GFS-No bridge holes...Help

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Colaiza1965, May 25, 2016.

  1. Colaiza1965

    Colaiza1965 Tele-Meister

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    I teach a week class and show teenagers how to build a guitar from a kit. I usually have reservations about GFS, but this year they really screwed me. Out of 8 tele kits all but 1 did not have the bridge holes for bridge. No ferrul holes either. I am so pissed, and I'll deal with them tomorrow.
    Can anyone tell me the quickest and correct way to drill the holes myself? They are all traditional tele plate bridges. Do I drill directly onto the body? If so, how do I center it correctly? Do I measure 25.5" from the nut? Any help is appreciated.
    I will never buy from them again.
    Thx.
    D
     
  2. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    This is the most common way. It's a Strat but the method is the same.
     
  3. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Might be a good learning experience for your students. If you'll go here, you'll find a beautiful drawing of a tele body, complete with classic bridge screw holes, ferrule holes, and the dimensions for everything else on the Telecaster body.

    EDIT: Whoops, I got a little carried away with the URL thingy, anyway, follow the video that Richard posted to drill the ferrule holes most accurately. The drawing, plus using your bridges for a template, will help you locate where to drill them.

    EDIT: Although the drawing I referenced above should give you a good location for the bridge assembly, you should probably check to ensure there is adequate compensation. In the video below, Dan Earlewine shows adding about 9/64" to the nominal scale length (25.5") to use as the location point for the saddles. The video shows a TuneO Matic bridge on and ES335, but the principle of compensation is the same. (Clever fix for "relocating" a TOM bridge, also, but that won't have any application to your Tele builds.

    BTW, good on ya for teaching some teens how to do something cool with their hands. Hopefully, it'll be a lesson they won't forget, and will build on in their lives, and in their kids' lives.


     
    Last edited: May 26, 2016
  4. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Have you got the Tele blueprint for measurements from the pocket to the holes?....

    Put the neck in..use two rulers down the neck edges to find a true centre line.... measure back from the nut 25.5 for scale length.. or from the 12th fret as I did here for an idea where the bridge/saddles sit for a rough set up...


    about here...>

    DSCF0075.JPG tele bridge placement.jpg
     
  5. harold h

    harold h Friend of Leo's

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    95% of the things I read about are about the poor quality. When
    it is not about quality, it is about problems with returns.

    I dont see how they stay in business (I had similar problems with
    them).
     
  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I like to put masking tape down around the bridge area if painted or draw lines right on the bare wood, with the neck installed. Once the neck is in place, take a long straight edge and draw a straight line along both sides of the neck. Make sure the straight edge is touching the complete side of the wood. The lines need to project onto the body where the bridge will be. Draw a center line that bisects these two lines. Hopefully this centerline will line up with your dot inlay or the centerline of the fretboard. Measure from the nut edge to the scale length or twice the distance from the nut to the center of the 12th fret and mark that on the centerline on the body. Take a protractor and draw a perpendicular line through that point across the other two tapered lines you drew. That is the scale length and the starting point from where you would intonate from. The breaking edge of the saddles should be right at that distance to start.

    I like to move my saddles forward about 85% at this time on the bridge and center it on the lines. I always move the bridge forward toward the neck but leave a bit of wiggle room. To intonate, the saddles will move back away from the nut in most cases. Put a pencil mark where the holes need to be for the posts or inserts, make a dent with a center punch or awl...

    Double and triple check everything before you drill. It's annoying to have to plug the hole and do it again. Use an accurate machinists scale for these measurements.

    Drill your holes on a drill press with a piloted drill bit if possible. Don't forget a ground wire hole from your tailpiece or bridge location into the control cavity.

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    Last edited: May 26, 2016
  7. David_Maas

    David_Maas Tele-Meister

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    You've gotten some great advice already, but might I suggest an alternate solution to your problem? Namely: you could also get some "top loader" Tele bridges. That way, you would only need to drill the holes for the actual bridge screws. I think guitarbuilder (Marty) also uses a top loader in the post above
     
  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Yes, I have used 3-4 toploaders in my last tele style builds and that is one of them above. Ebay search Duo Sonic bridges. I replaced the saddles with compensated brass ones and one got the threaded steel ones. I like them for the simple look and simplicity.

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  9. Ira7

    Ira7 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Really?

    95% of what I read is positive.
     
