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Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Danelbaum, Aug 11, 2020.
No nut adjustments. Plenty of saddle adjustments, though.
FWIW, I usually use straight 11s or heavy bottomed 11s, and string height often ends up at about 1.5X factory specs. Factory specs are 1) to have a factory standard, and 2) to make the guitars seem easy to play to your average Guitar Center customer. These specs are far from ideal, IMO/IME.
I choose my string sizes based on feel alone. Despite 11s being my go-tos, I have several guitars with straight 10s, and one with 9s. The one with 9s (Jimmy Page signature Tele) has the highest strings of any of my electrics. It feels and sounds “right” that way. One guitar with 12s (an Epi Uptown Kat). All my acoustics have 13s, except my ‘27 Martin, which needs light Silk and Steels to stay in one piece. With acoustic, it’s all about maximizing volume and tonal quality.
Especially since this is where the change is being made. OP, are you talking about while playing or tuning?
I dont see any reason a string height change would impact anything at the nut unless other things are being changed too and even that is a stretch
Raising the action for easier bending does not make any sense to me. It would make it harder. If the reason is to get a better grip on the string, the problem is the fret is too short, not the action is to low.
For me, every string has to speak clearly on every note regardless of fret wear, etc. I've also got certain bends and pulls I'll run through to nix fretting out. It's not so much a matter of liking higher action; rather something I often end up with over the course of a set-up. A player's touch has to be factored in as well.
i bump up to a hair over 2mm (top of 12th fret, bottom of low E, no capo) and never had to fool with nut...ive heard/read thats a medium action...i feel like you'd run outta screw threads to raise action so high as to need a new nut right?
I don't get this "plinky" thing you're describing. I use Gotoh splits (Allparts # TK 0880) and I sweat the prep and installation of those strings so that the string breaks away from the post, well down towards the bottom, with the coils approaching that point arranged like a spring. In many cases these are stock Cyclovac nuts on MIM Fenders with minimal dressing from some Uo-Shikyu nut files, and not even a Tusq, Graphtech or Bone bank with precuts.
I set the guitar up so it plays real nicely, set up low, and only then do I raise the action. Not real high, just high enough so notes can bloom a little. I think notes tend to sound stifled when the action is kept low, not when it is raised up.
Did you tell me once that depending on the bridge, saddles or neck of a Tele, low action can't always be achieved?
If so, please elaborate on that subject for us.