Gas...fittings

Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by bftfender, Oct 26, 2018.

  1. Toto'sDad

    Toto'sDad Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Code or no code I would not have run flexible tubing of any kind through the floor, or a wall partition. I don't like it coming out of the floor at right angles to the stuff that will be moved around it even if it's hard piped. I would have ran hard pipe from the source of fuel with it inside the wall, brought it up about six inches from the floor, installed a 90 and had the nipple come our of the wall a couple of inches past the wall, and put a shut off there at the end run of the hard piping, then hooked the flex line to that and on to the heater. I would have only used one male female 90 on the hard pipe into the stove. You have right there what I would casually refer to as a "plumber's nightmare." It'll work like you have it but and I'm being kind here, it looks quite a lot like windshield wipers on a duck's butt! :lol:
     
  2. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    ? so the instructions that come with it are for a ducks ass upload_2018-10-27_19-48-37.png
     
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  3. Toto'sDad

    Toto'sDad Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Well, if that's the instructions, you can't argue with that. Having said that, I've never seen anything in the way of a gas appliance set up that way. Maybe things are different in PA. I understand the reasoning though, having a sediment trap makes sense, but again, I've never seen that used on a gas line before. Sorry for the duck comment, it looks like you followed the instructions pretty much to a tee. The extra tee I also understand now that you've posted a pic of your instructions, it's acts as a test port so that you can check line pressure without removing anything else but the port access, and would allow you to operate the appliance as you checked gas line pressure. Actually a very good idea. Never mind, it looks like you did a fine job after all, more than one way to skin a cat!
     
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  4. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    what was alright with me ..is you guys were concerned about the safety of my family and i did re do it and without this post, i had a fitting that would of failed me down the line..so i give you guys my gratitude for helping me,,,going back to my trade..making car keys !!
     
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  5. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Good ole Rectorseal, which my HVAC guy called “Rectumseal, “and I never knew if he was kidding or really thought that was the name of the stuff.

    I have re-piped a few gas installations, and have always wondered if anybody has ever found anything in a drip leg? What is in gas to drip? I have even pulled the caps off the bottom to see, but never anything at all.
     
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  6. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    was pondering that..i wonder if there is crossover confusion from the oil heat guys with the real dirty type of fuel,
     
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  7. voodoostation

    voodoostation Friend of Leo's

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    Have found moisture and gnats in the sediment/moisture trap before (natural gas). Your re-pipe looks much better and the access to the shut off valve is a lot easier. That flex pipe is pretty easy to work with but it can be crushed. I've only ever seen them leak from around the flare nut on the end and that was in commercial kitchens where the equipment (rarely) got moved to clean behind. LP runs at about double the pressure than natural gas (usually 7" w.c. for LP and 3.5" w.c. for natural), so finding a leak is pretty easy. LP runs a much smaller orifice, so if airflow is reduced (dirty orifice or dust build up around the air shutter) you'll get a lot of yellow flame and then you get soot buildup. Then you get whoofing and popping at the burner. The whoofing and popping will cause the gasket under the burner and the sealant between the IR burner sections to fail. Those little heaters put out some good heat, though.
     
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  8. lammie200

    lammie200 Tele-Afflicted

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    The nice thing about paste is that it lubricates the threads whereas tape binds them up. I have used both, but working with paste is easier.
     
  9. tap4154

    tap4154 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I install built-in appliances professionally and see DIYers use flare fittings where pipe nipples should be quite a bit, and sometime they even stack flare fittings to adapt to a larger flex, rather than using the proper fitting. They also put Teflon tape on the flare end of the fitting before attaching a gas flex, which isn't necessary, and can actually crack the flare nut. Flex should not go through the floor or a wall. Illegal anywhere AFAIK. I'm not a fan of ANY Teflon tape, and have better luck with pipe dope. Many are good.
     
