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First Build - from scratch

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by thecableguy, Mar 1, 2013.

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  1. Mar 4, 2013 #21
    guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I roundover after I do the contours and have sanded the perimeter sides. On the back side,I go almost all the way to the end on the base side near the neck hump and finish it up with a round file and dowel/sandpaper. Same with the opposite side of the neck penisula on the back side. You want the large radius to taper out to a small radius on the penisula which I do with a small file and sandpaper. It's almost like a 1/16th diameter arc there. I like to use a 1/2" radius roundover bit.

    On the top side I rout completely around it from end to end.

    It might be easier for you since it is the first time to rout the roundover before you do the contours.
     
  2. Mar 4, 2013 #22
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks GB, that's kinda what I thought. Just wanted to see how others do it. I've never seen anyone do the roundover after contouring. Sounds interesting. I imagine there are pros and cons to both ways?
     
  3. Mar 5, 2013 #23
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Time to make some sawdust...

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mar 5, 2013 #24
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Making a humbucker template...

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    Main cutouts routed...

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  5. Mar 5, 2013 #25
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    First one looks ok...

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  6. Mar 5, 2013 #26
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Note to self: don't use double sided tape twice. It doesn't stick as well the second time :p

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    No big deal. I can still use this template and I'll use it to make a non screwed up one later.
     
  7. Mar 5, 2013 #27
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Neck pup routed and it's time for bed. Good night TDPRI. :)

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  8. Mar 6, 2013 #28
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Picked up a maple board today for the neck. Should be able to get a few necks out of it.

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    It's got some nice flame

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  9. Mar 6, 2013 #29
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Routed the bridge pickup cavity

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  10. Mar 6, 2013 #30
    Bentley

    Bentley Friend of Leo's

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    lookin good!
     
  11. Mar 6, 2013 #31
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks Bentley. How's the weather in Kelowna?
     
  12. Mar 6, 2013 #32
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Started sketching out the control layout. I was thinking of putting Les Paul style electronics in it, but I'm not sure. I'm definitely going to use a LP type toggle switch. I might do 2 volumes and a master tone since I usually have the tone knobs full up on my LP.

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  13. Mar 6, 2013 #33
    Rich Rice

    Rich Rice Poster Extraordinaire

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    Nice! Bear in mind that Gibson winds their pickups pretty hot, which has an effect on the sound. If you go with a little underwound pickups you can get more clarity and definition from the guitar. Everybody seems to think mahogany is warmer sounding, but in reality, it has been quite bright with the right pickups. You would start using your tone controls in that case, and have more versatility at your fingertips.
     
  14. Mar 6, 2013 #34
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks Rich! I'm planning on winding the pups less hot than Gibson's. I'd like to try and approach single coil tone for the neck pup and a bit hotter for the bridge.
     
  15. Mar 6, 2013 #35
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Any suggestions for the control layout on this thing guys?
     
  16. Mar 6, 2013 #36
    crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    My favorite will always be the Gibson L6-S. A lot of people replace the rotary switch in the guard with a 3-way, but heck, even if you don't want the phasing controls these had, you can use the 6-way switch (Stew-Mac has 'em) for splitting options, but then again I like different :D



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  17. Mar 6, 2013 #37
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Yeah Dave, I was thinking of doing some push pulls or something for splitting. Maybe a rotary switch would be better. I think some PRS's have rotary switches as well. I also find push pull pots to be a bit annoying.
     
  18. Mar 6, 2013 #38
    crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Way ahead of ya' :)
     
  19. Mar 6, 2013 #39
    Rich Rice

    Rich Rice Poster Extraordinaire

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    I played an L6-S for a few years (mine had the original rotary switch) and just loved it. I would not have sold it, except I started noticing stability issues when performing in the wintertime. The heat would go on, the tuning would move a little. tune it between songs. Then the heat would go off, it would settle back a touch. Retune in between songs. Then somebody would come into the bar, letting the cold air blow toward the stage. Retune in between songs. The temp would drop due to the door opening and the heat would go on.. retune between songs. In a stable environment, that thing would stay in tune for weeks. Couldn't keep it in tune for three minutes during a gig. Same thing with SG's. I finally gave up on skinny bodies with set necks- never had the problem again.
     
  20. Mar 6, 2013 #40
    thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    :) That L6S schematic looks interesting. It's got a series inductor in one of the tone control circuits. That would produce a dip in the frequency response that could be moved. Cool. Might have to experiment with that a bit.
     
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