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Fret buzz from 7th to 19th fret

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Voicing 13, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. Voicing 13

    Voicing 13 Tele-Meister

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    Hey,

    I have a MIM neck on a gfs body. I put a proper shim in the neck pocket since the original had one. Now the guitar buzzes from the 7th to 19th on the low E and going a little higher up as you change strings I.e. 9th fret on A etc...

    I've raised that saddles a little (1.5 mm to 2mm, 4/64 to +/- 5/64) but no change. I've adjusted the neck relief which helped maybe a little but not much.

    Should I take the router out a flatten the neck pocket? Or should I add more neck relief (now at 0.010")

    I'll be grateful for any suggestions, been waiting to have time to do maintenance for awhile.

    Thanks
     
  2. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Have you tried it with the shim out?....
     
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  3. tonyv77

    tonyv77 Tele-Meister

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    Don't think flattening the neck pocket will do anything unless you want better contact between the neck and body. More neck relief I believe is in order. However it sounds like you have a high fret. Try the StewMac fret rocker. Not too pricey and can. Isolate the problem. I use it quite often. Any questions feel free to ask.
     
  4. highwaycat

    highwaycat Tele-Holic

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    Based on the info provided, this seems normal. A fret level would be the best solution.
     
  5. Dacious

    Dacious Poster Extraordinaire

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    You've backbowed it, likely. Clamp strings at fret 1 and fret 17. Clearance at 12?

    Loosen the strings, back the truss rod right off by a turn and retension strings. Let it sit overnight. Then try 1/16 of a turn. At a time. Recheck relief in the middle of the neck.
     
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  6. backporchmusic

    backporchmusic Friend of Leo's

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    Too little info to go on but--it would seem the problem arose when you changed the shim. So there would be the issue. A slimmer shim, or one in a slightly different place in the neck pocket (more toward headstock and high e?). Did you put the new shim in the exact same place, and is it the exact same size?

    Or is 'the original' referring to the MIM body vs. the GFS?

    If so, dump the shim and start over altogether, trying to get a good setup with no shim first.
     
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  7. Mr Green Genes

    Mr Green Genes Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm not sure I understand the issue- was the guitar buzz-free before you put the shim in?

    Was there an issue with the action before you put the shim in?

    Is the shim over-correcting?

    Without actually seeing the instrument, It sounds like you could stand to loosen the truss rod just a touch.

    At any rate, those telling you to pick up a fret rocker are giving you good advice.

    On an instrument that cost less than four figures, you're almost guaranteed to need at least some fret leveling.

    It could also be a combination of issues.
     
  8. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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    .

    watch a few videos of daves world of fun stuff for the setup process.

    fret 3rd and check gap at the 1st fret (less than a couple sheets of paper)
    fret 1st and 19th and three to four papers at the 12th
    set saddle on E string so a US Quarter fits under the string at the 12th fret, dime at the high-e, the others in between

    .
     
  9. Voicing 13

    Voicing 13 Tele-Meister

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    Sorry, I'm always as clear has mud...

    Ok the shim was installed and glued to the new gfs body as the neck cavity was too deep.

    I did a levelling and crowing of the frets on the neck prior too.

    I also loosen the truss rod today in hopes this would help but I did not wait over night.

    I will look for a high fret, I'll take some pics and check out those videos.

    Mr. Green you asked if the shim could be over correcting, I'm asking myself the same question. How could I tell?

    Thank you all, lots to think about.
     
  10. highwaycat

    highwaycat Tele-Holic

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    As for the shim over-correcting, check the action at the 17th fret, then at the 21st fret. There should be a tad more height around the 21st fret. Doesn't have to be, but it's one way to check.

    I'm wondering how you adjusted the truss rod prior to leveling.
    You don't have to wait long for the neck to settle. It will settle, but you adjust the truss rod until it is suitable to level, then you level.
    It will only settle a little bit. You don't have to make small adjustments, just don't over tighten.
    Show me one guitar that has a broken truss rod from adjusting. betcha can't. I've serviced hundreds of guitars and i've never seen a broken truss rod, not even once. Adjust away. Just saying it's ultra rare.

    ya the gfs bodies are weird, I'd say it's a combination on the body being hard to setup wit this neck, and maybe a second fret level would do, but get the neck very straight, but not too straight, then level a little.
     
  11. Tonetele

    Tonetele Poster Extraordinaire

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    I think Dacious is correct. I once repaired a Les Paul that had backbow from frets 9-15 . Small turns ( righty tighty- lefty loosie). highwaycat's comments are correct. A little tension at a time and I also prefer a level / straight neck. Small right turns (I believe) to tighten the neck back to level.
     
  12. TimTam

    TimTam Tele-Holic

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    So was it a flat shim or a tapered one, or a combination ? Each has a different effect.

    Some shims are flat - i.e. have uniform thickness from one end to the other.
    Some taper from zero thickness at one end to say a mm, give or take, at the other end.
    Some are a combination. Stewmac's for example - they are 0.2 to 0.5mm thick at one end and 0.7 to 1.5mm thick at the other end.

    That's proper shims that run the full length of the neck pocket. Not ones where someone just stuck a pick in the neck pocket to shim it. ;)
     
  13. KokoTele

    KokoTele Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    I think that in order to fix this you're either going to have to hunt around in the dark for a while, trying different things until something works, or you're going to have to start doing some diagnosis :)

    I'd get the neck as straight as possible with the truss rod under string tension, and then check the entire neck for level with an accurate straight edge (checking at 3 different spots across the neck), as well as checking with a 6" straight edge for high or low humps, and with a fret rocker to find the high and low frets. With a fret rocker, I check each fret at all 6 spots where the strings cross over them.

    Shims change the adjustment range of the saddles. If you can get the action to the height you want, then you don't need to change shims. (Keep in mind that setting the saddles higher means a sharper break angle over the saddles. This results in both a stiffer feeling guitar and more sustain.)

    Truss rods don't impart the same force over the length of the neck, so sometimes you can't use one to get a neck perfectly straight. When this happens, you need to do your level & crown with the neck under tension from both the truss rod and the strings.
     
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  14. highwaycat

    highwaycat Tele-Holic

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    The 2 ways I'd set this guitar up would be either a second careful fret level or level the fingerbaord with the frets off and fret it again. I'd say if you're ganna hook it up to a jig then might as well make it close to perfect. Sometimes there is a low fret around the 7th fret and it throws people off before a fret level, I see it on squiers.

    Or I'd say get use to the way the guitar plays and acts then try to do a compromising setup so any issues aren't that noticeable, so it's playable.
     
  15. Voicing 13

    Voicing 13 Tele-Meister

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    Hey,

    After reading everyone's replies, I checked the fret and they seem fine. Sorry for letting this drop, been a busy week at work.

    I over corrected with the shim both in angle and height. I was hoping to take the router out this weekend but it rained. I don't have a work space and therefore need to work outside for this.


    Thanks for all the help! I'll post again once I re-rout the neck pocket.



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