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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by R. Stratenstein, May 22, 2016.
Holy childproof packaging Batman...
Sorry, Herb, just saw your question. Good one. Alan's is nibless, but this one's a Gibby*, aint it? Should have nibs, right? I dunno. Maybe I'll decide while I'm in the process. If it looks like Murphy is hanging around too long, maybe no nibs. If it's been smooth sailing, maybe I'll give nibs a shot. Either way, I got some extra, if I go nibless, I need to find one of those Radio Shack gizmos that people modify, so they don't have to buy a $$$$ tool from Stew Mac.
*EDIT(Well, a Gibby clone wanna-be, anyhow)
LOL, James, whatever could you be talking about?
An overly taped box showed up, Butters was happy because it gave her an additional opportunity to bark at the mailman.
Rick I think described the finish well, I would call it Meh.
There are some spots buried under the clear coat, some spots where it looks like they buffed through the clear coat, and some spots where they definitely buffed through the clear coat... and the color coat, and removed some wood. Oh and a spot around the switch which unnecessarily received major trauma. Although if this had been assembled the same thing would of happened the first time someone wracked the switch swiftly in preparation for a wailing solo. There's no way the top being that thin could survive long term playing.
Here's a photo rundown of the problem areas.
Buffed through the clear coat and color coat.
If you look between the holes you'll see a little ameoba thing, there are several places on the body with little blobby things under the clear coat.
Not sure if this wear mark happened on the trip to me or if that's how it was but that'll need fixing.
There is a crack in the black under the clear on the edge of the control cavity. Also an area to the left of it where the clear was buffed through.
I feel like this one is the most problematic, it looks like a witness line between two clear coats or maybe just a buff through. If it's a witness line between two clear coats... ugh.
Those are the finish issues that are real obvious.
In case anyone is curious
Now the switch hole. First observation is it is very small compared to my 59 LP templates, and it looks like it was carved by a monkey with bad teeth. I'm not sure how you get a cavity in a wood body so unsmooth (is that a word).
At that point I decided to lay my templates on and see how it lines up with a 59 LP. The outside is dead on but the switch and control cavities are wildly different sizes and locations on the body. I wonder if the locations on this body match a modern LP? I have no idea since I've never compared a modern to an older one. At any rate it doesn't affect anything, just an observation.
Observation process complete, time to start working.
I felt like I needed to start by fixing up the switch cavity to something a bit more usable.
I lined up my template and made the cavity a bit larger and smoothed it out. Even on the larger size of the 59 cavity it's tough to get the switch and wires in there. I can only imagine how much harder with the smaller hole.
You'll notice it has two bottoms. One of the bottoms matches the plane of the back of the guitar, and then the deeper bottom is at an angle and matches (almost) the plane of the carved top. When they did the second route on the cavity is when it went too deep and made the top way too thin.
After routing the cavity there is one other observation, I'm about 123% confident there is no mahogany in this body. I think Rick already realized that though.
The plan was to make a poker chip piece to fill the second bottom, then redo the angled carve to match the top, only not so thin this time. Here is a chance to get actual mahogany into this thing. I'm sure Rick's marketing department will spin this well and turn it into some marketing genius plan.
I recently learned to tune my scroll saw before beginning, not sure what note, I chose Bb.
The... uh um, second poker chip fit beautifully.
Here it is inside the smaller part of the cavity, it sits flush and tightly enough that it stays in with no glue.
Added some glue and clamped it in
Now I feel like I have the thin area reinforced well enough I can move on.
To sanding, first with 320 to get all the rough cracked poly off.
There were some hairline crack areas in the seal coat that I didn't want to sand through so I opted to fill those.
I don't know what they use for the seal coat but it is really thick, like really thick for reals thick.
I was curious how thick the binding was so I took the opportunity to sand through on the edge. As I looked around the body I noticed the binding was different thicknesses, the scraping wasn't exactly even all the way around. For example:
So I feel like I will just respray the color coat on the entire top, there's no way to spot fix without getting witness lines (downside of poly finishes). If this were lacquer I would probably spot fix and then clear the whole top. Probably better anyway as there are a bunch of spots on the top I don't think I could live with.
