First time neck build, using cherry

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by tacomamc, Dec 26, 2016.

  1. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Ok, I need some suggestions. I want this neck to look good, not just be functional. The ebony fretboard already has frets, it's not a blank, and the fretboard has no nut slot cut, as it previously butted up to the nut and had an angled headstock. So how do I make this look good on a telecaster/ snakehead neck. I'm open to something less traditional (like what Reverend does). I just don't want it to look like a hack job. Maybe it would simplify things to put the truss rod adjustment at the heel. Please let me know your thoughts, thanks.
     
  2. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    6,211
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Location:
    North of Boston
    A wooden truss rod cover that also acts as the rear support for the nut. I had an Asian mustang looking thing come in for a make over. Out side of the glue holding the nut in there was a bent piece of pearloid pick-gard material as the truss rod cover also adding support.
    Slight Alt version: Make the nut slightly taller, make the nut slot slightly deeper and then either a TR cover or glue in a piece of scrap Ebony as the back support. The deeper channel will add to the stability which would then be reinforced by the TR or scrap brace
     
  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County
    Just glue the nut in against the fretboard and down on the neck. That's what Gibson does.
     
  4. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Thanks a lot, for the recommendation. Should I use super glue?
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County
    I use yellow glue on my bone nuts.. bone is porous.
     
  6. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Awesome, thank you both. I'd prefer to have no truss rod cover, if possible. I'm planning out my truss rod cut now, and will use my table saw with a shallow depth cut made in two or three passes to get the proper width.
     
    guitarbuilder likes this.
  7. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    I printed out the headstock template, and put it on the blank. I put the then placed the truss rod on top just to try and get a visual of where I need to make my truss rod channel. This is a 24 fret board, but I'm going to cut it down to a 21 or 22 fret. I figured I should verify that it's a 25 1/2" scale length like most Fenders. That's what I recalled it being, but it was 1994 when I ordered it. Glad I checked..... it looks to be an even 25". That could have ruined my day! No problem.... 25" scale it will be. Here's the mockup:[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
  8. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    So, with the rod I have.... is this a double action rod or single? Also, does the flat side go up or on the bottom? There's a bit of the plastic wrap missing on the rod from when I removed it. Can I just tape over that? [​IMG]adjusting end

    [​IMG] nom adjusting end

    [​IMG] missing plastic wrapping
     
  9. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County
    The rectangular rod faces up touching the bottom of the fretboard. Clamp the end in a vise and put a wrench in the nut. It should turn both ways and should bend down and bend up if it is a two way rod. You can just use whatever tape you have as it just keeps the glue off the rod and keeps it from rattling.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
  10. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Thank you.... I realized after I posted that I could look at the donor neck to see how it came out, and it was indeed, exactly as you described.

    Here's tonight's progress:
    [​IMG]
    Marked and drilled to the correct depth
    [​IMG]
    Chiseled the sides of the route channel
    [​IMG]
    Then used the smallest chisel to remove the waste
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    And the truss rod fits!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Here's the headstock template glued on, and then drilled around the perimeter.
    [​IMG]
    All cut out!
    [​IMG]
    And the headstock shaped... I might keep the extra but at the end, or make some sort of devilish horn? We'll see....
     
    Barncaster and lbridenstine like this.
  11. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Here's the progress this afternoon... got the neck sides cut down and shaped, and got the neck blank cut down to the proper thickness as well. I still need to glue the fretboard on and thin the headstock as well.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Barncaster likes this.
  12. crazygtr

    crazygtr TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    97
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2010
    Location:
    PR
    Make sure to measure that fretscale, older carvins used a 25 inch scale. ( I believe they still do on some models)

    Edit: sorry, didn't catch it on post 107
     
  13. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Thank you! Yes, that would've been frustrating. So I've got to glue up the fretboard, and I'm thinking through the issue of aligning the board correctly on the neck. I know the proper way to do it is to pull a fret at either end and drill a small hole and use a brad to keep it straight. I've never pulled a fret before so I'm A little skittish, though I've got that other rosewood fretboard that I can practice on. I still need to cut off the last two frets, but I think I'll wait until it's all glued up before sawing off the last bit of the neck. I need to drill the access hole as well for the truss rod. I'm not sure that it matters if I thin the headstock before or after attaching the fretboard, but I think it'd be easier if I do it before attaching the fretboard.
     
  14. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    And, the headstock is thinned.[​IMG]
    Mockup with the fretboard (not yet glued).[​IMG]

    Now I've got to read up on how to properly shape the back of the neck. I read something where lines are drawn and you file up to those lines, but I've got to find where that was.
     
  15. otterhound

    otterhound Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    7,716
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    Location:
    Manheim Pa.
    You can use dowels . You only need 2 , but can use 3 . Of course , you will need to make a template . Dowels assure proper alignment .
     
  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County
  17. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County
    On one neck I made, the fretboard was already fretted and bound, so I actually glued 4 skinny rectangles on the neck wood as an alignment system to hold the tapered fretboard in place during clamping. Since you already cut the shape out, that is probably not an option. Perhaps a couple staple gun staples put into the neck, with the horizontal part of the staple cut off after the stapling, could possibly hold it without drilling holes.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
  18. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,119
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2012
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta
    This way you don't have to pull a fret. Go to the 11:00 minute mark. I've used this method many times.
     
    Arch Stanton likes this.
  19. tacomamc

    tacomamc Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,907
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast Pa
    Thank you all for your suggestions. I think the staples method is a great idea, sort of a variation on the method used in the video. That's probably what I'll do, as it looks like it'll work and be well hidden.
     
  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    20,657
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County

    I've seen somebody do the staple thing in a video somewhere but never tried it myself. If you have an ebony fretboard, you may need to make the dents deeper by drilling a bit more, as that stuff is pretty hard.
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.