First Build - Thinline!

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by santacruzpwom, Dec 3, 2019 at 2:45 PM.

  1. santacruzpwom

    santacruzpwom TDPRI Member

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    Hey all! I've been a member here for a number of years, but I've never posted. I am about to start my first build soon. I'm going to make a 69 thinline. I'll update with pics as I move along! I've already got the wood ready to route.

    I grabbed the file for the 69 thinline from here: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/thinline-template.374971/

    Here is my first question: I see two sets of 6 holes on the bridge. What are each set for? Which ones should I drill out for the string through?

    Thanks!

    -Nate
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The six holes in the row are for ferrules. The 3 holes in a row ( or 4) are for mounting screws. Don't drill any bridge holes until the body is done so you can check the bridge with the routs. That means have your bridge available so when you lay it all out.
     
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  3. santacruzpwom

    santacruzpwom TDPRI Member

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    Thanks guitarbuilder. I know the 6 holes are for the ferrules, and I know the 4 are for mounting. I just see there are two sets of them on the template provided. (6 blue and 6 red). I also see 3 additional blue circles in line with the 6 red. I am confused by what all those hole are there for.

    Also, I will be using my CNC for everything. Would you still recommend waiting on drilling out the bridge holes til I have my bridge in hand?
     
  4. BobbyMac

    BobbyMac Tele-Meister Gold Supporter

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    Is it possible that one set of colored holes are for a vintage bridge mount, and the other colored holes a modern 3-screw mount bridge?
     
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  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I'm not sure why there are two sets of holes and I wouldn't trust drawings on the internet to be perfectly correct, except for the tdowns drawing rev E, which is a sticky thread here at Home Depot.

    When I have made the thinline, I have used the tdowns drawing and just added the F hole and the cavities from another source, probably that drawing you are using. I didn't use the holes though from that drawing. I used the neck hole locations from the Tdowns and located the bridge after the fact.

    You could locate the holes with the cnc. I use a Dremel burr in an adapter to locate little dents on my cnc, but I'd wait to see how the bridge fits with a pickup in the rout you create. When drilling the holes for the ferrules, it's customary to drill from both sides of the body and meet in the middle.

    Before the top was attached
    thinline.jpg

    After

    t2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2019 at 5:02 PM
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  6. santacruzpwom

    santacruzpwom TDPRI Member

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    After matching up the stickied pdf to the one that I also got here for the thinline (with F hole and chambering), they match up exactly. I figured out which holes to use for the string ferrules. The great things about the stickied pdf is the fact that it lists all of the depths for everything. I will hopefully be starting this project soon. I'll update with pics soon.
     
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  7. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Like Marty, I have built a chambered tele using the Tdowns drawing and simply adding my own chambering. I did not put an f-hole in it, just my preference. The important thing is not to lay out or drill those holes until you have made your neck and fitted it to the body, then use YOUR bridge to lay out the holes. I understand there are some differences and I don't know how much difference they make, but if you always lay it out with the actual bridge you are going to use it will always work.

    IMG_4624.JPG

    IMG_4688.JPG

    IMG_4708.JPG

    Edit to add that the StewMac fret calculator gives you a check distance for each of their bridge but I always double check it with the one in my hand before drilling any holes
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019 at 3:58 PM
  8. santacruzpwom

    santacruzpwom TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the tip. I will make sure to wait on the holes until I have the bridge. As far as the neck goes, I think I am going to buy a warmoth neck for this one. I don't want to get too far into the woods on my first build. I have a CNC and I've dreamed of building my own body for years, but never got around to it. I finally have the wood, so I'm going to give it a go. I just got some porter pups in the mail today too!

    Where are you hosting those photos? Photobucket is blurry now. I want to post some pictures.
     
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  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I quit using photobucket a long time ago. Those were simply uploaded from my computer using the Upload a File feature from the advanced editor.

    ps - you might want to review my recent thread on building for playability and my older one on doing setups (which talks a lot about geometry too)

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/basic-setup.952636/
     
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  10. WingedWords

    WingedWords Tele-Holic

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    I can't help with technical details, but these pictures may be of interest. It's a body that Rexter Guitars in Norfolk is building for me, based on the first version of the Thinline from 1969 with two single coils and a vintage bridge.

    https://rexterguitars.co.uk

    20191029_101130.jpg IMG_20191117_152211.jpg
     
  11. santacruzpwom

    santacruzpwom TDPRI Member

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    So much great info in there! Thanks! I will upload some pics tonight if I remember to do so.
     
  12. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Thank you. I don't know if this helps any but when I built my chambered tele a couple of years ago I did a little thread. Its basically a thin line but I didn't put the f-hole in. The above pictures were taken from that thread, here is the whole bloody thing

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/a-chambered-tele-ish-sort-of-thing.884657/
     
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  13. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    That looks cool, the routes are very similar to the Kirn templates I have, no hole in between the pickups though. I bet that ash body needs that weight relief though Northern Ash is pretty but deadly heavy.
     
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