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flatfive's 2013 Build Challenge

Discussion in '2013 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by flatfive, Jul 21, 2013.

  1. thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    That looks amazing man. I'm learning so much from this thread - thanks.
     
  2. Wheelie

    Wheelie Tele-Meister

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    Mellow out man, it looks great. The view from the side with no joint for the binding or fret board is going to be the money shot. Definitely worth the effort.
    What are you doing for side dots?
     
  3. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks, cableguy. Me too. :lol: I've been building guitars
    for a few years, and basically everything I know is due to
    the generous sharing of info here.

    Wheelie, it's been a little while since I've been told to
    mellow out :lol: -- but you're probably right. For side dots I was
    planning black dots, but the other day I found some abalone
    dots. Think the abalone would look cheesy? I've never done
    side dots in maple.
     
  4. kwerk

    kwerk Poster Extraordinaire

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    Too pretty, Glenn! I agree, the side view will be really distinctive. I gotta try this, it's a great look.

    Man, you better get this finished. :eek:

    Hope the self analytical songwriting is going well. ;)
     
  5. RedwoodFall

    RedwoodFall Tele-Meister

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    I saw one of the new Fender Select Strats with this inlaid fretboard thing going on the other day, there is something so seamlessly elegant about it. Combine that with the pretty little twelfth fret inlay, the inlaid headstock, you're gonna have one beautiful little neck in your hands. Fine work.
     
  6. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

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    One more amazing build. Great work.
     
  7. 2blue2

    2blue2 Friend of Leo's

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    Its an honor to learn from the master. I'm utilizing all these neat ideas.
    _________
    Jeff C.
     
  8. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    RedwoodFall, GunsOfBrixton, 2blue2 -- thanks.

    Back from my trip, and showing my enthusiasm
    (or fear of not making the deadline :neutral:) by
    getting back to challenge work within about half
    an hour of getting home from a long trip.

    Tweaked the coloring of the putty again and
    decided it was now do-or-dye :oops:

    [​IMG]

    Tonight I sawed the logo in mother-of-pearl for the headstock.
    First the logo pattern was super-glued to the MOP.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the stuff I used:

    [​IMG]

    Right after sawing:

    [​IMG]

    Did some smoothing with small files and sandpaper. The
    two pieces have to look the same, but they're not quite
    there yet.

    [​IMG]

    If you look carefully you can see that the top part of the
    piece on the left is skinnier than the corresponding piece
    on the right.
     
  9. Allthesound

    Allthesound Tele-Afflicted

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    Welcome back Glen! You still have plenty of time.. tick tock :p I love that b5 logo man Imho its perfect.!
     
  10. thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    That's gonna look great!
     
  11. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Hope you enjoyed your trip!
     
  12. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Hmm, I figured if I was completely ready to shoot lacquer by
    the end of today, I could do it. Shoot lacquer Mon and Tues,
    finish neck Wed and Thurs, sand and buff finish Fri. night, then
    assemble guitar on Saturday.

    But I'm not completely ready to shoot lacquer now. :eek:

    Thanks, guys. The three of you have checked in here a lot.
    A nice part of these challenges is getting to know people.
    Sorry I haven't spent as much time on your threads as I'd
    have liked.
     
  13. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Go, Glenn, Go. !

    Honestly, the flat symbol and the 5 for the headstock don't need to be identical, they're already so similar that the visual effect is made, and after all, the flat symbol isn't really derived from the 5 numeral, so I guess what I'm sayin is that to my mind, it's OK for them not to be identical, they're perfect enough, and to spend your time going on to something else.
     
  14. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Started the day by wiping some shellac on the front
    of the body.

    [​IMG]

    This gives a good idea of the eventual color.

    Then applied some medium super glue with a foam brush.

    [​IMG]

    and, after a couple of hours, sanded:

    [​IMG]

    Think I did three coats of CA, total.

