going back to originals and shielding

Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by teleplayer99, May 14, 2021.

  1. teleplayer99

    teleplayer99 Tele-Meister

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    Where would you shield. I have thought of under pups and the cavities with and overlap of the copper. What about under pots input jack and pickguard? Any where else. I have plenty of copper and enthusiasm. Liked gen 4 noiseless, but want guitar to be original. I mean what tele has a hand-rubbed nitro finish? Its just another fender limited run, but its mine and a keeper.
     
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  2. Killing Floor

    Killing Floor Friend of Leo's

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    I do all the cavities I can reach. I do the underside of the pick guard. And I connect the shielding to ground. I normally use copper tape. I don’t know if that’s best.
     
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  3. myteleplaysjazz

    myteleplaysjazz Tele-Holic

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    Yep. Plus one.
     
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  4. Fendereedo

    Fendereedo Poster Extraordinaire

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    Cavities with copper tape, and under the pickguard. I once tried a paint that was water based, and it just sat there in pools, and ran off the cavity walls. Never making that mistake again.
     
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  5. Bongoslade

    Bongoslade Tele-Meister

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    i was wondering myself
    do you guys cut a paper a template to see how it fits - or just wing it and solder it together where it's spotty?
     
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  6. RLee77

    RLee77 Friend of Leo's

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    Use strips that lay down flat, don’t try to cut one piece and mold it in, it will bunch up. Use a bit of solder to connect the strips, don’t rely on conductive adhesive. Copper tape solders very easily. Oh and take care trimming the excess foil — I put a scratch on my body finish with the exacto.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2021
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  7. RLee77

    RLee77 Friend of Leo's

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    I do the neck cavity, and control cavity, but not the pickguard, and my tele is very quiet.
     
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  8. Wallaby

    Wallaby Friend of Leo's

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    This works for me -

    If your tape is wide ( I use 3" aluminum tape from Home Depot ) you can use the tape itself instead of making a template by positioning the tape over the portion of whatever cavity you're working on and pressing along the edge to create an impression on the tape, and then cutting along the impression line with scissors to get an exact fit.

    For curves like a cavity wall I make small snips along the edge ( sort of like kerfing ) to allow the tape to overlap onto the bottom of the cavity without bunching or wrinkling. If you do the cavity walls first the piece covering the bottom of the cavity will lay over the "kerf" edge of the wall piece and hide them for a neater appearance.

    Using the widest possible tape allows you to use the fewest pieces - for a Tele control cavity I'd use two pieces - one for the entire cavity wall and one for the bottom, with the bottom piece hiding the bottom edge of the wall piece.

    Aluminum doesn't solder ( at least for me! ) so a small folded-over piece of tape in a strategic area will provide electrical continuity.

    Careful work around holes with an X-Acto knife here and there, too, help avoid that "smashed-together" appearance.
     
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  9. myteleplaysjazz

    myteleplaysjazz Tele-Holic

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    I make a tracing from the top of the cavity, then cut the copper tape just a little bit bigger. I want the tape to sort of "crawl" up the side of the cavity about an 1/8 inch or so. This gives me a good overlap when applying to the side. Then, just to make sure I have on a belt and suspenders, I'll put a spot solder joint at seam.
    I say "tape" but its really a sheet. And the copper sheet should have conductive adhesive on it. StewMac makes the perfect product.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2021
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  10. TheMicster

    TheMicster TDPRI Member

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    Do you find that the conductive adhesive fails after a certain time or is just not reliable?
     
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  11. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Some people say yes, but not in my experience. If you want, just flow some solder at the overlap points.
     
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  12. DavidP

    DavidP Friend of Leo's

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    Consider getting a 1 foot square of copper shielding. I prefer that to tape as I can custom cut it to completely cover cavity bottoms. I align the sheet over the respective cavity, gently press to get an outline and then cut with a 1/4 inch outside overlap so it extends up the sides a little. It can be a little delicate (and frustrating) to insert but patience pays off! And after I do the sides, I'll tack a dab of solder on the overlaps, regardless if it's conductive adhesive to ensure continuity no matter what.
    Here's a finished job on a strat.
    IMG_0015.JPG
     
  13. myteleplaysjazz

    myteleplaysjazz Tele-Holic

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    I have never had conductive adhesive fail, but I do spot solder the joints - maybe that's why???
     
  14. RLee77

    RLee77 Friend of Leo's

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    I measured resistance at several points over several days, and found it varied quite a bit. Probably fine, but since the copper is extremely easy to spot solder, why not remove all doubt.
     
  15. noname_dragon

    noname_dragon Tele-Holic

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    Does the shielding change the tone of the output sound?
     
  16. jayroc1

    jayroc1 Tele-Meister

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    I've heard the input jack route doesn't need shielding
     
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  17. RLee77

    RLee77 Friend of Leo's

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    Some say yes; others no. I haven’t experimented with it yet; I may on my current tele build. It’s the sort of experiment that needs careful setup and procedure to be meaningful.
    I tend to think it makes a slight difference, but nothing that a little tweaking of your tone controls can’t correct.
     
  18. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I usually use shielded cable to the jack. If not, I twist them. Can't hurt.
     
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  19. DavidP

    DavidP Friend of Leo's

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    Heads up -- if you do shield the input jack, you should check that the jack tip does not contact the shield when a cord is plugged in, or you'll short out the connection! If I do shield that area, I'll also put a piece of electrical tape on the outer side of the jack tip, as preventive maintenance.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2021
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  20. AAT65

    AAT65 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I think shielded cable to the jack is a better option than trying to shield in there: simpler and if anything more effective.
     
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