Full size Telecaster with 24“ scale length

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The Wanderer

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Hello
I finally finished a very special modification on a Telecaster which I wanted to do for years. And yes, it’s all about short fingers and scale length!

For the last two years I have mainly played a Tele copy „Fazley Outlaw Series“ (25,5“) and a Slick SL55 (24,75“) and loved the sound of both. However, I had to strain my hand and fingers quite a bit, which resulted in sloppy, tiresome and faulty playing that did not improve much over time. When I finally switched back to my old 24“ scale Mustang I instantly played far better and had much more fun. But however hard I tried (treble boosts, pedals and amps) with my Mustangs or Duo-Sonic I just could not quite get the crisp, gnarly, crunchy bluesy sound I like.

There are few Telecasters with shorter scale length. Some are 24,75“ (Warmoth, Reverned Greg Koch, ESP, Slick SL55) but they are still not 24“ and they all come with humbuckers instead of single coils. The ones with 24“ scale length are the „Fender Junior Collection“ and the „Warmoth“ 7/8 bodies (which are compatibel with Mustang necks). They are both rather expensive and have reduced body sizes, which makes them look a bit too small and not quite right for me.

Considering all this, I finally decided to try and build a low cost 24“ Tele with the the body of my Tele copy and the neck of a second hand „Squier Bullet Mustang“ (most comfortable neck I ever played). Of course you could simply attach the 24“ neck to any Tele body and bring the saddles extremely close to the bridge pickup and it would sound not right. You could also move the whole bridge plate 4 cm towards the neck, but that would look weird too (thats why Warmoth and Fender reduced the body size of their short scale Teles).

So I designed something to avoid those issues. I used simple DIY tools like a drill, chisels, saws and sandpaper. It all worked out surprisingly well. The paint job with the spray can however went not quite to plan. So I decided to go for a light relic look and sanded the paint back with a very fine grain and it turned out just fine. The guitar plays like a dream, and to me it still sounds and looks like a real Tele. It has almost the same overall length as a standard Tele (5 mm less). All the „twang“ is still there but I‘m planning to try 11 gauge strings instead of 10 to increase string tension. The cost of the two donor guitars was 200 euros in total. I also had to replace the tuning machines (Kluson for 30 euros, they work a treat).
 

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Jose Islanio

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Very nice! By the way, how's the tuning stability on it? Late december I finished a guitar with a 600mm scale length (~23,6"), and it has some issues with that. But it's so comfortable to play...
 

The Wanderer

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Hi Jose, tuning stability is great. Had no need to retune it for several playing sessions over three days now. With the old no-name tuning machines on the Squier Mustang it was terrible but with a new set of strings (gauge 10 or 11) and the new Klusons it's perfect.
 

Monoprice99

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As long as the math & locations of the neck & bridge work, it turned out well. If the 24.75 scale body was modified, it doesn't take much to convert a 25.5 Tele body to 24.75, equally as mathematical for location for going from 24.75 to 24. There might be 1/2 an inch location difference for the body for the bridge plate & pickup location. Visually it's different but over 24 => 25.5, most of that would be in the neck. Most 24.75, 25, & 25.5 scale necks are 15-16th fret neck pockets. The old Valco 25 inch necks are 15th fret neck pockets, some of the modern Airline guitars retain that, with a 25.5 or 24.75 scale neck. They look the way they do, seem to play quite nicely. I have a Mitchell MS100 that is a 22.5 scale neck that's not quite full body LP. It has 9's on it, doesn't suffer for not having 10's or 11's appreciably. But it obviously doesn't look like a traditional 24.75 LP for it's smaller body, shorter neck, the width of the neck for all intents seems wider visually, it's basically the same 42 mm nut, 2 3/16 inch heel. It's a 15th fret neck pocket body instead of 16th fret. There just isn't that distance between the 15-16th frets that it would look too obvious & not as much distance where the saddles are to the strap button. Another spacing is neck & bridge pickups are a bit closer. Dimensions, over 4-5 inches, a quarter inch isn't really going to visually matter appreciably, perhaps sonically even for those locations. I doubt the audience would know the difference, especially relatively impaired as any given person ever is or isn't. Looks like your rendition of a 24 scale TL is a 17th fret neck pocket. Some guitars are even 18th fret neck pockets when they have 24 fret necks.
 

The Wanderer

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That guitar looks fantastic Wanderer.
Photo looks professional too.
How did you photograph it?
Thank you Sammy. For the photo I just placed the guitar on a shoebox against a white wall. In a photo editing software I brightened up the dark aereas a bit and enhanced the contrast. I also removed the wall to replace it with white as background colour.
 

archetype

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Nice work! It's gratifying to produce something uniquely yours.

IIRC, for at least a couple of years Squier made a 24" Telecaster Thinline of pretty good quality.
 

