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Discussion in '2013 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by flatfive, Jul 21, 2013.
That looks amazing man. I'm learning so much from this thread - thanks.
Mellow out man, it looks great. The view from the side with no joint for the binding or fret board is going to be the money shot. Definitely worth the effort.
What are you doing for side dots?
Thanks, cableguy. Me too. I've been building guitars
for a few years, and basically everything I know is due to
the generous sharing of info here.
Wheelie, it's been a little while since I've been told to
mellow out -- but you're probably right. For side dots I was
planning black dots, but the other day I found some abalone
dots. Think the abalone would look cheesy? I've never done
side dots in maple.
Too pretty, Glenn! I agree, the side view will be really distinctive. I gotta try this, it's a great look.
Man, you better get this finished.
Hope the self analytical songwriting is going well.
I saw one of the new Fender Select Strats with this inlaid fretboard thing going on the other day, there is something so seamlessly elegant about it. Combine that with the pretty little twelfth fret inlay, the inlaid headstock, you're gonna have one beautiful little neck in your hands. Fine work.
One more amazing build. Great work.
Its an honor to learn from the master. I'm utilizing all these neat ideas.
RedwoodFall, GunsOfBrixton, 2blue2 -- thanks.
Back from my trip, and showing my enthusiasm
(or fear of not making the deadline :neutral by
getting back to challenge work within about half
an hour of getting home from a long trip.
Tweaked the coloring of the putty again and
decided it was now do-or-dye
Tonight I sawed the logo in mother-of-pearl for the headstock.
First the logo pattern was super-glued to the MOP.
Here's the stuff I used:
Right after sawing:
Did some smoothing with small files and sandpaper. The
two pieces have to look the same, but they're not quite
If you look carefully you can see that the top part of the
piece on the left is skinnier than the corresponding piece
on the right.
Welcome back Glen! You still have plenty of time.. tick tock I love that b5 logo man Imho its perfect.!
That's gonna look great!
Hope you enjoyed your trip!
Hmm, I figured if I was completely ready to shoot lacquer by
the end of today, I could do it. Shoot lacquer Mon and Tues,
finish neck Wed and Thurs, sand and buff finish Fri. night, then
assemble guitar on Saturday.
But I'm not completely ready to shoot lacquer now.
Thanks, guys. The three of you have checked in here a lot.
A nice part of these challenges is getting to know people.
Sorry I haven't spent as much time on your threads as I'd
Go, Glenn, Go. !
Honestly, the flat symbol and the 5 for the headstock don't need to be identical, they're already so similar that the visual effect is made, and after all, the flat symbol isn't really derived from the 5 numeral, so I guess what I'm sayin is that to my mind, it's OK for them not to be identical, they're perfect enough, and to spend your time going on to something else.
Started the day by wiping some shellac on the front
of the body.
This gives a good idea of the eventual color.
Then applied some medium super glue with a foam brush.
and, after a couple of hours, sanded:
Think I did three coats of CA, total.
A key step was to mount the neck in the body. Didn't want
to drill the bridge mounting holes until I saw the alignment of
the neck with the body.
So, used the "Jack Wells Method" to make a neck pocket
template from 1/4" MDF.
I wouldn't trust those clamps alone -- there's Scotch double-sided
tape between the poplar pieces and the MDF at the clamp
The next step is to remove the neck and rout. I'd earlier
sawed out most of the pocket area.
Since the neck pocket will be at a 2 degree angle, I wanted
a thicker template, so transferred the template to 3/4"
plywood, and then improvised to get the template at 2 degrees
relative to the body.
This trig calculator told me that, since the length of the template
is 13 3/16" long, the end of the template needs to be 0.46" above
After setting things all up, I remembered that the heel end of my
neck has sharper corners than the 1/2" diameter in the template
and of my router bit.
Squaring the corners of the template did not sound like fun, but
then I realized it would be a piece of cake using one of those
So then I routed, and after using the 1/2" diameter template bit,
I used a plain, straight 1/4" diameter bit to sharpen the corners.
No bearing on the bit -- just ride the shaft on the template as
Melvyn Hiscock describes in his book.
Sorry for the bad pic -- it was getting dark. At least you
can see the corners are pretty tight.
I discovered that I had a drilling guide that would work for
the stop tailpiece. No way I'm drilling those bridge
holes without a guide.
The next thing was to see how the neck fit into the body.
After about 10 strokes with 120 grit on each side of the
neck, I got a nice snug fit. First pic of the body and neck
and the center of the neck points right to the center of
the heel of the body
Guess I didn't need to wait for the neck pocket before drilling
the bridge holes.
But wait, is the neck angle right?
That should work fine. The ruler's aligned with the top of
the neck, so the strings will be a little higher than that.
Before spraying lacquer, I still need to drill the bridge holes,
the output jack hole, the wiring routing holes, and the
pickup cavity. Plus, I need to finish with the body prep.
Oh, and also the neck mounting holes. :neutral:
If I can get this stuff done by around noon I should be okay.
Sweet job Glenn!
I come back here often not only because of the beauty of the guitar, but for the learning experience. You do such precise work, it is inspiring.
Those pics of the bridge plan and the caliper then against the ruler, they are now written in my memory.
I've been wondering how to do an angle pocket all along this challenge as my original plan was to use that kind of bridge then realize it would not work on a flat pocket. I hurried and bought a standard fender style bridge because I did not have the knowledge to use my original one. Because of you and other who are willingly sharing your knowledge, I have the confidence I will be able to make it right on my next guitar.
Now the only interrogation I have left is related to the post position. do you angle them slightly to allow a better intonation on the low E string or do you install them at 90 degree of your center line? Is there a rule about this post positioning. Stewmac fret calculator suggest 1/16 to 1/8 farther away. What do you use?
Just thought I'd remind everyone of Glenn's first post in this thread.
Glen, this is an amazing build. I have spent the weekend reading and rereading your thread. I have lots of notes and have a set of router guides on the way. The detail that you have gone to is excellent. Thanks for helping those of us that are still new to this. I have no doubt that this guitar will be beautiful when finished. I can't wait to see and hear it. Again, thank you!!!
I'm jealous. My centerlines are always out by at least 1/8", usually more... nice, clean work here, Glen.