Finally - the Telejet is started

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by crazy_aussie, Oct 31, 2011.

  1. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    After nearly a year of things getting in the way, including a move all the way across the country to Sydney, the Telejet project is off an running. What's a Telejet I hear you ask? Well, it's kinda the love child of a Telecaster and a Gretsch DuoJet - chambered mahogany body, bunya pine cap, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard, TV Jones Classic pups, Savalas bridge, undecided on the tuners......finish will be black burst with chrome/stainless hardware.

    Got some pics of the raw material and the rough cut body - just have to figure out how to post them now..
     
  2. mhainz

    mhainz Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    251
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2009
    Location:
    australia
    Gday. Your build sounds interesting. Looking forward to seeing it evolve.

    Cheers.
     
  3. BennyMac

    BennyMac TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    57
    Joined:
    May 11, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    +1 can't wait to hear more bout this project. Get to it !
     
  4. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Some pictures of progress thus far.........
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Posts:
    24,480
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    Osaka, Japan
    You're going to have the grain run sideways? Don't see that often, though I'm not sure why not....
     
  6. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    I think that often when you see the grain running lengthwise it is because its 2 pieces glued together down the centre. Obviously this is a single piece of mahogany. Its a mute point really as the back will probably be painted black.
     
  7. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    17,552
    Joined:
    May 12, 2007
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    There are very good reasons why all guitars have the grain running parallel to the neck. I'd strongly advice you to do the same regardless of the build method.

    Tell me you haven't cut it out yet! :D
     
  8. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Care to share some of those reasons Nick??
     
  9. cmatthes

    cmatthes Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    405
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2006
    Location:
    DC Metro
    Kills some natural cross vibrations.
     
  10. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    17,552
    Joined:
    May 12, 2007
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    Wood is affected by humidity. It expands and contracts due to climactic conditions - but it doesn't do this evenly.

    Wood shrinks and expands in 3 main ways.

    Longitudinally, Tangentially and Radially.

    [​IMG]

    Longitudinal change is virtually nil. That is, a piece of wood that is 2 feet long will still be 2 feet long if the humidity is 40%, or 95% (change is less than 0.1%).

    But on the radius and the tangent, expansion and contraction is much more. It's the cause of fret-sprout in a neck. It can be up to a percent or two. It's why doors and windows get stuck in wet months; it's why floorboards have gaps and then don't; it's why fine joinery is expensive; it's why no one makes guitars that way.

    In your case - if your wood doesn't "cup" (which would be disastrous to your action and saddle height) - it might still shrink and expand along the length of the strings, which would make the guitar go out of tune all the time.

    Sure the cap might stop this happening, but it also might not. To save $10 of wood, is it worth it?
     
  11. eMGee

    eMGee Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,588
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2011
    Location:
    Between Fullerton and Bakersfield
    It would seem that having the woodgrain parallel to the neck would better resist the tension of the strings, whereas having the grain perpendicular would result in the wood cupping or at worst, breaking along the grain.
     
  12. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    OK, you've convinced me.... :) Lengthwise grain it'll be!!
     
  13. msfenderarg

    msfenderarg Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    2,591
    Joined:
    May 27, 2010
    Location:
    Inavandownbytheriver
    Interesting!


    Subscribed![​IMG]
     
  14. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Some progress

    OK, rough cut done with my jjigsaw - amazing what you can do with a new, high quality blade. Second shot is getting ready for routing the outside edge........more to come
     

    Attached Files:

  15. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    OK, some progress. After doing the rough cut I used a hand held router to bring the shape almost to the edge of the template. I wasn't confident enough with the router so invested in an oscillating bobbin sander and used that to create the final shape. For the Aussies out there Hare & Forbes have these on special for $165 at the moment and from my experience so far I'd give it a "highly recommended" tag.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Sorry, problems with the laptop keyboard.........

    Anyway, once the edges were clean and precise I marked out where I wanted the chambers to go and hogged out one side with a forstner bit. I then cleaned it up with the router (freehand) and the result is as you see it. Ran out of time - had to do some shopping for a dinner tonight - so that's where I've left it for today.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    2,663
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, USA

    Spot on explanation.

    I once replaced a deck that had literally pushed itself away from the house. The decking was Ipe, and it was installed in the summer with 1/8 inch gaps between boards. When it started raining in the fall, each of those deck boards "grew" in width by much more than 1/8 inch. The force was sufficient to pull the heads of the lags right through the ledger board attached to the house. Radial, and especially tangential, movement should not be underestimated. You can't work against it, you just have to design around it.

    I like the look of your mahogany blank. Looks like you'll have a beauty when you're done.
     
  18. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Age:
    71
    Posts:
    4,563
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Location:
    Queensland Australia
    Hi Crazy! You need to hook up the vac to that spindle sander big time. My spindle is the same one and I have an old Sunday Market $10.00 Hoover that sucks the goodness right out of that thing .

    Looking good so far (lah tee doh)
     
  19. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks for the tip Davecam. Was thinking of that myself.....will find a "good used" vacuum this week and hook that puppy up.
     
  20. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    124
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Report from the weekend's woodworking.....finished the chambering by hogging the majority out with a forstner bit then cleaning it up with the router. I haven't used a forstner bit before and it took a little time to find the "sweet speed". Too slow and the cut was very slow and uneven, too fast and it burned the wood and the bit!! As usual with the router I took a little at a time which always seems to get the best result and the least chace of tear outs. Then I cut the Bunya Pine cap to rough size and glued it down. Once it was dry I discovered that the join in the 2 piece cap had moved about 5mm at the front end of the body and wasn't straight down the centre line. That'll teach me for not nailing/screwing it down.....:rolleyes: Anyway, its not too much of a disaster as I don't think it'll be noticeable after the black burst finish is applied - I hope. To finish the weekend's sawdust making I rounded over the edges of the body. I decided to use a larger round over than normal - this is not meant to be a replica so I went with what I liked. And I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!! :D
     

    Attached Files:

IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.