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  10. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Tele-Meister

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    Water, drip oil. Ever open up a c.i. gas main? There are drips which are designed to allow us to pump liquid out of the mains. They're placed in low spots on low pressure, cast iron mains. Water can stop the flow of gas, extinguishing pilot lights and potentially causing a dangerous situation, particularly on older appliances that still use pilot lights and have no safety valves in place.

    I know this because I work for the gas company as a foreman on a service/installation truck.

    Use dope on hard pipe, no need for teflon tape on a flare fitting. You can run flex pipe ( up to 13' here) on a fuel run, but it has to be inside and you have to have access to the entire pipe. The flex pipe in the photo is standard from the appliance to the hard pipe (which should have a shut off valve) and should definitely not terminate in a wall or in a different room.
     
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  11. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks for reply. What should i use instead of flex? i was going off the instructions. It is in an area where being bumped wont happen, but i have no problem making it bettee The Gas Co. connector is a similar type but not a flex pipe but solid and yellow color. It mated to my flex. Gas Co requires me to have it outside building to hook up, so i used flex pipe that i saw at the store. Also, you are not kidding about the heat..i got overkill, ordered a smaller unit so i can run it all the time and keep my building a constant temp..right now it will stay a 90 on lowest setting..way too hot, so i ordered an appropriate sized one.
     
  12. String Tree

    String Tree Doctor of Teleocity

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    It was probably a Hex Nipple.
    But, I do share your concern about the Appliance Flex Line coming through the Floor.
    Also, Venting and, adequate Fresh Air intake for Combustion.

    But, if it was Permitted, Inspected and Passed, you may break-out yer Tele and commence to Partyin'.
     
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  13. tap4154

    tap4154 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Flex is fine to use, the issue is it passes through the floor. You should run hard pipe up through the floor, then put a shutoff on top with a flare fitting the size of you flex fitting, so it is in the room and accessible, then put the flex between the valve and your other fittings. No need to use tape or dope on flare fittings either (can't tell if you did). The flare is what seals it, not the threads. To test for leaks just mix some dish soap in a bowl of water and use a rag to coat the fittings. If you have even a tiny leak it will bubble.
     
  14. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    The 2 problems with flex running through a blind area (floor or wall) is that you can't spot a leak in those areas and if it does, it will fill the cavity creating a very dangerous build up of gas. In reality, that flex should last you a decade of use without a problem, but the risk is there and that should be avoided. You need to be able to test each fitting and the line periodically so it needs to be exposed. I used a spray leak detector prior to every usage on the trucks, but that would be a little ocd for your usage.
     
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  15. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    It runs right out floor and joins the LP Tank line. Valve shut off inside on mine and valve and gauges on the 100 lb tanks. My end joins the LP Gas Co, line, This is a free standing outbuilding. technically the Gas Co could of tun their line right to my work without the flex pipe.But their rules are minimum 3" out side ready to hook to.They hook then pressure & leak test the whole system and then adjust flame. Looking back as easy as the npt pipe was i would of just done that.. prob will soon just for something to do for fun.
     
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  16. Chuckster

    Chuckster Tele-Holic

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    I was somewhat hoping that it was a hex nipple, but even if it was, that thread is buried.

    Glad he got it somewhat straightened out, but that flexi is still concerning. Hard pipe it through the floor or sleeve it somehow.
     
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  17. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    prob will hard pipe it to the Gas co line, seems like it will be fun to do. All i really have to do a strait pipe down and then an angle fitting and then the Gas Co asks for 3" of it out the building and they connect there.
     
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  18. String Tree

    String Tree Doctor of Teleocity

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    When it is all said and done, if it has been Permitted, Inspected and Passed, your Insurance will cover it if something goes wrong.

    When you sell your House, they can't come back on you for it either.
     
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  19. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    I don't know nothin about this stuff, but ver 2.0 looks a lot better to me! ;)
     
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  20. voodoostation

    voodoostation Friend of Leo's

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    Your setup will work perfectly as is, I wouldn't give it a second thought. The heater isn't mobile, you have easily accessible shutoffs. You're good to go! Next item is a humidifier if you don't have one already. Those PA winters can get mighty dry!
     
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