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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by thecableguy, Mar 1, 2013.
Slight pain in the a$$ hey?
So Rich, how'd ya like the different tones from all the switching options?
I loved the options, but in honesty I didn't need 'em. It was fun to have them, just the same. Over the years I have come to the realization that I really need about three great tones from an instrument- a slicing, full treble from the bridge, a thicker, round tone from the neck, and a balanced, clean sound from a combination of the two. Any other coloration is handled by my effects (to an extent), and my technique to a greater extent. KISMIF Keep It Simple, Make It Fun.
Just because a car CAN go 100 mph, doesn't mean it SHOULD.. If ya catch my drift.. My youngest son is an incredible drummer. When he plays on a huge set, he sounds awesome. When he plays a four piece kit, he's even better. Too many choices distract ya from the music. I'd rather connect with the music and the guitar will follow my heart..
Since my L6-S had it's guts ripped out (as so many did), I'm not gonna wind the inductor (although the fact it's wound humbucking is pure genius). I'm using a Q-filter from the same Bill Lawrence that designed the thing. My headstock was butchered as well and that's almost fixed. Thanks God the pickups were left in it.............I played it butchered up for nearly two years because I couldn't bear to take it down to fix it. This is a link to a guy who uses this circuit with lots of different dual humbuckers guitars and basses LINK. This a link to a thread over on the Reranch forum a guy who did the same restoration I am LINK. It's a very flexible circuit an can be adapted to a lot of options. Also, I'm told, you can use the 6-way "Superswitch" to get all the same functions as the rotary. I just like the big round switch.
If you want to know what one sounds like, here ya' go
The last one probably shows it best without effects................but the guy talks too much
In restoring my L6, except for the Q-filter I'm going back stock, not because I can use all the options (lord knows I'm a hack player at best). I want them there just in case I want to use them . Plus, I love a thin guitar (since I'm not, and will not likely be playing any gigs in the foreseeable future
That setup would be a great testbed for various combinations of series / parallel, phasing, etc. I'd really like to drop in an inductor to get the mid control, that's a great idea.
Here is a useful link for the rotary switch functions: http://alexplorer.net/guitar/mods/varitone.html
Lots of cool ideas in there, thanks Glen.
Varitones are cool, but if I recall correctly, the L6-S didn't use a Varitone. I forget exactly who, but somebody at Gibson sent me a copy of the original schematic (for free!) when I asked them about its functions in order to check mine. I don't know whatever happened to it, but is was not a Varitone.
In that first link I posted, the guy tells how he wound the inductor . I have the wiring diagram if you want it
True, it's a master volume, midrange tone (through the inductor) on the center, and treble tone on the bottom knob. Here's the diagram
Wired up it looks like this
I saw that diagram earlier while googling the circuit. I have to decide if I want to do all the switching, but I'm definitely going to do the midrange control. I guess I could throw in a rotary switch and I could always swap it out for a toggle later if it ain't the cat's pajamas ;-)
There's always the super switch approach as well. I'm just not sure about putting a strat style switch in this guitar since I'm not using a pickguard.
Just make the switch do what you want it to do. As I said in the beginning, take or leave what you want from that diagram. Have no use for all that phasing? Use it for splitting. Sure, that's not built into that diagram (those humbuckers are only two wire, not four) but alter it in a copy and build in the splitting. The best place to start is go to Stew-Mac and buy the switch. Once you see it in person, you'll be able to see better what might be possible
Update: The pages I linked to have the wiring layout of each switch..............no need to purchase the switches first
Just found this thread and your build is looking great. Just wondering where you picked up the maple for the neck. I'm in Calgary and am sourcing out all the things I need to start my first build.
Yeah I'll just figure out what I want it to do and design it. My background is electronic design. Thanks a lot for all the suggestions Dave, much appreciated! That mid control is going in for sure and most likely the rotary switch.
Hey man, thanks! Welcome to the forum!!
I've gotten all the wood so far from Windsor Plywood. The body and neck wood were both picked from lumber shorts that were piled on the floor. The maple in particular I just sifted thru the boards until I found one with the most flame. And nice and straight of course.
Make sure you post a build thread when you start. As you can see there are a lot of helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum.
Set some knobs on the template and messed with the positioning until I liked it. Drew lines for the control cavity, making sure to leave enough room for a rotary switch and steering clear of the bridge area.
Template cut and sanded / straight edges routed (I really need a spindle sander!)
Hogged out and routed the cavity in a couple passes.
Another question for the experts: I know I can figure this out once I have the pots but what thickness of wood do you guys normally leave for rear mounted electronics? I left 3/8" and I'll thin it to what I need after.
Your quite welcome , I think you'll like the mid-range control. What pickups were you planning on using?
I aim at 6mm +/-, that way depending on the pots I can thin a little with a forstner bit if I have to or add a washer
I'm going to wind my own. If you have any suggestions on what to shoot for, please fire away! I'll probably under wind them a bit compared to traditional humbuckers.
That's a good idea. Keeps the bulk of the area thicker for strength as well.