Hand plane restoration

[philosofriend]

When I got a pair of very coarse and very fine diamond sharpening stones I learned that my previous methods of flattening things were nowhere as good as I thought. The diamond plates are 1/4 inch thick with the diamond dust attached by electroplated nickel. When you disassemble a plane there are a lot of parts that are supposed to be flat. The diamond stones can be used with water and dish soap to remove rust and dirt and start the sharpening process. This saves a lot of time. They are kind of expensive. You can use them to flatten traditional sharpening stones.

Once you get the inner parts of the plane clean, flat and oiled, it becomes much easier to adjust the plane to a very fine degree to best tackle the particular wood/grain issues of the job at hand.

 

[trapdoor2]

Believe it or not, the mouth doesn't matter as much as you'd think. If the blade is sharp, set up properly, and doesn't deflect, you're not going to get tearout or chatter even if the mouth is very wide. But a poorly setup blade has the capability of chattering a lot more, though. Sharpness rules everything.

Which is why I mentioned soft, straight grained wood for these two planes. In wild grain and in chippy, hardwood, you want to narrow the mouth opening. As has been said, "mouth opening doesn't matter, until it does".This is one reason the Bailey type of frog adjustment was important and the later Bedrock design is so popular.

It is a moot point with the Defiance planes as there is no such adjustability. These were made to be used by the handyman, not for fine joinery.

 

[Mongo Park]

Nice score, bringing a plan back to life is great fun and you end up with something usable.
Sharp blade and thin thin shavings and you will be happy.
Ignore the guy who is bragging about the price he can buy one. Can’t even read the question you asked

 

[novakane]

These are block planes which is something I think may be being overlooked on some replies - they're not smoothing planes or anything for doing big jobs on fine furniture. Common to find, dollar value is negligible but they're very useful to have, most contractors have always had one in a pocket and use them any time something needs to be trimmed a little to fit. Most of them have seen some "stuff" in their lifetime, I've seen many old ones caked in drywall and paint splatter with plenty of rust.

They're easy to get up and working again if the irons aren't too chipped up. Wet/Dry sandpaper spray glued to something solid and verified flat and then sand down the sole of the plane to get it flat. As was mentioned above, make sure it's assembled with the blade retracted. Rex Krueger (among others) has some videos about fixing used planes on YouTube that I have found helpful.
Wear a mask or respirator when sanding it down, you probably won't enjoy breathing metal dust.

If the blade is not too chipped up, get a sharpening set with a guide (look for one with a wide roller) and sharpen it up. Again, many ways to do this, Rex and others have good tutorials on YouTube.

If the iron is really chipped, you can still grind it back and put a new edge on it but it is a fair bit of work and may not be worth the trouble. Some people enjoy the effort and have the equipment to do that well, not me, but plenty of others. lol
You may be able to find replacement irons, just pay attention to any groove patterns or holes in the iron - not all use the same mounting methods.

But, hopefully they're still in good shape on yours... hard to tell from the photos but at least one of them looked to be useable.

 

[Bendyha]

As novakane mentions above, it is not a smoothing plane, so don't get too hung up on perfect flatness, the one I use most is purposely finished to be ever so slightly convex, for more control. Just make sure you avoid concave, otherwise it will not be able to set it finely, it will either float over the wood, or if the blade reaches past the convexity, it will grab. This is of course more of a problem with longer planes. Totally smooth bottom is also over-rated, as it will tend to stick to the surface and cause resistance to pushing, this is why I tend to flatten with a coarse abrasive. Avoid removing any more from the sole surface as is necessary; cast iron has the equivalent of a skin that is like surface hardening. Top quality planes are left to season after casting and initial flattening and tempering, as the inherent tensions must meet an equilibrium, and the bed will move, they will then be re-flattened, after which a new, but much smaller movement will take place. The whole seasoning process will take a complete year. If you remove much metal from the sole in the hope of getting it really flat, you will find that it won't stay that way long, making the venture senseless.
None-the-less, I quite like those simple block planes, and have a selection that are regularly used. I also quite like the warts and all used look of utility tools. I tend to file and round off any edges that contact my hand, with no respect for "original condition", I just want a tool I enjoy to hold, that works well. I have upgraded the blades on a few, the thicker irons make the mouth a bit smaller, and reduce not only the tendency to chatter, but stay sharper for far longer.

