first build 5e3 - question on tubes and parts

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by agent_zed, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. BobSmith

    BobSmith Tele-Meister

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    You could do what Jim Marshall did. Use Cliff jacks, they have a shorting input jack and I think they are made in the U.K. Mojotone uses them in their Blackout 5e3.
     
  2. agent_zed

    agent_zed TDPRI Member

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    no worries finally found some https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/6.3mm-Open-Frame-Mono-Jack-Socket-with-Tip-Switched.html. Almost got my parts lists together now. Lots of different suppliers though which is a bit annoying but hey ho.

    Think the last thing on my list now is the power switches. The list i am using just states (1x) 2-lug power switch and (1x) 3-lug ground switch.

    I am pretty sure the 2 lug power switch is just a normal spst 250v rated switch (uk is 230v) but i'm not 100% sure on the second switch type (rating will still be the same).

    Is the grounding switch a spdt?
     
  3. dan40

    dan40 Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    One thing to watch out for when shopping for resistors is their actual length. Some turret and eyelet boards can have as much as a 3" spacing from one turret to the other and many 1/2 watt resistors are not long enough to span that. Most 1 watt carbon film resistors are long enough but I have bought some in the past that were too short. If you are making your own turret/eyelet board, you can adjust the spacing to work with whatever resistor you end up using. If you buy a pre-made board, make sure that your chosen resistors will work with the spacing.
     
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  4. agent_zed

    agent_zed TDPRI Member

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    thanks for the tip. I was going to go metal film but have now decided to use 1w carbon film so hopefully that should be ok for length. I'm making my own board so i can double check before drilling holes.

    I've answered the switch question as i've been reading the plans i am using (the stewmac ones) and noticed the ground switch is not actually connected to anything! they just stick it in for authenticity. So i don't need to worry about it, although I did find on another plan that uses it and it is as I thought - spdt.

    thanks
     
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  5. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    Solid core wire is really nice to insert into holes, etc.

    BUT...I would NEVER use it (again).

    Because, a few flexes and it breaks. And if it breaks inside the insulation, it's a PITA to find.
     
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  6. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Sourcing parts is a skill in itself that gets easier over time.

    Agreed, that's why I love the topcoat wire, best of both worlds.
     
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  7. Bill Moore

    Bill Moore Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    The reason I like solid core is that it will pretty much stay where you put it. Stranded will move with gravity, and maybe develop noise issues. I haven't had problems with flexing, I generally move wires around if I'm looking for noise, but haven't had trouble with breakage.
    Does the tinned stuff hold its shape better?
     
  8. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Better than non-topcoat stranded, but not as good as solid core.
     
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  9. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    ^^Exactly. That's the way to go.

    Also, for 9pin heaters, 20 ga teflon coated wire is what I use.
     
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  10. agent_zed

    agent_zed TDPRI Member

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    Think i'm going to use multi-core and see how it goes. The other thing i read was the military spec way of soldering in resistors etc where you put an extra little bend in the legs so there is room for expansion, rather than putting them in as tight as possible which could eventually break the solder.

    Don't know how necessary this is but seems like an easy enough thing to do so i don't have to worry about it ever being an issue in the future.

    I've been looking through other plans for the 5e3 and I am surprised how much they differ. I'm not too worried about authenticity so i'll stick with the ones i have but it's interesting to see the variation.
     
  11. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    Agent Zed where in the UK are you?

    I've been sourcing stuff for a few builds and I found Mouser for transformer plus a couple Vishay resistors,plus tubetown for the bulk worked well, in conjunction with Cricklewood.

    But if you're anywhere near the Lincoln, there's a great shop which has valve bases, Mullard 12AX7, 5p 1/2 W carbon resistors, mains switches including DPDT which alow us to swtich both neutral and live, you name it. Kinda unreliable working hours but I always take a diversion when I travel up north to get there.
    Image 25.jpg
     
  12. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    You guys are the best: "Cricklewood" is giving me flashbacks to Ten Years After on my AR turntable through my EPI speakers. No better way to say "1970" ... good memories.

    Zed, I like your planning; a couple things before we leave the questions above as done.

