Flat top parlor semi hollow build

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pypa

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Truss rod installed and head slots routed.

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pypa

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The long body allows for a nice long tenon. I'm using some "african walnut" as the neck blank. It feels like sapelle, just more yellow.

While the center block won't be glued to the top of the body sides, I want it to fit snug, so I'm using some sandpaper to make it flush.

I was originally thinking the make the center block run all the way to the heel, but I can save some weight and give some room around the switches by terminating it higher up.

My maple neck is pretty heavy compared to the body. I hope it doesn't dive.

I'm using cherry for the headstock cap and the fretboard as well. I've used it for fretboards before and I like it; it's softer than maple but close grained and feels slicker than the walnut I usually use.

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pypa

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No matter how hard I try to plan, I have never done a build where I do everything in the right order. First I forgot to route the recess around the power plug. So I had to fill that hole w a dowel, and re-drill a smaller pilot for the router bit.

Next, I needed to thin out the underside of the f holes to 3/16” for the bindings. That’s hard after gluing the sides I found out. So I used a forstner bit and the drill press. That wasn’t smooth enough. I decided to use a 3/8” spiral bit in the drill press as a planer. It’s not a standard procedure but can be done safely if you take off a micro amount each pass, and take care not to contact the sides. I set the speed to about 1500 rpm, set the depth by adjusting the table height and then moved the body around as if the bit were a “Safety Planer” (I dislike that brand name). It’s working ok. I did one side so far.

I should have done all of this before attaching the top.

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badscrew_projects

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No matter how hard I try to plan, I have never done a build where I do everything in the right order. First I forgot to route the recess around the power plug. So I had to fill that hole w a dowel, and re-drill a smaller pilot for the router bit.

Next, I needed to thin out the underside of the f holes to 3/16” for the bindings. That’s hard after gluing the sides I found out. So I used a forstner bit and the drill press. That wasn’t smooth enough. I decided to use a 3/8” spiral bit in the drill press as a planer. It’s not a standard procedure but can be done safely if you take off a micro amount each pass, and take care not to contact the sides. I set the speed to about 1500 rpm, set the depth by adjusting the table height and then moved the body around as if the bit were a “Safety Planer” (I dislike that brand name). It’s working ok. I did one side so far.

I should have done all of this before attaching the top.

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It's working in the end, means you're good :)
 

Freeman Keller

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The tops on most laminated topped guitars (the whole ES family) are slightly over 1/8 inch in thickeness. Most flat topped acoustics are less than 1/8. The more or less standard for drop tops is 1/4 because you can just cover that with binding.

I think I would have just planed the plate to 1/8 before cutting the holes or gluing to the rim, which would have also eliminated the need for the recesses for the pots.
 
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pypa

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I glued in the center block and routed some of the pocket. I'm still a little high but want to finish some of the fretboard before committing to the pocket depth. I think my favorite part of any build is setting the neck and getting the fretplane to the bridge just perfect. At least you know then that it'll play, regardless of all the aesthetic screwups that one (read, "I") makes.

Freeman, you are right. I should have planed the top down more. I was originally thinking to leave it flat on the inside but that left the f holes too thick. I should have of course realized that. I have been playing the last semi-hollow that I made. It sounds SOOOOO good unplugged. It's not much loud louder than a solid body electric, but it's way less tinny.

I realized that after I started on THIS build. Had I realized the thin, carved top made such a nice difference in the unplugged sound, I would have spent more pre-glueup time this time carving it more precisely.
 
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Phaedros

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I totally feel you on the order of operation - can’t count how many times I thought it had been better do do sth before the other 😅

Great build and documentation. Real fun to follow!
 

Freeman Keller

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Freeman, you are right. I should have planed the top down more. I was originally thinking to leave it flat on the inside but that left the f holes too thick. I should have of course realized that. I have been playing the last semi-hollow that I made. It sounds SOOOOO good unplugged. It's not much loud louder than a solid body electric, but it's way less tinny.

I realized that after I started on THIS build. Had I realized the thin, carved top made such a nice difference in the unplugged sound, I would have spent more pre-glueup time this time carving it more precisely.
I wasn't sure at the beginning exactly what you were building - "flattop" and "parlor guitar" have slightly different meanings to me. I might have been a little more adamant in my suggestions had I known the direction this was heading. I don't know a whole lot about this style of guitar but Ive made most of the mistakes and could at least warn you of potential problems.

I think this is going to be very interesting when it is done and I'll continue to chime in from time to time but remember what they say about opinions.
 
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