 

[tuuur]

Great thread! I am an absolute beginner in hand woodworking but love hand planes.
Got myself these three:

I think the two to the left are Stanley nr 4s and the right one is a Stanley Handyman 5 (or 6?).
The leftmost one needs restoring, the other two work but aren’t set up yet.

 

[58Bassman]

Thanks everyone! He actually got them both for $12 he said. Either way, I’m not really interested in the value or some resale hope, I’m simply interested in restoring an old made in the USA tool to working condition as a project in its own right. Probably better that they’re dirt cheap, if I ruin them or they’re too far gone there’s really no loss.

Will the vinegar eat the paint away I wonder? I have float glass, double stick some 80 grit sandblaster and go at it?

The Vinegar can work its way under the paint, so I would recommend going light on exposure. If you know anyone who preserves food, brews beer or makes wine, they probably have powdered Citric Acid- you can also buy this in the Kosher aisle of many grocery stores, as 'sour salt'. Mix a tablespoon in a quart of water and let them soak- the rust will dissolve, but don't leave them in it for more than a couple of hours because it can remove more than just the rust. Rinse with clean water, dry and put them someplace warm, so any water in the pores will dry.

I use a 15" square Granite tile for sharpening/flattening plane soles but float glass is the usual recommendation. I have used wet/dry sandpaper for this, going from 80 grit to 400 grit if the casting is clean enough. I use wet/dry for sharpening plane irons/chisels, cleaning the sides (called 'cheeks') and anything that needs to be flat & smooth and for the irons, I make sure the end of the iron is square, then use a sharpening gauge to make the bevel match the edge. I start with Emery cloth if a lot of metal needs to be removed, but a grinder can be used if it's really bad- make sure to avoid heating the edge because it will lose its temper and won't hold an edge.

I go to 12,000 grit for the final sharpening and for removing the burr. At that point, it's sharp enough to shave my arm hair.

Give it a few coats of paste wax, for protection against future rust but make sure it doesn't contain Silicone. To make these slide on the wood better, you can rub a candle on the sole.

The paint may come off and if it does and if you want to make them look new(er), I think I would use Rustoleum/s Rust Reformer spray paint or start with an etching primer but any good primer will work. The original paint on the older planes is called 'Japanning' and it's more difficult to apply.

 

[NewTimerJH]

The Vinegar can work its way under the paint, so I would recommend going light on exposure. If you know anyone who preserves food, brews beer or makes wine, they probably have powdered Citric Acid- you can also buy this in the Kosher aisle of many grocery stores, as 'sour salt'. Mix a tablespoon in a quart of water and let them soak- the rust will dissolve, but don't leave them in it for more than a couple of hours because it can remove more than just the rust. Rinse with clean water, dry and put them someplace warm, so any water in the pores will dry.

I use a 15" square Granite tile for sharpening/flattening plane soles but float glass is the usual recommendation. I have used wet/dry sandpaper for this, going from 80 grit to 400 grit if the casting is clean enough. I use wet/dry for sharpening plane irons/chisels, cleaning the sides (called 'cheeks') and anything that needs to be flat & smooth and for the irons, I make sure the end of the iron is square, then use a sharpening gauge to make the bevel match the edge. I start with Emery cloth if a lot of metal needs to be removed, but a grinder can be used if it's really bad- make sure to avoid heating the edge because it will lose its temper and won't hold an edge.

I go to 12,000 grit for the final sharpening and for removing the burr. At that point, it's sharp enough to shave my arm hair.

Give it a few coats of paste wax, for protection against future rust but make sure it doesn't contain Silicone. To make these slide on the wood better, you can rub a candle on the sole.

The paint may come off and if it does and if you want to make them look new(er), I think I would use Rustoleum/s Rust Reformer spray paint or start with an etching primer but any good primer will work. The original paint on the older planes is called 'Japanning' and it's more difficult to apply.

