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Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by Telecasterless, Sep 27, 2020.
Good advice when done leveling, crowning and polishing, but I'm not at the set up yet.
Do you have one of these? An essential tool for guitar set-ups.
.... using a fret rocker... gotta be there somewhere. Be sure to check each string location on the width of the neck.
I tried making "fall away" for this problem once. It didnt resolve the issue. Just saying... dont assume it will, it may. You shouldn't need fall away, fix the real problem!
That's why I described using the fret rocker very gently...because it is quite common for players and even techs to lean on the fret rocker when using it. This works perfectly fine on frets that are all firmly seated in the wood.
But sometimes a lifting fret will be the one bad apple in the barrel, and the fret rocker, if used improperly, will not detect the problem.[/QUOTE]
I have used the fret rocker on several Squiers and had great luck, but a loose fret, I never considered that or the impact. Learn something everyday, thanks.
How high is the action on the e string , if you raise it far enough to get no-choke bends ?
Dont overthink this , its probably ok
I was taught that you need about the same height of big E and A , and little e and h ( b in the US lol ) on most guitars.Then you would be fine
The stupid 7.25 radius sometimes demands you to dress frets with a fall away at the treble strings south of fret 12 or so ( Personally I hate 7.25 radius ) On almost every other guitar its ok without fallaway.
Any chance of a twist in the neck?
I didn't read everything, may have already talked about it. Is the neck twisted at all? It may be straight with the strings off and could be twisting with them on. I had it happen to me once.
You would think, right? I swear every fret is level, with both the fret rocker at like 6 different positions on every fret and with a straightedge the entire length of the fretboard.
The only thing I can think of is either 1) frets are lifting when I reapply string tension (will check this) or 2) the radius in the center is too high, but consistent across the frets, therefore the fret rocker won't pick it up, but bending the E string will still choke out at the middle.
I have set the action to 3/64ths on the high E per the textbook. It's where I have it my other guitars and like it. I haven't tried raising bridge to see if the choke goes away because I'm pretty sure it will, but maybe I will try that just to be sure. And I guess then I would know the radius is messed up.
Its a 12 radius though, not 7.25
THAT was exactly what I was thinking, but when I look down the neck it looks pretty straight. Really hard to tell.
I was thinking that, but seems pretty straight to me. Hard to tell for sure, if there is a twist it is really slight.
What are you using to check the radius? Does the radius of the neck vary? Radius of the bridge? Have you tried whacking it with a hammer?? Try tapping the frets in with a soft hammer to seat them, then recheck with the rocker. Try tapping on the frets with a bone nut if you have one and see if the bad frets sound dead or different.And you are sure they are crowned properly and not flat?
Which fret does it actually choke out on? Focus there and/or the next fret closer to the bridge.
Pulling that high on the strings may bend the neck, or do something else unexpected. There was a Montana woman that kept taking her minivan to the dealer because it had a vibration when she drove it. The mechanics couldn't get it figured out after multiple visits and test drives. Until they found out the woman was driving the minivan to and from work at a hundred and twenty miles an hour... Yeah, she'd have vibrations at that speed and maybe tire blow outs. Montana didn't have any speed limits at the time.
Yes ... the fall away is only very slight.
I believe it is to compensate for the fact that the truss rod won't bow the neck above the 12th.
Should be 12 across the entire board.
I will check frets to see if loose, but don't think they are.
Nothing is crowned yet, because I have gone back to leveling and spot leveling to get rid of the choking. Once I have the choking sorted out, will go back go crowning but no need yet until the the thing is clean.
It's tough to know which fret it's choking on. Keeps changing. You would assume it is one fret up from where you are fingering, but they are level. I am looking at two whole step bends, so maybe doing 70 but not 120 mph.
[QUOTE="Telecasterless, post: 10136415, across the entire board.
Nothing is crowned yet, because I have gone back to leveling and spot leveling to get rid of the choking. Once I have the choking sorted out, will go back go crowning but no need yet until the the thing is clean.[/QUOTE]
Completely wrong Procedure!& assumption...from the onset!
The gtr is 'UNPLAYABLE'' after leveling step completed.Only After Crowning is it ''Playable!'' etc.& fret assessment then made etc.
The leveling stage leaves Flats!-A large ''area'' where underside of stringWOULD all ways contact.!=choke,..... but Crowning deliberately leaves a Less wide area/a THIN area.the Crowns PEAK!The DEAD CENTER of the fret...=Actual ''fret height''=It is at this stage [,..not before ]..... one assesses the frets & plays etc the final assessment=To find UNEVEN fret heights!
Since you have all ready spot leveled etc etc trying to 'eradicate' faults prematurely!=Now re level all..the frets and Crown all the frets accurately etc.
be warned/Prepared...if too little fret height remaining=A total RE FRET...and All newly installed frets need L & C'ng!
You will likely get erratic choking until the frets are properly crowned. Crown first - then evaluate playability.
Boreas is absolutely correct