  10. Colaiza1965

    Colaiza1965 Tele-Meister

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    Thank you all for your kind suggestions. These are not string through, rather, from bridge to tuners. I realized that if I center and fit the bridge with pckup in it, I can drill the bridge into the body. But still I feel they should have drilled the holes. The quality of the holes are terrible! I hope the electronics are good. Next year I will use Bargain music kits or someone else. I'm done with gfs
     
  11. Colaiza1965

    Colaiza1965 Tele-Meister

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    Thank you.
     
  12. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    I was going to pass over this since you've gotten good advice from some great folks, but I have to ask this: What exactly are you teaching in this class? If you didn't know how to handle an incredibly simple issue like this, how are you addressing proper setup, etc on the guitar?
     
  13. mudimba

    mudimba Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

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    I've never used GFS (or any parts body for that matter), so if you say the workmanship is bad I can only believe you. In their defense though, there are different kinds of tele bridges out there. Even if you get a vintage replica and a modern tele from Fender they will have different bridges that will need different hole placements. It is possible that they intentionally left those holes out so you could make ones appropriate for the bridge you have.

    On that note, be careful about taking measurements from a blueprint, those holes might not match with your bridge. I'd place the bridge on the guitar, with string or dental floss going in the E locations from saddles to nut, just to double check everything before you drill any holes.
     
  14. Jdelys

    Jdelys Tele-Meister Gold Supporter

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    The GFS web site points out the bridges are top loading. You don't need ferrule holes, just screw holes for the bridge mount. These can be done with a hand drill. I prefer drilling these myself because is allows for easy string alignment.
     
  15. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I set my bridges up using short PG screws at first.... when I trial it and it sits in the absolute correct place, L to R, fore/aft, then I drill the holes for the longer permanent screws..


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    if you can't set up an index pin method for drilling the string through holes you can run a square line through where your string through holes go right to the body edges, square the line down the sides, then connect the line across the back , you can measure/mark on the back line where your ferrule holes should go, space them correctly/evenly/in line,,,, then drill 1/2 hole from the top and 1/2 hole from the bottom until they meet....

    drilling the full holes from the top can often lead to mis aligned holes coming through the back using small drills....
     
  16. moose13

    moose13 Tele-Holic

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    I am no expert but this helped me when i was setting mine. First of all i realized my bridge was too wide and had to reorder but it also allows you to see where top and bottom E srtings land in relation to the neck


    image.jpeg
     
  17. SouldogDave

    SouldogDave TDPRI Member

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    I bought hardware , slick pups were fine. But XFS makes the necks and bodies that GFS sells online. If you look at the website , you will notice their strat AND tele necks have the SAME HEADSTOCK! lol they market strat necks as "Tele style" and don't consider it deceptive , per their mktg. guy's email to me.
     
  18. fulcifan

    fulcifan TDPRI Member

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    While I'd rather it be a Tele-style headstock shape, the new neck I've gotten from them is very good (it's not an XGP), even if the headstock is shaped like a bird's beak. It's still very pretty burled maple. All that matter's is the heel is correct for the application, scale length is correct, and the thing is straight. This is my 4th new neck from GFS (including one Strat-fit neck, and two Gibby-style glue-in necks), and they are all still straight and played a lot.
    I think they are forced to standardize thing's like headstock shapes, while trying to avoid a lawsuit or two from Fender. .kevins camera 613.jpg
     
  19. Ira7

    Ira7 Doctor of Teleocity

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    I'm putting this type of bridge on my Synthcaster build (top loader). I'll only have the Roland GK-3 pup on there, and all of the routes have been filled with wood filler.

    The thing is, I'm covering the top with FABRIC, so while I love your method here for assuring left/right placement, I'm racking my brain about proper front/back position:

    It's not like any marks on the raw. wood body are going to be visible after I glue the fabric on!

    To make matters more complicated...

    You want to lay this thin synth pup as close to the saddles as possible. (It picks up the analog signals from the strings to convert to
    Digital much better this way.) So I want to lay the pup right against the front edge of the bridge, the edge facing the neck, of course. But I still want to be able to perfectly INTONATE the thing, so where do I put it for proper saddle travel?

    It wouldn't be the end of the world if I get it "kind of right" to begin with, because if I have to move it a little fore or aft, those holes in the fabric will still be covered by the bridge.

    There are truly good people in this world worrying about war and world hunger, and here I am worrying about this.
     
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