First Time Finisher?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by patchr, May 2, 2010.

  1. patchr

    patchr TDPRI Member

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    I've started finishing a pine tele body. I put 3 coats of Zinsser's seal coat on today sanding with 220 in between coats. Am I right in thinking that I can go right on to the color coat next week?

    Basically my thought is seal coat as much as needed follow with color coat and then follow up with the clear coats, wet sanding and polishing. Let me know if I'm missing any step.

    Thanks for any input.
     
  2. K-Line

    K-Line Tele-Holic Vendor Member

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    If your satisfied with the level-ness of the sealer coat, go for it. Zinsser's is a great base.
     
  3. patchr

    patchr TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the reply. If I can't get it level enough I will just grab a can of the deft sanding sealer.

    Thanks again Chris
     
  4. patchr

    patchr TDPRI Member

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    Strip the shellac?

    How can I strip the shellac? I think I put it on too heavy and now it doesn't seem to be sanding that easily. I want to go back down to the raw wood. Also, I think I should thin it out and apply with a cotton rag instead of brush.

    Do you think I need lacquer thinner to take it off or just denatured alcohol?
     
  5. patchr

    patchr TDPRI Member

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    Bump

    Bump
     
  6. telewacked

    telewacked Tele-Holic

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    For shellac I believe that you use alcohol.
     
  7. txspreacher

    txspreacher Friend of Leo's

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    Correct
     
  8. gb65

    gb65 TDPRI Member

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    I keep getting an orange peel when I spray shellac . How can I make it smooth? Can I sand it down and just put a coat of Tung oil or Danish oil on it? This is my first time and I don't know much about finishes.
     
  9. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    If you're using an unwaxed shellac, like Zinsser's Bulls Eye Spray Shellac,
    then you can sand and put just about any kind of finish over it.
    Read the directions on the can.

    The shellac can also be easily removed with denatured alcohol
    if you want to start from scratch.

    What kind of wood are you finishing? Was your goal to have a
    shellac finish and you're thinking of switching to tung oil or danish
    oil because of the problems you're having with orange peel?

    I haven't sprayed shellac (I've only applied with a pad), so I'm not sure
    why you're having problems. You could experiment with scrap to see
    if spraying differently solves the orange peel problem. Again, read the
    back of the can.
     
  10. gb65

    gb65 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks flatfive. I'm finishing a pine body. Zinsser Amber was a left over from another project, so I decided to use it. I got a sray can of Zinsser clear for a top coat and it orange peels. The sray can says not to sray in high humidity, so that might be the problem. Always humid in TN. Maybe is should try a pad. I just want it to be nice and smooth. I thought maybe some other kind of finish could be put on it for a top coat. The problem with orange peel is making me think of some other type of finish.
     
  11. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Shellac is not so great as a top coat as it is a delicate finish.
    If you can flatten the clear shellac without sanding through to
    the amber shellac underneath, then you could use almost any
    finish over the clear shellac.

    For example, you could spray on lacquer, or brush on lacquer, or
    brush on waterborne lacquer, or use wipe-on poly, or ...

    Sanding through to the amber shellac would be bad because
    you might get uneven color if some of the amber is sanded
    off. Also, the amber shellac has wax in it, so other finishes
    will probably not adhere well to it.

    If you do sand through, you could simply wipe a "spit coat"
    of unwaxed shellac on before applying your top coat.
    A "spit coat" is just a thin coat of shellac, it can be
    applied in just a minute or two. See about 3:55 into this
    video as an example:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiiGeKDj1Uk&feature=related

    Almost every top finish is compatible with unwaxed shellac.
     
  12. Colt W. Knight

    Colt W. Knight Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Zinnisers shellac will not spray smooth. Ive tried everywhich way I can think of. It works better wiping it on in numerous thin coats.

    I only shellac as a base coat if I want the unique color it provides. Otherwise, I use Deft sanding sealer. Shellac clogs sand paper easily, and the color is hard to get even simply wiping it on. Deft Sanding sealer works much, much better.

    The biggest problem you are going to have with pine is that it swells a lot when you apply just about any type of finish. When you spray your color or you go to wet sand, you will notice that the grain has raised a lot. It ussually takes a little extra effort to get pine nice and flat.
     
  13. gb65

    gb65 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks flatfive and Colt. Thats great information, I've learned my lesson with shellac. I think I'll get the waterborne lacquer and try that. I didn't want to spend too much but this is turning into a fun project and I'm already thinking of building another. Thanks again guys.
     
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