Sanded and ready for color coat on the top. I sanded the black way back on the binding so I can scrape it perfect after the new color coat. Previously it went from pretty visible to barely visible to not visible around the edge.
Couple of low spots from the original paint job I'll have to deal with.
I'll send one of these along with it.
Which fits nicely
James, thank you for documenting your process. It is very informative.
No idea why I'm posting this here but whatever.
I bought this at a flea market for $8. How'd I do? I know nothing about these things except I want a good one that works well. Will this be a good one if I spend the time to clean it up? It's super adjustable in all directions.
There is something broken off the back... is that bad?
Talk to Kat. She is hip on planes.
If I still had the thing, I might even opt for broom-applied clown barf, but since James is giving me the top-notch job, it's gonna stay black.
Definitely, James, thanks for DOING this as well as documenting it. I had noticed some of the finish flaws you noted, especially the undercoat, which is more like a hard Plasti-dip coating, really strange. I also thought the big, blocky binding was kind of weird, but hey, it's built to a $100 price point. Just please don't let Butters chew on the thing--that glop might be toxic.
I wonder if I could challenge GFS on their advertising this thing as mahogany? It's really misleading, and at that price, they really don't need to lie--they could always say something like "special Asian tone wood" or something like that.
But if I ever sell this baby, I will definitely brag about the scientifically designed MAHOGANY TONE DISK that creates extra resonance in the switch area, making for that endless sustain and rocknroll tone everyone loves. An Exclusive!
Thanks again, James!
I have a little plane about that size that I bought new for well over $8, and it's not nearly as nice (mine has a bent-metal body, not cast like yours, just for starters) But it sharpens up great, I can adjust it to cut perfectly, and frankly, it's the only plane of several I own that I consider useable. I'm sure it's more me than the planes, but this one is small, easy to sharpen, adjust and handle, and often comes in handy for many tasks. I definitely think it's worth taking a little time to clean it up, sharpen it up beyond razor sharp, and see how it does for you. There are numerous tutorials on the web about rehabbing old planes and getting them back into shape.
Are you going gold hardware or nickel on this puppy? I'm intrigued as to if a bolt on LP sounds different than a set neck. This debate has been going on since at least 1949. Did I just restart it? Oops! [emoji83]
Next we can calmly talk about the sonic little grails that are PIO caps..... (duck)
Unsmooth is a word.
That is how my friends described me when we went out to try and meet ladies on Friday nights. It also shows up on Google search, so it must be legit.
Do you enjoy repair work? Or, are you the self-punishing type?
It almost seems like you are peeling back the layers of an onion and finding all of the skeletons in the closet. Then reviving them.
It's an OK plane. I believe what you have there is a Craftsman 3704 adjustable mouth block plane. I have one exactly like it but haven't taken the time to set it up. Mine needs the sole flattened among other things.
Now all you have to do is modify a leslie organ and run the guitar through it and you'll capture about 70% of his sound.
I'm a Joe Walsh sorta-fan. I like the fact that his stuff is all over the place, and I LOVE his flowing style. Still love The Confessor. Plus my neighbor looks a lot like him (n kidding).
I actually do enjoy repair work, I'm purposely trying to do more of it and gain experience doing it. It's a funny thing for me, some days I wake up and feel like today is the day to tackle X repair, other days I wake up and think, no today is not the day to tackle X repair. Seems like it takes a certain state of mind to do it well.
Craftsman? Dang!!! Was hoping I hit the mother lode of all deals. Oh well, it still seems like a good place to start planing for me.
I'm a big Joe fan, even more so after I watched the recent netflix documentary on the Eagles. There are periods of Joe's life where I definitely wouldn't be a fan, but where he is now and how humbled he has become seems cool, and he is a great player.