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Harvard and Deluxe Builds - My first TDPRI Journal

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by gabasa, Nov 27, 2020.

  1. DD2016

    DD2016 TDPRI Member

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    Gosh, what a nice build!

    I've been wanting to try the Miflex copper foils. In the past Mundorf Supremes were tried and then pulled for Jensen copper foils and there is a notable difference in the density or solidness of sound and a bit more clarity without losing warmth.

    I have been looking over the Jupiter copper foils to do a coupling cap swap for the last few months and those are quite expensive, but the Miflex coppers are much more reasonable.

    For an amp that will get switched on every other day for twenty years, I look at the difference in experimenting with boutique caps as a couple missed, if not forgettable lattes.

    Would be very cool to hear one of these builds, especially the Harvard after hearing the nice 12" alnico speaker comparison you did with the champ build in that oversized cabinet. I picked up the Jupiter 10LA after hearing that alnico three way, which has been excellent!
     
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  2. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Harvard build: transformers with an added choke. This L-bracket fits perfectly.
    The bolts need tightening, so I'll straighten out the choke at that point....it's a hair crooked.

    You can see I had to drill new holes for the OT to make room for the choke. I had to move it over around 3/4".

    Harvard Transformers.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
  3. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Hey @DD2016, thanks for the kind words. Yeah, in the Starbucks generation of millennials, the extra cap cost is a few days worth of lattes, lol. These caps are currently 25% off at PartsConnexion so I thought why not try them out because they're fantastic in my Champ.

    I'll definitely post some sound clips over the Christmas break. Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
  4. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    The Harvard and 1x10 Deluxe are for a practice/recording/media room my kids are putting together. I sold off a bunch of gear lately on Kijiji so I thought I'd build myself a Harvard also. The cabs are done ahead of schedule, but they look quite nice. Can't wait to get these up and running.

    No more amp building for a long time after this.....

    Harvard Cabs.jpg
     
  5. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    Gosh, those cabs look nice
     
  6. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Thanks, I totally fell in love with this amp, so I'm copying the look, other than the handle:
    https://www.fivestarguitars.com/products/57-deluxe-blonde-cel-crm-120v

    These were built by Veteran Guitar Cabinets in southern Ontario.
    A friend is putting one together also (we often do projects in tandem), but his cab will have a different look to it. I'll post a pic when it's ready, I think it'll look great too.
     
  7. Junior Little

    Junior Little Tele-Meister

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    Yea, suuurrrre...:lol:
     
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  8. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    After this, we'll have SEVEN builds in the house. Does the madness end at some point? ;)
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
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  9. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Here's the cab for a friend of mine's Harvard build, charcoal tweed tolex. I like it ... this cabinet builder does nice, clean work.

    110 Harvard Charocoal tweed 1.jpg
     
  10. mjcyates

    mjcyates Tele-Meister

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    uhh, sorry to say, NO
     
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  11. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Hey, I was wondering if anyone might be able to answer a question on heater wires. I have some Gavitt 18 gauge cloth wire I was thinking of using, but it's stranded. In theory, solid wire should be used because it's stiffer and apparently stiffer heater wire can make for a quieter amp. I've never used stranded for heater wires. Just wondering if you have, and if you've had success with it.

    Thanks.
     
  12. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    I wired the 5E3 board this evening. I still have some cleaning up to do, but I wanted to get it done because I'm picking up the cabs tomorrow.
    I left space for the choke to be wired in.
    This board doesn't have eyelets for the 68k input resistors, so they'll go right onto the jacks.

    5E3 Board.jpg
     
  13. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's

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    I hope you don't have any troubleshooting or sketchy solder joints anywhere under those caps.
     
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  14. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Yeah, I was thinking about that tonight. Once I've gone through and triple checked the wiring, I'll go through the joints one-by-one slowly.

    It's a bit tougher to fit everything in than I thought, but it should work out ... I'm thinking of laying the heater wires against the inner corner of the chassis to keep them further away from the caps and reduce clutter.
     
  15. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's

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    I had to look up those caps again. Their operating range is up to 158 degrees F - in comparison Orange Drops are 185 degrees and Mallory are 185-250 degrees depending on voltage. Depending on your PT - I'm not familiar with the numbers on it - I'm not saying they are just going to die in the first year or anything, but they may be prone to drift quicker than most because the inside of that chassis easily gets to the 125-150 degree range. I have an infrared thermometer I'll use occasionally, and depending on how hard the PT is working, it can surprise you how hot it gets inside.

    From a post earlier this year about a Mojotone 5e3 kit. https://www.tdpri.com/threads/5e3-pt-current-rating-b.1031690/#post-9913447

    Everything mounted in the cabinet, it's been turned on and playing music at a comfortable level for about an hour. Infrared thermometer has 145 degrees as the hottest point I scanned on the part outside the chassis. Took the panel off and the PT was 155 and the back wall of the chassis was 160! Filter caps were all in the 130 degree range.
    And that was just using it clean as a shop radio, not overdriving it and stressing anything. I'm not trying to pick on the caps, but for the cost, size, and temperature rating, unless you just hear something like you've never heard before when it's done, it might be worth checking into some that are more common and easier to work with in the future.
     
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  16. jmp81sc

    jmp81sc Tele-Meister

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    I'm no expert, but stranded vs solid I think is more about keeping the wire where you want it to stay. Solid keeps a bend better but is more brittle. Stranded is harder to mold in place but more flexible. I like solid core myself, but I have had a few break during installation if I was a little too aggressive during stripping or if I was too abrupt bending it.
     
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  17. jchabalk

    jchabalk Tele-Holic

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    For heater wire i kind of prefer solid core mostly just because getting 2 pieces of stranded wire into a 9-pin socket tab can be a pita. i recently did a build using stranded for the first time and it turned out great, just 20 gauge though, if i was using something thicker i think it could have been trouble with the heaters.
     
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  18. NTC

    NTC Tele-Meister

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    Isn't it hard to make s twisted pair of wires with solid core wire?
     
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  19. Mark the Moose

    Mark the Moose Tele-Afflicted

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    Use a drill on low speed.
     
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  20. gabasa

    gabasa Tele-Meister

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    Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions, I appreciate it all. I guess I'll try the stranded Gavitt wire, it'll keep me from having to order anything.

    @jsnwhite619 I don't like the size of the caps at all, but I already bought them underestimating just how huge they are. You live, you learn, I guess; I was way too trigger-happy ordering parts on the internet a couple of weeks ago.

    I don't have an infared thermometer, but I have access to one at work. A few years ago I did a similar test on my 5E3 because I wanted to be able to directly measure chassis and coupling cap temperature. I was getting numbers in the high 120s and low 130s directly on the cap bodies, placing these in a climate around 25 degrees below a conservatively rated max temp. I plan on pushing the chassis forward a little to let the heat rise and dissipate continuously through the gap, so it doesn't get trapped inside and buildup the way it normally does in a tweed amp. I'm crossing my fingers it'll all be good. Wish me luck and I'll post followups. :)
     
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