    1) Plans. Did I see you're using the StewMac plans? Very detailed, which is good. But they're new in the game. In several recent builds, oddities and ambiguities did pop up. The 5e3 is an 'easy' circuit, and in truth could be built with almost any board, tubes, caps, resistors, etc. But little wiring details, especially power and safety, but also maybe ground and lead dress, can make your build better, safer, and easier. So *where they differ* I'd compare to Rob's time-tested 5e3 plans -- oh, except you'll also want to bring yours over to EU power wiring.

    2) Wire. Wire is weirdly one of the most crucial choices in building a tweed amp, due to the narrow chassis with controls and tubes 90° to the board. The key factor is shaping the wire precisely, down in the corners, up against the chassis, heaters either under the lip or flying in overhead, etc. Look through a dozen first-build tweeds and you'll find ten or eleven have random plastic wire shapes looping everywhere.

    Either solid or stranded can work, *but in both cases it has to be the right kind.* The ordinary household wire -- of either type -- in electronics or hardware (ironmonger?) shops is often really bad for amp building. Good quality stranded wire should be pre-tinned (infinitely nicer to strip and solder, too) and in a thin flexible jacket so it can be shaped. As noted by @sds1 , good quality 22-ga solid wire is the *most* shapeable, but it has to be the good stuff. The Hoffman (?Mojo) vintage-style cloth wire in the US has never broken on me, but I don't know where you could source it in the UK, and I don't know how the tube-town cloth wire (pretinned copper?) is to work with. And in either case it's nice if you can buy It by the foot, yard, or meter. It'd be great to find it in a specialty shop and be able to test-shape a chunk. I wonder -- maybe that little shop in Lincoln. Lovely cathedral, I've heard... :)
     
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  13. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Sorry, now you have me looking at UK distributors. :D I love the idea of Cricklewood, but are those Switchcraft jacks? There are likely other good ones out there, but I've seen some UK builders complain about bendy, loosey-goosey jacks. It looks like these guys have the real deal (and I *think* this is a UK site).

    https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/electronics-c17/jack-sockets-c46/switchcraft-m37
     
  14. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey I just wanted to caution against the difference between "tinned" or "pre-tinned" wire and "topcoat" wire.

    Pretty much any of the wire we buy for amp building is copper that has a tin coating on it. This is called tinned copper, or pre-tinned copper wire. Bare copper wire would still have a copper appearance and subject to oxidation and doesn't solder as easy.

    Topcoat wire is stranded wire that has been fused together with another coating of tin. This is a timesaving feature because, as you all know, we are otherwise left to "tin" the strands together ourselves before making the connection. Boring!

    I'm no wire expert, just been shopping for the ideal wire for a year or two now. Let me know if you guys think I'm off-base here. :)
     
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  15. Bill Moore

    Bill Moore Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    I found a closed listing for "topcoat" wire on Reverb with pics. Is any available with a cloth covering?
    I've been using cloth covered wire from CE that also has a "modern" insulation layer under the cloth. I like the look, and really don't have a problem soldering, as the exposed wire gets "tinned" when is soldered to it's connection.
    When working on something with "modern" insulation, I have a lot that I bought from the "Shack years ago.
     
  16. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    I've not seen it with cloth, no. Nor have I found with with Teflon coating, just PVC. It's a harder wire to find but here are 2 USA sources:

    https://shop.amppartsdirect.com/Wire_c53.htm
    http://valvestorm.com/Products/Wire

    Notice both listings specify UL1015 -- this may be another handy way to shop for it. I believe this spec includes the 600V rating. I am still looking for a bulk supplier.

    Notice this topcoat wire is UL1007, only rated for 300V:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079CHJ2GF/?tag=tdpri-20
     
  17. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Excellent point. Your ‘topcoat' is what I think of as pretinned stranded wire. Valvestorm gets a lot of love — this may show why...

    [​IMG]

    FWIW, here's the 22ga vintage-style cloth/solid I like from Doug Hoffman...

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  18. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Aha! also on the Valvestorm site, they list hookup wire without the word 'topcoat' — and it appears to be *not* pre-tinned...


    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  19. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Yeah looks like just bare copper strands there. Boo.
     
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  20. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    I've been gently looking for wire for a future build. There's only really Modulus and Tubetown seem to stock cloth-covered. Tubetown have pretty cheap postage and are efficient. Bitsbox seem cheapest for basic PVC covered, they do a cheap bundle.

    THis is Tubetown's stock.


    I could be interested in a split order from Tubetown if that's what you fancy, I'm in London.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
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