first build... the "Sterkaster"...

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by sterkyyy, Oct 10, 2013.

  1. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Seriously, do yourself a huge favor. When you rough carve the neck, let it sit for a few weeks. Let it move out and then finish it off.
     
  2. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    build update: I cut the control cavity plate from two boards of ziricote I had leftover from a previous build.
    [​IMG]

    I cut out the bird on the top wood, then glued it on the walnut body. I luckily had enough clamps to cover a good deal of the border.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a close up of the bird cutout. I just recently got a scroll saw, and it works amazingly in cutting stuff like this out. Very happy. There's some more fine sanding left to do.
    [​IMG]

    Technically the notch on the back by the control cavity was a router slip, but it also works pretty well for a notch to get the control plate out, too :)
     
  3. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    Thanks, I'll let it sit for a while. Luckily for me, the wood was an inch thick, so I was able to machine out the warp to 3/4 inches with a router sled. Now it's pretty darn straight.
     
  4. Glen Smith

    Glen Smith RIP

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    The bird looks very good.
     
  5. xaxxat

    xaxxat TDPRI Member

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    Where did you find this jig?
     
  6. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    http://sixgunguitars.com/fret_slotting_jig.html

    I got a pre-slotted maple board from stewmac for 13$. tape that to your fretboard you want to cut, then the use the razor blade in the jig as an index pin for the top board to cut. The site explains it better
     
  7. TeleSky

    TeleSky Tele-Holic

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    +1


    The fret slotting jig is on my to do list as well, now that you reminded of me, I think its time to move it up the priority list.
     
  8. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    The bird looks great!
     
  9. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    Thanks yall for all the compliments on the bird! I like it as well. Well I cut the pickguard and the hole for the Charlie Christian and installed in the pickguard, and I love the way it turned out. But I need an opinion from the TDPRI community. I'm trying to figure out what layout for the knobs and switch. So choose either...

    A (Straight):
    [​IMG]

    or...

    B (Angled):
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Picton

    Picton Friend of Leo's

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    Straight.
     
  11. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    I think A looks good.
     
  12. TeleSky

    TeleSky Tele-Holic

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    A looks better to my eyes.
     
  13. BR06623

    BR06623 Tele-Meister

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    I like "A" too. This whole build is looking great!
     
  14. Ronsonic

    Ronsonic Tele-Afflicted

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    Can I suggest "C"? Put the switch on the upper bout and relocate the knobs. That area is going to get real busy when you play and having the switch right under the bar ....

    Otherwise, A looks righter.
     
  15. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    After I put this together I was actually thinking of doing that... let me see what I can do.
     
  16. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    got around to working on the neck. I got the fretboard glued on over the neck wood and truss rod. I got the inlays drilled in and glued in. happy with the fretboard. [​IMG]

    But with this came some problems. After gluing on the fretboard I realized I didn't caulk the truss rod in the neck wood. It vibrates a little. I can get over that. But when I was contouring the transition from the nut to the headstock, I realized I wasn't straight on. And well, this happened.
    [​IMG]
    Would it be ok to cut the headstock a little thinner? From like 9/16ths to 1/2 an inch or around 7/16ths? My only issue is structural integrity and tuning stability. I don't want the headstock bending slightly up due to string tension. I'm using Gotoh vintage locking tuners so the height of the tuner won't be an issue for the headstock being slightly thinner. One small pass on my router sled and I can get the headstock level. Some insight would be very helpful
     
  17. Lunchie

    Lunchie Poster Extraordinaire

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    What trussrod are you using? After talking to Warmoth I found out I ordered the wrong style. Luckily its only a $14 mistake :lol:
     
  18. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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  19. sterkyyy

    sterkyyy TDPRI Member

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    Started on finishing up the neck. Because the headstock was too thin, I glued a 1/8 inch walnut veneer I cut up on the bottom. I'm hoping this will also negate the need for a string tree for the top strings. Fingers crossed. I got the 7.25 radius on the fretboard (I know crazy curve right?!? I like how it feels :D). Yes I radiused the fretboard with a sanding block alone. And yes, my arm is still sore. Who needs to workout when you can just build a guitar?[​IMG]

    taped up a razor blade to a quarter inch, the diameter of my inlays, then scraped over the inlays to get them flush with the fretboard.
    [​IMG]

    I got a better than expected shape on the neck. I shaped it slightly thinner than my other tele's neck, the one I based it on.
    [​IMG]

    Got around to placing the tuners on the headstock.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Pressed the frets in. I taped off the fretboard so I could level all the frets, and they are pretty dang straight.
    [​IMG]

    Ta-da!
    [​IMG]

    frets and fret wire need to be cleaned up, but 90% of the neck is done. The other 10% being cleaning and finishing. I was so scared this neck would've been a train wreck, but I am quite pleased with the product. I'm gonna be out of town for the neck couple of days, but next week I will hopefully finish up the guitar. Don't quite know if I'll be able to finish with tru-oil for the thanksgiving deadline I placed. Not a big deal. I'd rather take time on it than rush it!
     
  20. crazygtr

    crazygtr TDPRI Member

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    [​IMG]

    Is that a crack or just sanding marks? If it's a crack I see some trouble on your way. Hope it's just some need of sanding.
     
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