    A key step was to mount the neck in the body. Didn't want
    to drill the bridge mounting holes until I saw the alignment of
    the neck with the body.

    So, used the "Jack Wells Method" to make a neck pocket
    template from 1/4" MDF.

    [​IMG]

    I wouldn't trust those clamps alone -- there's Scotch double-sided
    tape between the poplar pieces and the MDF at the clamp
    locations.

    The next step is to remove the neck and rout. I'd earlier
    sawed out most of the pocket area.

    [​IMG]

    That's it:

    [​IMG]

    Since the neck pocket will be at a 2 degree angle, I wanted
    a thicker template, so transferred the template to 3/4"
    plywood, and then improvised to get the template at 2 degrees
    relative to the body.

    [​IMG]

    This trig calculator told me that, since the length of the template
    is 13 3/16" long, the end of the template needs to be 0.46" above
    the body.

    After setting things all up, I remembered that the heel end of my
    neck has sharper corners than the 1/2" diameter in the template
    and of my router bit.

    Squaring the corners of the template did not sound like fun, but
    then I realized it would be a piece of cake using one of those
    "flat" saws.

    [​IMG]

    So then I routed, and after using the 1/2" diameter template bit,
    I used a plain, straight 1/4" diameter bit to sharpen the corners.
    No bearing on the bit -- just ride the shaft on the template as
    Melvyn Hiscock describes in his book.

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the bad pic -- it was getting dark. At least you
    can see the corners are pretty tight.

    I discovered that I had a drilling guide that would work for
    the stop tailpiece. :D No way I'm drilling those bridge
    holes without a guide.

    [​IMG]

    The next thing was to see how the neck fit into the body.
    After about 10 strokes with 120 grit on each side of the
    neck, I got a nice snug fit. First pic of the body and neck
    together:

    [​IMG]

    and the center of the neck points right to the center of
    the heel of the body :cool:

    [​IMG]

    Guess I didn't need to wait for the neck pocket before drilling
    the bridge holes. :lol:

    But wait, is the neck angle right?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That should work fine. The ruler's aligned with the top of
    the neck, so the strings will be a little higher than that.

    Before spraying lacquer, I still need to drill the bridge holes,
    the output jack hole, the wiring routing holes, and the
    pickup cavity. Plus, I need to finish with the body prep.
    Oh, and also the neck mounting holes. :neutral:

    If I can get this stuff done by around noon I should be okay.
     
  15. macaroonie

    macaroonie Friend of Leo's

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    Nice !!!
     
  16. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Sweet job Glenn! :D
     
  17. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    I come back here often not only because of the beauty of the guitar, but for the learning experience. You do such precise work, it is inspiring.

    Those pics of the bridge plan and the caliper then against the ruler, they are now written in my memory.

    I've been wondering how to do an angle pocket all along this challenge as my original plan was to use that kind of bridge then realize it would not work on a flat pocket. I hurried and bought a standard fender style bridge because I did not have the knowledge to use my original one. Because of you and other who are willingly sharing your knowledge, I have the confidence I will be able to make it right on my next guitar.

    Now the only interrogation I have left is related to the post position. do you angle them slightly to allow a better intonation on the low E string or do you install them at 90 degree of your center line? Is there a rule about this post positioning. Stewmac fret calculator suggest 1/16 to 1/8 farther away. What do you use?
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2013
  18. macaroonie

    macaroonie Friend of Leo's

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    Just thought I'd remind everyone of Glenn's first post in this thread. :lol:
     
  19. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    Glen, this is an amazing build. I have spent the weekend reading and rereading your thread. I have lots of notes and have a set of router guides on the way. The detail that you have gone to is excellent. Thanks for helping those of us that are still new to this. I have no doubt that this guitar will be beautiful when finished. I can't wait to see and hear it. Again, thank you!!!
     
  20. Picton

    Picton Friend of Leo's

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    I'm jealous. My centerlines are always out by at least 1/8", usually more... nice, clean work here, Glen.
     
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