I've got a USACG alder body with a relic nitro finish, and I'm considering adding a forearm contour due to pesky tendonitis issues. I don't really care about the resulting bare wood, but I also don't really think I need a full Strat-size contour--just enough to smooth out the top front body edge. Is this something an amateur can do with sandpaper and elbow grease, or would it take forever? Any tips on paper grit, etc., appreciated.
Hand-Sanding a Forearm Contour?
- Thread starter Hoodster
- Start date
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Scooby Snax
Friend of Leo's
It ain't a sandpaper job, unless you have a case of sand paper.
It would be easier with a rasp, then sand it smooth.
It would be easier with a rasp, then sand it smooth.
If you glue a sheet of 40 grit to a board and use it as a rasp, you can remove a surprising amount of wood in a hurry. Work your way up through 320 or so, and you'll be good.
I rough out forearm and back contours with a right angle grinder with a flap disk on it. Quick, yet brutal!
Here's a nice tutorial from Ron Kirn:
(link removed)
I rough out forearm and back contours with a right angle grinder with a flap disk on it. Quick, yet brutal!
Here's a nice tutorial from Ron Kirn:
(link removed)
this is all you need...
. a lot less than a Strat has....just round it off to soften the hard edge..... and don't go too far onto the flats...
I took most of the roll off with my "post rig" face sander...then block sanded it to feather it in...
. a lot less than a Strat has....just round it off to soften the hard edge..... and don't go too far onto the flats...
I took most of the roll off with my "post rig" face sander...then block sanded it to feather it in...
Attachments
shinigami747
Tele-Holic
Use a rasp to shape the main contour.
Use sandpaper (I forgot which grit I used) to smoothen the roughed out portion.
If painting it is not a priority and you don't mind the unfinished look, you could use tru-oil to add some degree of protection.
I don't have a pic of my guitar that I modified (butchered?) using the above steps. Will post a pic when I get the time.
edit: IIRC, I took a bit less than an hour to get the shaping done.
Use sandpaper (I forgot which grit I used) to smoothen the roughed out portion.
If painting it is not a priority and you don't mind the unfinished look, you could use tru-oil to add some degree of protection.
I don't have a pic of my guitar that I modified (butchered?) using the above steps. Will post a pic when I get the time.
edit: IIRC, I took a bit less than an hour to get the shaping done.
Last edited:
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
Hand sanding a forearm contour?
Do not sand your forearm!
I used a drum sander with 40 grit, vicious. ~6-in dia x ~4-in Foam drum (takes sanding belts) on high-speed mains electric drill, it needs the power. Make sure drill does not clog or overheat. That roughs it out nicely, you can get good control of shape. I have rasps but this works better. Obviously go over lightly with finer 120 grit and then hand sand to finish. Dust everywhere, you might want to think about breathing.
Black & Decker "Cushion Drum Sander" uses 65x410 belts
image removed
Do not sand your forearm!
I used a drum sander with 40 grit, vicious. ~6-in dia x ~4-in Foam drum (takes sanding belts) on high-speed mains electric drill, it needs the power. Make sure drill does not clog or overheat. That roughs it out nicely, you can get good control of shape. I have rasps but this works better. Obviously go over lightly with finer 120 grit and then hand sand to finish. Dust everywhere, you might want to think about breathing.
Black & Decker "Cushion Drum Sander" uses 65x410 belts
image removed
funkymann1
Tele-Holic
go to harbor freight & buy a angle grinder & buy a 36 grit flap disc, you can get both for only 20 bucks & get the job done in 10 minutes, sand it down as low as you want, then use a 60 grit orbital sander all the way up to a 220, tape off the area thats not being touched very well since this is a guitar that already has been built up....
OR go to the Grange Co-op & get yerself a farrier's rasp. It will also do the job in 10 minutes.
Clinchriver
Tele-Meister
Random orbit sander, 50 grit to do the bulk of the work, then up through the grits to 220 for a perfect job. Best thing I ever did to my tele.
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
You'll be there all day with the random-orbit, and the 22,000rpm angle-grinder is far too vicious. The variable speed sander/polisher disc is a better bet but a disc doesn't cut the right shape for you. I've got those tools too :[
dbickford
Tele-Afflicted
Ditto on the grinder with a flap disc. Don't forget a dust mask and eye protection, because the dust is gonna fly!
sean79
Poster Extraordinaire
Your process might depend on what tools you have - or what tools you want to buy. I cut contours into a slab body over the summer. I bought a big rasp - that thing was cheap and it made quick work of the contour. I cleaned it up with a random orbital sander and some hand-sanding. I've seen people start with a band saw or reciprocating saw, but those take big bites and make me nervous.
take a look around post #5...
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/112065-lets-do-sharp-dressed-strat.html
Ron Kirn
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/112065-lets-do-sharp-dressed-strat.html
Ron Kirn
Luthier Atlanta
Tele-Afflicted
Wood Rasp, Belts Sander, Grinder or cave man style. Flat course rock progressively getting smoother.
PumpJockey
Friend of Leo's
Another vote for Post #5.
I inherited a bunch of old school woodworking tools from my grandfather who, when he wasn't being a doctor and a surgeon, unwound by building furniture. He had a collection of rasps with different sized teeth and, depending on the softness of the wood and my patience, one or another does the job in 15 minutes. Then sand it down starting with 60 grit.
Everyone seems to start by thinking there is a modern power tool that will do the job, but you soon realize that simple hand tools exist for a reason and they have centuries of evolution going for them.
I inherited a bunch of old school woodworking tools from my grandfather who, when he wasn't being a doctor and a surgeon, unwound by building furniture. He had a collection of rasps with different sized teeth and, depending on the softness of the wood and my patience, one or another does the job in 15 minutes. Then sand it down starting with 60 grit.
Everyone seems to start by thinking there is a modern power tool that will do the job, but you soon realize that simple hand tools exist for a reason and they have centuries of evolution going for them.
So you don't want to see how I do it on the jointer then.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-hom...angled-into-building-strat-8.html#post3084480
plankmonger
Tele-Meister
I use a jig to hold the body upright but on an angle, clamp body to it, and then use a spindle sander
With a fence clamped to the deck. 20 minute job.
You do have reposition the fence naturally.
With a fence clamped to the deck. 20 minute job.
You do have reposition the fence naturally.
Brian Wilson
Tele-Meister
Wow, thanks for all the great posts!
I'm definitely down with the old-school methods and will look into the rasp options. Are there different types of farrier's rasps, or if I buy a woodworking rasp, which one do I want?
Again, I'm not doing a full contour, just like what Trev pictured in post#4.
I'm definitely down with the old-school methods and will look into the rasp options. Are there different types of farrier's rasps, or if I buy a woodworking rasp, which one do I want?
Again, I'm not doing a full contour, just like what Trev pictured in post#4.
