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Glarry Thinline Project - wiring, ground hum issues and then no volume?

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by GrooveVoyager1, Apr 13, 2021.

  1. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Hi folks, I'm in need of some tech help due to wiring issues:
    I purchased a Glarry GTL Thinline(HB/SC) for a project.
    I pretty much replaced everything, tuners, pups, and bridge/saddle but kept the stock Control plate and jack.
    Soldering went well for the pups besides a loose ground causing hum on the neck pup that I resoldered and resolved. New pups sounded great.
    The stock output jack was loose and jangly even when tightened so I ordered a switchcraft 11 to replace.
    I unsoldered the connections from the old jack and soldered the new jack.
    I plugged in and there was a loud hum present when I touched the strings and the red wire which I thought was hot(almost a reverse ground hum issue).
    For some reason red wire had a piece of tape on it???
    I inspected the wiring and Glarry had wired red from the volume pot(ground) to output jack and black from the middle lug of the volume pot to the jack.
    I unsoldered red and black, placing black to volume pot and red to middle lug and soldered to appropriate jack lugs.
    First time plugged in - same ground hum.
    I re-soldered second time due to some ground wire strands and possible cold solder issues and plugged in again.
    I checked the volume and switches and on all all 3 pup settings there was little to no volume.
    I thought the switchcraft jack may be faulty so I replaced with the original jangly Glarry jack and same issue when plugged in.
    Not sure what's going on as all I did was replace an output jack?
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated on what's going on?
    I uploaded pics of the current wiring.

    PS: I'm tempted to purchase a pre wired control plate with superior parts due to the inferior Glarry electronics and start from scratch as I'm not sure the stock Glarry electronics are affording me the best tone with my new pups.
     

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  2. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    They will either work or they won't. Expensive pots and switches don't necessarily sound better than cheaper stuff. The plus for quality stuff is durability. Emerson wiring harnesses are so overpriced it's hilarious.

    Any time you find tape on guitar wiring--it's a glaring clue that the last person in there was an amateur.

    Stick with the parts you have for now, and get it all working correctly since you're new at this. Buying new stuff and wiring it all up the wrong way won't do anything but empty your wallet and waste your time.

    BRAVO to you for being fearless and jumping right into this stuff! It's how we all learned it.



    Make sure your volume pot is wired like this:

    [​IMG]

    Also, look very closely at the solder tabs on the jack and make sure the ground wire is soldered to the sleeve contact and the hot (+) wire from the volume pot is soldered to the tip contact.
     
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  3. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thank so much for the advice and the simple diagram, I do want to work with what I've got for budget purposes and for reasons you described.
    I'm going to troubleshoot the issue again today. I went over the connections from the pics I took and inspected the wiring again this morning. Black from the Vpot is going to sleeve and red is going to tip.
    I originally thought it was a bad output jack but the same hum occurred on both new and stock Glarry jacks. So strange when I made sure of the correct path and resoldered that there is now low to no volume and the hum when touching strings and the red wire(maybe the tape was a flag for qc to check or replace due to problems?. Anyway, something is off so hopefully I can pinpoint the issue. Thanks again. I'll update when able.
     
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  4. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Sometimes you can damage a jack if too much heat is used to solder it. But I doubt this is the case.

    Often, a piece of tape on a wire is an indicator that the polarity has been switched. This could be a clue. But the red wire seems to be coming off of a lug, so it should be "hot".


    I do see something I don't like. I don't know if this is a kink or a melt from an errant soldering iron, but this wire may not have good continuity - check it out.
     

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  5. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

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    .

    Use a multi-meter to check the circuit.

    you seem to have a reversed ground or something is contacting the ground when assembled in the guitar.

    Once you find the problem, I'd replace the pair of wires to the jack with shielded cable to cut noise. Same reason we use shielded cable from the guitar to the amp.

    The meter can help you sort pots to push tone around later too.

    .
     
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  6. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    The switch appears to be a mess. They aren't noted for their robustity, and it the soldering joints look sloppy. Same with the ground "blobs" on the pots. One good thing yo have on hand when soldering is soldering braid which one employs to remove excess solder. The more layers and attempts at a good solder joint, the more likelihood of a bad joint. You could either go through and clean up all the joints, but the components aren't particularly high quality.

    If you can't get the wiring sorted, I would start over with new components, tinned lugs and wires, clean, tinned iron tip, proper wire colors, and a better switch - or the pre-wired plate you mentioned.

    2021-04-13_09h26_04.jpg
     
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  7. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    Perhaps I missed it, but I'm not seeing a ground wire for the strings.

    You should have the following ground wires in your circuit, all having continuity with one another:

    -Ground wire from neck pickup

    -Ground wire from bridge pickup

    -Ground wire to the jack's negative (sleeve) terminal

    -Ground wires connecting the pot cases to the switch; often unnecessary with a metal control plate

    -Ground wire making contact with the bottom of the bridge plate (string ground)


    If you don't have a digital multimeter (DMM), get one; even the cheepo no-name DMMs are very useful.

    Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Digital-Multimeter-300V-BMM-8132R/207038607
     
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  8. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Yes that red wire was originally set by Glarry to ground on output jack coming from vpot.
    Lord only knows why they would have setup red line for ground???
    I switched the red for the black and made appropriate connection red to hot and black to ground. Double checked to make sure I didn't reverse too.
    Good catch on the kink. Not sure if I did or it was factory? My meter crapped out yesterday so I had to return it and I'm ordering one today so hopefully I'll get it in a day or two.
    Regarding overheating the jack, I thought of this but the same issue on both the new switchcraft and the stock glarry jack has me doubtful as well. Thanks for the info!
     
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  9. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Will inspect for any contact issues. My meter crapped out yesterday and I had to return so I'm ordering one today and have it in a few days to test. Thanks for the info!
     
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  10. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I find a simple automotive continuity tester very easy to use - clip one end to a known good ground and poke around and watch the light. A multimeter is indispensable as well, but in the meantime, you may want to pick up a $5 continuity tester.
     
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  11. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    The stock setup from glarry had no ground wire to bridge and there were no noise issues, even with the new pups installed. All other grounds are as you stated.
    Here's a before pic with stock Glarry wiring.
    After pic is with the wiring for the new pups.
    ps: my meter crapped out yesterday, cheapo from Harbor Freight. I'm ordering one today so I'll be able to test in a day or 2. Thanks for the info Peegoo
     

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  12. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for reply and I hear you Boreas, some of the slop job is from Glarry, (remember they used a red hot wire for the bridge ground), and the rest of the slop job is my novice attempt at soldering my first project guitar.
    I don't have that much $$$ in it so I may spring for a pre-wired plate with some nice components.
    I mainly got the guitar for the weight and just something to occupy my mind from the covid lockdown mania. I also been thinking about tinkering with a guitar for a while. lol
    Soldering braid? I learn something new everyday. Thanks for the tip!
    I'm checking with a seller to see if the loaded control plate I'm considering will fit the Glarry control panel pocket. If I order the new control plate it'll give me time to noodle around with the current wiring.
    Thanks again for the info.
     
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  13. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I meant to say soldering WICK - same difference! I bought a solder-sucker (mechanical) but the wick works just as good or better for stuff like this.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X3DX51F/?tag=tdpri-20

    Make sure you keep the tip of your iron clean and TINNED. You can use regular solder, or something like this that I prefer.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/?tag=tdpri-20

    It helps the iron transfer heat better and makes a good, shiny joint more likely. Also, I would advise against lead-free solder unless you are going into production!

    One thing of note - never try to resolder a crappy, dirty joint by just adding more solder. It is imperative that you remove the dirty crap and clean/tin the lug before proceeding. If the joint is shiny, clean, and loose, you can try it. But if it is lead-free-solder it takes a tad more heat and just seems to be harder to produce a good joint unless you are experienced with it. Adding lead solder to unleaded is likely a recipe for a failed joint down the road, so the extra time spent removing the unknown solder is usually well worth it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2021
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  14. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Great advice! Thanks!
     
  15. DeepDangler

    DeepDangler Tele-Meister

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  16. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the info! The only thing is that there was zero noise or ground hum prior to the output jack replacement, that was with the stock Glarry pups, and the pup replacements, so something happened post instal of the jack. I have seen ground wire from Vpot on other projects and specs, but in this case there never was one. The pups I got only have two wires each - one red(hot) and one ground(black), (actually the HB sized p90 has white and black). I still can't explain why this all occured after simply replacing an output jack unless I botched the soldering. I'll inspect again and see if I can find the prob. I ordered a replacement meter so I'll be able to test and possibly get a lead on where the issues is. Thanks again!
     
  17. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for posting the diagram. I see the bridge ground on the diagram and I have no clue why the Glarry wiring omitted it? Then again, they used the red bridge wire for the ground to output jack?
    Any idea what gauge wire to use if I need to ground the bridge?
    Also, I had to trim the output jack wires down so I can tip the leads and they were short to begin with so I'm running out of room and considering replacing both wires. Is the ground and hot coming from the volume pot and middle lug the same gauge as the bridge wire ground? Is it 22 Gauge?
     
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  18. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Gauge doesn't matter much - 22 or 24. I prefer 22 just cause it is easier to work with. Any old piece of wire will work for a bridge ground. If you are going to shield the cavities, you can also use the shielding tape as a ground wire.
     
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  19. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    I'm going to try to trouble shoot the ground hum issues in the next few days but I've been considering a pre-wired control plate with upgraded components.
    I measured dimensions and I believe I need an import plate size as the pre wired Control Plates all seem to be American/Mex Fender tele plate size.
    Anyone have any experience with swapping out a import control plate with an upgrade?
    Also, My pup config is HB Size P90 A5(Neck) (Resistance is approximately 7.2K) and single coil for the bridge(Resistance: 7.6K)
    Any idea what volume and tone pots in the pre wired control plate I should be looking for? 500k or 250K?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
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  20. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Afflicted

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    @GrooveVoyager1 I wound up just sticking with the stock bridge pickup. The pocket would not work with another pickup. YMMV. I could finally get it in, but it was so tight that I couldn't raise or lower the pickup. Sanded quite a bit, but if I sand anymore, you will be able to see the pocket with the bridge on. No butt cracks for me.....so stock pickup will have to do. I haven't wired it back in yet, so now wondering if black wire is hot and red is ground with the bridge pickup. I honestly don't remember and now second guessing myself. I should have taken a picture before disconnecting.....
     
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