Thanks a ton for the info. It’s great to get different recommendations from the hivemind, and explore the best process for yourself by hearing of other’s. Unfortunately this project will likely be on the back burner for a bit, I have a guitar build that’s getting my focus right now. I’ll probably work on this between builds.

 

[58Bassman]

Thanks a ton for the info. It’s great to get different recommendations from the hivemind, and explore the best process for yourself by hearing of other’s. Unfortunately this project will likely be on the back burner for a bit, I have a guitar build that’s getting my focus right now. I’ll probably work on this between builds.

Here's a site that has a lot of info about different hand planes and other tools- I used to be a member of the Knots Forum that was sponsored by Taunton Press and found this site, as well as others. If you search for 'hand plane restoration', you'll fine everything you need, and more.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #1 - #8

 

[bobio]

Here's a site that has a lot of info about different hand planes and other tools- I used to be a member of the Knots Forum that was sponsored by Taunton Press and found this site, as well as others. If you search for 'hand plane restoration', you'll fine everything you need, and more.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #1 - #8

Along those lines, here is a great Youtube channel. Michael has done multiple videos on typing hand planes based on the published Type Studies. There are countless videos of extremely useful information!

https://www.youtube.com/@justplanefun

Here is another channel on restoring Stanley hand planes. It is not active anymore, but the information already there is invaluable!

https://www.youtube.com/@planecollector8753

There are countless other Youtube channels on restoration, these are a couple of my faves.

There are also several groups on Facebook worth checking out, here are a few of my faves.

Stanley Wood Plane Restoring

Just Plane Fun - the parts division

CAN I HAVE IT Vintage Tool Auction and Sales Group

 

[Monoprice99]

I ended up with a BuckBros C2 (6 1/2 inch with 1 9/16 width blade. Rebadged GreatNeck Chinese manufacture from the Home Depot for $ 17 & change.

 

[58Bassman]

Along those lines, here is a great Youtube channel. Michael has done multiple videos on typing hand planes based on the published Type Studies. There are countless videos of extremely useful information!

https://www.youtube.com/@justplanefun

Here is another channel on restoring Stanley hand planes. It is not active anymore, but the information already there is invaluable!

https://www.youtube.com/@planecollector8753

There are countless other Youtube channels on restoration, these are a couple of my faves.

There are also several groups on Facebook worth checking out, here are a few of my faves.

Stanley Wood Plane Restoring

Just Plane Fun - the parts division

CAN I HAVE IT Vintage Tool Auction and Sales Group

Have you seen any of the custom plane makers' offerings? When I was on the Knots Forum, one of them was a contributor and he's not only a woodworker, he also has a machine shop- the planes he produces almost look too good to use, but he wants people to, rather than letting them sit on a shelf or in a display case,

Interview With Plane Maker Philip Marcou - Handplane Central

Many woodworkers are aware of the more well known contemporary planemakers such as Tom Lie-Nielsen, John Economaki and Karl Holtey – but what about the makers who are just starting out? Will some of these be added to the list of household names (amongst woodworkers)...Continue Reading...

www.handplane.com

Marcou Chamfer Plane - Australian Wood Review

'Made by New Zealand planemaker Philip Marcou, this plane is esoteric as it only cuts chamfers and this suits my style of work well', writes Vic Tesolin.

www.woodreview.com.au

 

[maxvintage]

Apologies for reviving an old thread. I was just up in Maine and went to visit the Lie Nielsen tool works, which specializes in high precision planes and other hand tools. Was trying to avoid checking luggage on the flight back, but got a spokeshave and a "violin maker's plane." Now I need to make a violin I guess

I'm probably going to buy a #4 from Lie-Nielsen eventually. A friend in Maine, a cabinet maker, swears by their planes. But man are they spendy


But the trip put me in mind to tune up a couple old Stanley planes, a #4 and a #5 1/2. It's a good bit of work. The 4 is a type 17, from WWII, and belonged to the father of a friend who was a ship's carpenter in NYC. It's in pretty good shape but the 5 1/2 is rough. It will serve as a jack plane so no need for super high precision, but I need a screw for the front knob. Brass, slotted cap head I think

 

[Mongo Park]

I soak all the non wood parts, unless it has chrome on it, in citric acid,( from the bulk food store) and then scrub off the grey with a plastic pot scrubber. Cheap and non toxic.

