Refugee
Friend of Leo's
Just let the poor thing die already. Sentimental? Sure. Hang it on the wall.
Yeah, well it could still come to that, but I reckon I’ll finish the job I started. Anyway, the hardest part is DONE already!Just let the poor thing die already. Sentimental? Sure. Hang it on the wall.
Myeahh you probably won’t lolWhat a great learning experience! I look forward to seeing it being played
Just let the poor thing die already. Sentimental? Sure. Hang it on the wall.
well that's good enough for me!There's educational value in learning how to put splines in a guitar peghead, even if the guitar blows.
I'd stick with a good spline and yellow glue myself.
Isn't it too high up to be the scarf joint?busted scarf joint; musta taken a pretty decent hit
hmm, fair enough. It HAS a scarf joint, but the scarf joint itself didn't fail.Isn't it too high up to be the scarf joint?
At the shop I frequent splines are the method of preference for serious neck breaksThere's educational value in learning how to put splines in a guitar peghead, even if the guitar blows.
I'd stick with a good spline and yellow glue myself.
I THINK so… the crack is at an oblique angle relative to the fretboard so the cracked part is only a mm thick at that point and that’s the deepest part of the slot. Prolly wouldn’t have hurt to go another cm in both directions, but when I was feeling my way along the design stage I wanted to be conservative to minimize the risk of going through the front of the headstock or hitting the fretboard or god forbid some bit of metal like a truss rod anchor (no idea what the t-r looks like for this guitar) or FB registration pin (I personally have used brads with the heads clipped off for that).Does the rout for the spline on the bass side go far enough past the crack to stabilize it? (Disclosure: I know nothing about this kind of repair.)
I am starting to worry about finishing now…I feel reasonably confident about getting the splines shaved down and smoothing/filling the drill holes, but I hate spraying clear…I'm very late to this thread -- you are doing great work.
As for the aesthetics, meh -- it'll buff right out.
Yeah I thought later that the crack was at a sharp angle back the other way so you're good. Nice work all the way.I THINK so… the crack is at an oblique angle relative to the fretboard so the cracked part is only a mm thick at that point and that’s the deepest part of the slot. Prolly wouldn’t have hurt to go another cm in both directions, but when I was feeling my way along the design stage I wanted to be conservative to minimize the risk of going through the front of the headstock or hitting the fretboard or god forbid some bit of metal like a truss rod anchor (no idea what the t-r looks like for this guitar) or FB registration pin (I personally have used brads with the heads clipped off for that).
Yeah I have some bamboo skewers I’m thinking about using. Extremely good tensile strength and the end grain looks kinda cool (little dots)You could fill those holes with toothpicks (or whatever sticks you may have over there