Today's detail is... power cord replacement. The old power cord went through a grommet in a 3/8" hole and had an overhand knot tied inside the grommet by way of strain relief. One AC wire went straight to the fuse tip (good) and the other to the switch (not so good). I won't rehash proper power wiring here, but if you're interested, the faculty here gave me a graduate seminar in this thread. After my seminar, I decided to upgrade to EU / international safety standards and use a DPST to switch both hot and neutral. I've been curious about this, it is modern best practice, I see Rob now including it in his layouts, and I just wanted to try it. Plus it is easy, elegant, and practical to have a switch lug act as tie point for the white neutral wire. I got a 16ga SJT 3-prong cable because... sturdy. It is possible a slightly slimmer SVT cord would have worked as well, and been a bit easier to work with. But sturdy won. Here's the old switch with a bit of power cord still attached, and the 3/8" hole where the grommet had been. I'm loosening the PT bolts to drop the PT, which otherwise sat right in the path of drilling out the power cord hole. Some folks suggest you can insert a 3-prong cord through a grommet, and maybe with SVT you can, but this cable, no way. Besides, a proper strain relief is better, and although I wasn't gonna make a double-D punch in this crowded corner, a standard Heyco relief fits in a round 5/8" hole -- and a P-clamp on the chassis prevents rotation if some jerk decides to twist your power cable.... So let's drill. Even a good sharp step drill can seize in the work, so proper clamping is needed to prevent your chassis from becoming a propeller. A little blue tape tells you when to stop. Strain relief pliers are the tool most likely to reduce swearing in your shop. On this SJT, it still took a tiny bit of a squeeze, but no air was blued with profanity. Before inserting the cable, I'd stripped off enough outer insulation to expose 3-4" of the green, white, and black wires inside. Stripping outer insulation without cutting the wires' individual insulation, and without cutting yourself, is not my favorite job, and I'm not gonna pretend I don't sort of reinvent the process every time I do it. If you're doing it for the first time, don't ask my advice; buy some extra long cable and practice with a few YouTube or DIY tutorials until you find a method you like. Next step: Safety ground (earth). Experts suggest the green wire be left longer than the black or white, so in the event the amp hangs from its power cord, the green will be the last to pull loose. Remember that jerk who was twisting your power cable? A swage-on ring terminal is actually industry standard, but I solder over the swage for grins, and because... shiny. Finally, best practice (and UL code) says to anchor the safety ground to an anchor that's mechanically and electrically separate. In this tiny space, though, I was reluctant to drill more holes, and decided to use the fallback of a PT bolt. But in any event, two keps nuts with loctite on both -- and crank 'em down tight.