First amp build, tweed deluxe 5e3, not working!

[YellowBoots]

I think that remaining does nothing for actual circuit but if it change bias/operating point it might cause something. Amplifiers are known to be wetted by bar liquids and puke and still keep operating

I don’t know. That nearest valve socket that received the most guts still looks pretty rough. If blasting it with the appropriate cleaner and/or compressed air doesn’t do it, I think I would be tempted to desolder and deep clean that one. It might not take as long as you think.

 

[YellowBoots]

Did you investigate the 5Y3 rectifier tube after all this? I’m curious if you have a measurable short in there. The only two pins that should have conductivity between them are 2 and 8. 4 and 6 should measure OL (open) to every other pin.

Usually we see blown fuses or blown transformers when the rectifier shorts. This is a first for me so I wonder if there is something else going on.

What value fuse do you have installed?

Have you considered backup diodes on the tube socket?

 

[chas.wahl]

A bit of background explaining why one might add "backup diodes" to the rectifier socket:

The Immortal Amplifier Mod

A well-made tube amp can last a long time, but there are a few things that can make them uneconomical to fix, as well as unreliable. If you were

www.premierguitar.com

(and just for completeness' sake, here's the 2nd installment, which is less often implemented by DIY aficionados: https://www.premierguitar.com/the-immortal-amp-mods-pt-2 ).

https://robrobinette.com/Generic_Tube_Amp_Mods.htm
and search for "Rectifier 'Backup' Diodes", where @robrob makes a slightly different case for the diodes: raising the voltage-handling capability of the "rectifier" (now somewhat hybrid) and prolonging tube rectifier lifespan.

The two diodes will make (I believe, may have this wrong) a "half-wave" rectifier, which is not quite the same output as a ("full-wave") tube rectifier (whose output is somewhat more smoothed, more DC with less ripple), but in the right circumstances would save the filter caps (and more importantly, when they've shorted and failed) the power transformer.

Though I hesitate to suggest this, being out of my depth, one way to isolate the tube rectifier as a problem would be to bypass it entirely, and wire in (temporarily) a solid-state full-wave rectifier (which can be bought as a component, properly rated) -- in that case, the 5 V heater wires from OT would be capped, unused. Output voltage would be higher than that of a tube rectifier (difference being the inherent voltage drop of the tube used), but if the problem is there (socket or rectifier tube), then it should go away when solid state rectification is used instead.