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flatfive's Former 2014 Challenge Build - La Cabin Absentia

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by flatfive, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Had to re-rout the neck pocket after a day of spraying
    lacquer!

    Correctly-sized neck pocket template:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Almost forgot that there is a 1.3 degree angle to the pocket!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Took it real slow. Looks okay from here:

    [​IMG]

    (but note that the neck will now overhang the side of the
    pocket a little.)

    Well, one chip in the binding, but somehow I found it on
    the ground right away. (So much for Murphy's Law :lol:)

    [​IMG]

    Glued the chip in with thin super glue; also used a bit of
    ebony dust. Then sanded with 320, 400, 600 grit paper:

    [​IMG]

    After wiping on shellac:

    [​IMG]

    After softening the edges around the pocket, all is more-or-less
    well:

    [​IMG]

    Guess that's a bullet dodge. But I'll still need to carefully
    shape the neck to minimize where it would overhang the
    edge of the neck pocket.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2014
  2. Wheelie

    Wheelie Tele-Meister

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    Hi Glenn,
    Looks like your progressing nicely with such a late start.
    Your neck pocket trials remind me of a quote I read once, can't remember who wrote it.

    "Building a guitar looks really hard but in reality it is much more difficult than it looks."

    Steve
     
  3. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Hey Steve. Nice to see you here -- and I like that quote.

    I guess there are millions of ways to screw up and only one
    way to get it right. :lol:

    Managed to rout the truss rod slot. Decided on heel adjust
    because it's easy and gives a more traditional tele look. Also,
    I've found that the necks built with these double-action rods
    are super-stable and very rarely need adjustment.

    Anyway, normally I'd rout the slot with a fence while the
    neck blank was square. This time I had to cut the neck
    to width first, so I can't use a fence directly. But -- you can
    always use a fence by mounting the piece to a piece that is square.

    [​IMG]

    That's a piece of 1/2" MDF attached to the neck.

    There are pencil lines on the router table and on the neck
    blank so I can see where to stop. The distance between
    the lines is the cutting width of the router bit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hope I can find the maple jig I use to drill the access
    hole! :eek:
     
  4. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    Beautiful!!!
     
  5. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I disagree; usually there are at least 2 or 3 ways to get it right! :idea:

    Millions of ways to screw up sounds about right though.... :lol:
     
  6. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Finished spraying! :D

    [​IMG]

    I'll be able to wet sand and buff on Friday night.

    Started on test routs for the fretboard inlays. Here's
    the impromptu jig:

    [​IMG]

    What you're seeing is a my cheapo router table with
    a strip of wood riding in a channel on the top, with the
    orange-ish poplar piece glued to the strip. By holding
    the fretboard against the poplar piece I can make routs
    that are square. The pine scrap clamped to the board
    is a stop that controls the length of the routed channel.

    The white stuff glued to the fretboard allows the rout
    to be made roughly parallel to the top surface of the
    fretboard.

    [​IMG]

    That looks good. Now to figure out how to get the
    length of each rout just right.

    I forgot to mention: MOP inlays, except for the 12th fret, which
    will be abalone.
     
  7. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    That will look great!!
     
  8. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Great jig!
     
  9. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Last time I drilled tuner holes they weren't exactly
    straight. This time they will be straight!

    I made a template of maple to be sure, then drilled:

    [​IMG]

    Used so much double-sided tape I worried that the
    scarf joint would break before the template came off. :lol:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    But they're straight all right! :cool:
     
  11. dazzaman

    dazzaman Tele-Afflicted

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    That veneer looks fantastic with the finish on it.
     
  12. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks for the encouragement, people. :)

    At this stage in last year's challenge, the phrase
    "balls to the walls" kept surfacing in my brain. This
    time I keep hearing "critical path".

    Anyway, decided to use a different jig to route the
    neck inlay cavities. Made me nervous not being able
    to see how long the routs were going towards the center
    of the neck.

    [​IMG]

    The center of the jig is aligned with the center of the workbench.
    That way I can use my eyes to help center the routs between
    fret slots.

    [​IMG]

    With the real fretboard:

    [​IMG]

    The length of all routs should be the same on the final,
    tapered fretboard, but the fretboard has square sides now,
    complicating things a little.

    No obvious mistakes, thankfully. Even got the routs on the
    correct side of the neck. Also, most routs are reasonably
    centered.

    [​IMG]

    Each piece of MOP will serve as both a top and side marker.
     
  13. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    I like your fret marker layout, Glenn. The abalone 12th fret is a cool idea.
     
  14. tubeswell

    tubeswell Friend of Leo's

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    Me too. Points for tasteful originality!
     
  15. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Extra points for simplicity and ease of execution!
     
  16. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks, friends.

    Jigsawed and routed the headstock:

    [​IMG]

    To shape the inlay for the fingerboard I made a little gizmo:

    [​IMG]

    The block on the left screws into the block on the right,
    clamping a piece of mother of pearl on the edge.

    On the right block you can see the dark spacer
    strip, a small piece of MOP, and a plastic card.

    You use the gizmo like this. First put a piece of
    MOP on the bottom block and screw on the top block...

    [​IMG]

    then saw a strip slightly larger than needed using the
    block as a guide.

    [​IMG]

    The sawed piece should have a very straight edge. Sand
    if necessary to make it straight, then put the straight edge
    along the card, clamp with the screws, and rout with a
    template bit.

    One of the block edges is perfectly straight and juts out very
    slightly from the other -- you ride the bearing of the bit along it.

    [​IMG]

    Unscrew and you've got a piece of MOP that is just the right
    shape for the inlay channels on the fingerboard.

    The gizmo wasn't essential but if nothing else it was handy
    for clamping and sawing.

    Need to make one or two more MOP strips and an abalone strip.

    [​IMG]

    BTW, that dark spacer strip helps to keep the clamping pressure
    flat on the veneer. I used leftover veneer binding strips and
    glued them on Black/White/Black for fun. :rolleyes:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Slick!
     
  18. Barncaster

    Barncaster Doctor of Teleocity

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    I love that fretboard style! Really sweet Glenn!
     
  19. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

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    Ah ha! I had been pondering how to make exactly this style of fret/side marker (though probably out of a different material) and now you've just shown me exactly how to do it! Thank you!
     
  20. Mojotron

    Mojotron Poster Extraordinaire

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    Go Glenn Go!!
     
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