The Wanderer

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As long as the math & locations of the neck & bridge work, it turned out well. If the 24.75 scale body was modified, it doesn't take much to convert a 25.5 Tele body to 24.75, equally as mathematical for location for going from 24.75 to 24. There might be 1/2 an inch location difference for the body for the bridge plate & pickup location. Visually it's different but over 24 => 25.5, most of that would be in the neck. Most 24.75, 25, & 25.5 scale necks are 15-16th fret neck pockets. The old Valco 25 inch necks are 15th fret neck pockets, some of the modern Airline guitars retain that, with a 25.5 or 24.75 scale neck. They look the way they do, seem to play quite nicely. I have a Mitchell MS100 that is a 22.5 scale neck that's not quite full body LP. It has 9's on it, doesn't suffer for not having 10's or 11's appreciably. But it obviously doesn't look like a traditional 24.75 LP for it's smaller body, shorter neck, the width of the neck for all intents seems wider visually, it's basically the same 42 mm nut, 2 3/16 inch heel. It's a 15th fret neck pocket body instead of 16th fret. There just isn't that distance between the 15-16th frets that it would look too obvious & not as much distance where the saddles are to the strap button. Another spacing is neck & bridge pickups are a bit closer. Dimensions, over 4-5 inches, a quarter inch isn't really going to visually matter appreciably, perhaps sonically even for those locations. I doubt the audience would know the difference, especially relatively impaired as any given person ever is or isn't. Looks like your rendition of a 24 scale TL is a 17th fret neck pocket. Some guitars are even 18th fret neck pockets when they have 24 fret necks.
Thank you. The body is a standard 25,5" body and has a 16th fret neck pocket. I used the original screw holes of the Tele body and the Mustang neck to screw on the neck. For the position of the hardware on the body it helps to know that I moved the pickguard, control plate and neck pickup about 1/6 inch towards the neck, the bridge plate about 3/6 inch and the saddles another 1/6 inch. The nut of the 24" neck is about 4/6 inch closer to the body than that of the original 25,5" neck, which is less obvious because of the black nut and the longer headstock. All adds up to the 1,5 inches difference between the scales. I also shortened the part of the body where it meets the neck pocket below the strap button by about 1/4 inch which makes the neck look longer (and the tele body more sleek and elegant looking in my opinion :). The shorter dinstance between the pickups made a difference indeed; I had to lower the neck pup an raise the bridge pup a bit to achieve the usual volume and tonal difference between the two.
 

The Wanderer

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Nice work! It's gratifying to produce something uniquely yours.

IIRC, for at least a couple of years Squier made a 24" Telecaster Thinline of pretty good quality.
Thanks. I prefer standard Teles to Thinlines. I know fender made a Thinline many years ago with reduced body size and a humbucker as neck pickup. Never heard of the Squier though.
 

Monoprice99

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Thank you. The body is a standard 25,5" body and has a 16th fret neck pocket. I used the original screw holes of the Tele body and the Mustang neck to screw on the neck. For the position of the hardware on the body it helps to know that I moved the pickguard, control plate and neck pickup about 1/6 inch towards the neck, the bridge plate about 3/6 inch and the saddles another 1/6 inch. The nut of the 24" neck is about 4/6 inch closer to the body than that of the original 25,5" neck, which is less obvious because of the black nut and the longer headstock. All adds up to the 1,5 inches difference between the scales. I also shortened the part of the body where it meets the neck pocket below the strap button by about 1/4 inch which makes the neck look longer (and the tele body more sleek and elegant looking in my opinion :). The shorter distance between the pickups made a difference indeed; I had to lower the neck pup and raise the bridge pup a bit to achieve the usual volume and tonal difference between the two.
Sounds like you took into account all the shorter parts and adapted the neck pocket for the shorter scale length neck also. I always looked at the shorter scale instruments as something that could be a relatively universal smaller version of the full size original. That is the 16 inch centerline of a Tele could become 15.0625 inches since the scales are 24/25.5 (94.12% of the perimeter dimensions of the body (except where the neck pocket has to natch the neck for width). That means the 13 inch lower bout width could be 12.25 inches. Really just maintaining the scale aspects of 25.5 being full sized vs what is perceived as 3/4 or 7/8 sized. To me the scale length is what determines what a guitar is, the rest of the wood is just eye candy to the core of the what the guitar was intended to make music with. You sweat the details to maintain 24 scale of the neck, nut to saddles for the core. That peripheral wood is for weight distribution for guitar balance to avoid neck dive.
 

Peegoo

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That is a PEACH! Nice work, @The Wanderer and welcome to the crazy house!

This is one of the real beauties of guitars: if you cannot find the thing you want, you can make it yourself.

It's not that difficult for a person to do once they get past the fear-of-failure problem. And it doesn't take specialized equipment to accomplish. Simple hand tools will yield good results.
 

AAT65

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Nice job! It certainly doesn’t stand out as obviously modified - only after looking v closely I noticed the alignment between control plate and bridge was slightly different. And you’ve made it a Tele that you can play and enjoy, which is the name of the game!
 

The Wanderer

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Nice job! It certainly doesn’t stand out as obviously modified - only after looking v closely I noticed the alignment between control plate and bridge was slightly different. And you’ve made it a Tele that you can play and enjoy, which is the name of the game!
Thank you! :)
 

The Wanderer

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That is a PEACH! Nice work, @The Wanderer and welcome to the crazy house!

This is one of the real beauties of guitars: if you cannot find the thing you want, you can make it yourself.

It's not that difficult for a person to do once they get past the fear-of-failure problem. And it doesn't take specialized equipment to accomplish. Simple hand tools will yield good results.
Thanks! :)
 
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