Guitar Case Repair Help

[Stringbanger]

Case builders or case repair guys, can you help me out here?

As you can see by the pic below, the latch is gone. The problem is that it’s riveted. I have a new replacement latch, which is the screw on type.

I don’t want to just pry the old one out with a screwdriver, because that will probably enlarge the holes, and make it difficult to install the new latch.

Do I drill out the rivets? Comments welcome.

 

[String Tree]

Case builders or case repair guys, can you help me out here?

As you can see by the pic below, the latch is gone. The problem is that it’s riveted. I have a new replacement latch, which is the screw on type.

I don’t want to just pry the old one out with a screwdriver, because that will probably enlarge the holes, and make it difficult to install the new latch.

Do I drill out the rivets? Comments welcome.View attachment 1203189View attachment 1203190

Drill them out.

 

[lucius Mojo]

Use a center punch and hammer so that the drill bit will be centered and not "walk"causing damage to the old case.

 

[telestratosonic]

Drill or file.

 

[PhoenixBill]

A Dremel works nicely too.

 

[Wally]

Pull the case lining away from the inside walls and drill.
I would go back with rivets. I would also age the new latch as much as possible before installing it.

 

[Boreas]

Is that the only latch on the case? If the case has other latches that work OK, I would seriously consider NOT replacing it unless you can match it with something period correct with similar patina. That case is really cool as-is, and if the case stays closed with other latches, I wouldn't mess with it.

 

[Wally]

Is that the only latch on the case? If the case has other latches that work OK, I would seriously consider NOT replacing it unless you can match it with something period correct with similar patina. That case is really cool as-is, and if the case stays closed with other latches, I wouldn't mess with it.

Agreed. Put a worn leather belt with an aged brass buckle around the case and carry on.

 

[stxrus]

Forgive the crappy pic

I’m rearranging my office, music room, catch-all so stuff is jammed into closets.
My non-Fender tele case one hasp that doesn’t close enough to be fully secure and the spring latch may or may not latch securely.
I took a piece of 1” nylon strap and plastic quick release. It secures the case nicely and cost less than $3.00.

I also learned, in 4th grade band class, to always carry an instrument with the lid facing your body. In the event of a latch/hasp catastrophic failure the instrument has a chance of surviving.

 

[Boreas]

Forgive the crappy pic
View attachment 1203327
I’m rearranging my office, music room, catch-all so stuff is jammed into closets.
My non-Fender tele case one hasp that doesn’t close enough to be fully secure and the spring latch may or may not latch securely.
I took a piece of 1” nylon strap and plastic quick release. It secures the case nicely and cost less than $3.00.

I also learned, in 4th grade band class, to always carry an instrument with the lid facing your body. In the event of a latch/hasp catastrophic failure the instrument has a chance of surviving.

Carrying a sousaphone case sucked. If it popped open, serious injury would likely ensue...

 

[Marc Morfei]

I just did this on a case of mine. I left the old broken latches and mounted the new ones right alongside. It’s fine. New latches are screw-in.

 

[Midgetje94]

Pull the case lining away from the inside walls and drill.
I would go back with rivets. I would also age the new latch as much as possible before installing it.

Naa. Leave that latch new! Or try to find one that generally matches.

I get the appeal of trying to age match it. But it’s a new latch. It shows the case has outlasted the parts. Rock the new one.

1. Shows the quality
2. Tells its story.

Amputees get their prosthetics decked out in cool hot rod colors and cool designs. They don’t get it painted skin tone! They rock their story!

My take at least

 

[prairietelecaster]

If you are going to use a screw on replacement that uses small wood screws, and not using rivets either, then consider using shorter T-Nuts and bolts on the new latch instead of the screws. If the wood around the old rivet holes is a bit large or mushy for the screws, the footprint of the T-nut flange covers a greater area. T-Nut flanges also hide nicely under the lining like the rivets do. This will not look period correct but works great. If you age the replacement parts as Wally said, T-Nuts might not be that noticeable.
Any latches and handles I've replaced in the last few years I've been happy with the T-Nut approach.
Of course a rivet with an appropriate sized washer can also solve the mushy hole problem. I think I have also used a thin metal strip drilled for rivets hidden under the lining to account for a hole and weakened wood problem.
Blah Blah Etc. Have fun.
Edit add: I have also done what Marc Morfei says. This is the best fast solution too! Thanks Marc!

 

[Stringbanger]

Pull the case lining away from the inside walls and drill.
I would go back with rivets. I would also age the new latch as much as possible before installing it.

Age the new latch? How would I do that?
Soak it in vinegar?

I’m am more concerned about functionality over aesthetics, but that sounds interesting.

 

[netgear69]

Most of these old cases have split rivets if that is what is on here get a flathead under the 2 splits shafts lift them get a pair of pliers flatten them together and pull it out

 

[schmee]

Most of these old cases have split rivets if that is what is on here get a flathead under the 2 splits shafts lift them get a pair of pliers flatten them together and pull it out

This^ may be what you have:


If you need to drill them out, center punch them accurately and use a sharp new drill. You are still going to have to pull the lining back to remove. I'd rivet again also probably. but nice flat truss head machine screws would be OK. Do not use wood screws,
You might find these short enough to work: "blind screw post": Amazon, Ace Hardware etc


I'd lean toward a strap as others mentioned if the other two latches work well, to preserve that great old case.

Have you considered buying a similar latch and just taking the "pull down" hoop off it and putting it one the existing one? Could that be done? I'm sure the metal is bendable to remove and replace....

 

[PhoenixBill]

For steel parts, I have aged them (turned them black) using cold gun bluing. This even works on zinc -plated fasteners.

 

[Peegoo]

Those types of rivets, I remove them by grinding out the center of the rivet head with a carbide burr in a Foredom or Dremel. The heads fall off and the latch lifts off. I push the rest of the rivet into the case.

If that were my case to repair, I'd cruise the Junque Shops for an old valise or other small luggage item with the same latches. Instead of replacing the entire latch, I'd cannibalize the drawbar and bail (the wire loop) from the Junque latch.

 

[Marc Morfei]

I just did this on a case of mine. I left the old broken latches and mounted the new ones right alongside. It’s fine. New latches are screw-in.

Here’s how mine turned out. I used wood screws. Had to experiment with screws to find the exact right length.

 

[tubedude]

For steel parts, I have aged them (turned them black) using cold gun bluing. This even works on zinc -plated fasteners.

A bath in ferric chloride will get the oxidation going. More brownish rust than black, but after a good base, rubbing with a little oil it looks like well aged rust.