A tele is naturally very well shielded, and you also have shielding paint, I myself would not add more, you are basically making a faraday cage, just know that a faraday cage can, In some instances cut high end, now if you have a bright guitar, that may be helpful, if an already warm guitar, I would avoid it, I have zero extra shielding in any of my teles, and no noise issues. Other than ya they are single coils so…..another trick to shielding, is shielding the pickup coil itself, Srv’s number one was like that, copper tape around the coil, ran to the ground eyelet on the pickup. Of corse I would insulate the coil first with tape.
the only reason one would burn up a pot, is that they are using an iron with not enough wattage, throw away that 20 watt, $20 iron, it is making this way more harder than it need to be, it not heat settings that burn up pots, it’s dwell time, and to reduce dwell time, you need wattage, a $99 hakko station will last a lifetime, and not burn up pots…I used one for 15 years, it still works fine, but went to the garage for auto, hot rod, and bike duty.
a good iron makes this a joy, a bad one? Not so much. a hakko station will solder pots perfectly, no extra flux or need of sanding the pot down because it has enough wattage.
I now use an expensive metcal station, it does not even have a temperature control. It solders pots and large ground planes as fast as a resistor lead.
most all component white sheets list max dwell time, not heat ranges.
they are very different.
one other thing, is I use rosin core Kessler solder. That contains led, the lead free stuff is junk, takes more heat, is more brittle, and has very narrow flow range. major industries have been forced to use it, you do not have to..leaded solder is more forgiving, more easygoing to work with , and the joint is flat out out better long term.
I say this because if you have issues soldering to pots a perfect storm is a bad iron and lead free solder.
a person told me these exact same things, a good iron, changed everything.
that lead to amp building, mic building, mic preamp building….and on and on…
thanks for the wiring complements, but I am really just copying what the fender girls in the 50s did, monkey see, monkey do….lol
IME, a little bit of Flux paste dabbed on the back of the pot makes the solder stick almost instantly in most cases. Doesn't matter if you use a 25w Weller ice pick-style soldering iron or a 300w Weller soldering gun. I've used both. With & without Flux.
Once you have the solder on the case, you wet the tip again, preaolder the wires, and pretty much as soon as you touch it, the solder on the wires will melt onto the pot and combine with what's already on the pot. And you're done.
A $5-10 can of Flux paste does wonders for soldering and will keep you from ever burning up pots as long as you actually use it. I actually have paste and 2 different types of liquid flux in bottles with precision applicator needle tips that I use more than the paste.