 

[Flaneur]

 

[maxvintage]

When I went to Lie Nielsen recently I also bought a spokshave. More than 15 years ago I bought a Record 151 spokeshave, made in England, it said, and it was maybe the worst tool I ever owned. It always chattered in the cut, so it would take out big chunks and get stuck, not matter how sharp the blade or how thin the cut. The throat would also clog constantly, like almost on every pass. Just terrible. I threw it on a high shelf and basically forgot about it.

Then when I tried the LN spokeshave it was an aha moment--wow, this is how a spokeshave is supposed to work.

So I went back and took that now somewhat rusty Record apart to see if I could fix it. Compared to when I bought it, there are now lots of sites in the web describing how to tune a spokeshave. The sole was not even in the ball park of flat, so I ground that to closer to flat. The lever cap was terrible, not making solid contact with the blade. I could see light and big gaps. The front of the cap iron was uneven and too round, which is why it clogged all the time. So i ground that flat on the back and in the front, putting a little angle on it. Did all this pretty roughly

And now it actually works, like a spokeshave. Not nearly as well as the LN, but it does what it's supposed to. I'm pretty sure if I spent some time refining the grind, working on the bed for the blade, and maybe smoothing the throat I could get it to work better.

A couple lessons in this, for me:

1. Modern production Record tools are probably garbage out of the box. This tool was sloppily made and worse than useless when I got it. It's worth it to spend the extra money on a tool that will actually work from the start

2. Its possible to improve a shoddily made tool if you have to

 

[RLangham98]

Yeah I don’t think 12 is a bad price for those. Right now, and I mean before tariffs, if you went to harbor freight and tried to buy a jack plane from China that needs a ton of work to be usable, you’d pay more than 12.

As someone who’s been paying a lot of attention to antique hand tools recently, I’ll tell you what I’ve seen: at least as far as flea markets and antique stores in MS, Stanley of any age is generally going for 20-30 these days. No name stuff or some lesser brands, 15-20. Maybe $5-10 less for small finish planes, $5-10 more for big scrub planes. A good metal trying plane from Stanley (I.e., 10” or more) will be at least 50.

With wooden planes it goes up from there. Antique dealers like to call wooden planes “early American” regardless of their time and place of manufacture. A complete wooden jack plane is rare, a lot of them are missing the iron and still go for 20 or more. A wooden scrub plane will be 30 if it’s missing the iron, 60 if complete. 60 is about the floor for a wooden trying plane, especially very long ones for doing the edges of big lumber. There’s a premium for wooden planes that have a relief for the handle routed into the block, and for ones that have the style of handle they call “German.”

And don’t get me started on spokeshaves. They’re way overpriced right now.

So no, you’re not in bad shape at all, look up Rex Krueger on YouTube and he’ll tell you the straight answer on restoring and sharpening, debunks a lot of the popular myths.

 

[gentrywhite]

Yes, new tools (and some old ones) are basically a kit or collection of parts requiring a fair bit of fettling to perform well. It’s similar to new guitars, inexpensive instruments typically take more setup than higher end ones.

 

[telemnemonics]

I’ve been cleaning tuning and making a living with old Stanley planes for 50 years and never used chemicals to remove rust.
Never painted them either.
Never used those training wheels for sharpening!
Kids today!
My faves used to be the late 1800s iron which had more delicate castings but no angle adjust on the bench planes.
Older is better but the angle lever is better and not older.
Cool stuff, fantastic to use tools so old and there being no improved versions yet.

 

[THX1139]

Cool thread. When we bought our current house the owner left a bunch of his dad's tools in the basement. Bunch of files, old table saw, etc. This post made me remember there were 2 or three planes in one of the vintage tool boxes. Just went down there and found 2 mid 20th century Stanley block planes, a 12-24 and a 220. Both in decent condition and looks like they could be revived. Think there might be a bigger smoothing one lurking in there as well, so I'll do some digging.