Final prep before clear - Duplicolor Metallic

[dankilling]

Howdy- I've got a nice base coat of blue metallic Duplicolor perfect match acrylic lacquer on my USACG body, but have a few hairs and such I'd like to knock off before clear coating with Behlens nitro instrument lacquer. Can I do a light sand on this finish, or is it a bad idea? Also, what's the best solvent to clean it with before spraying the clear? Thank you!

 

[Grux]

Do NOT sand your color coat especially metallic, you will regret that decision. Napatha will clean up anything on a finish and once dried you can spray your clear.

 

[zipseattle]

Nitro Clear over Acrylic Lacquer Color

My avatar guitar is Duplicolor Metal Specks blue, with Minwax aerosol lacquer as the clear coat.

With metallics and clear coat, one way is to mist the color coat on very lightly per coat and use many coats (requires patience). This is to allow the metallic specks to land and stick at various angles, capturing and reflecting the light. If you're doing it right, the metallic color coat will have an almost imperceptible fuzziness. Then, without touching or sanding the color coat, start misting the clear on very lightly, with multiple coats. Once the clear has built up enough to capture and seal the metallic specks, then slightly heavier coats of clear can be applied.

If the initial coats of clear are too heavy, the solvents will soften the color coat, and the metallic flecks will lay down, reducing the effect. I used a lot of clear to ensure I wouldn't sand through when wet sanding and polishing.

The end result can be a very deep and rich looking metallic finish.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_fid=78013&share_type=t&share_pid=7804352

 

[dsutton24]

Usually you can just lift stray hairs off the surface with the point of an Xacto knife or the like.

 

[Vizcaster]

Sanding metallic paint will leave awful scratch marks, I believe it's cutting into the myar or mica flecs or whatever's in there.

 

[dankilling]

Thanks for all the advice, folks. Doing the final test fitting before clear. Wish me luck!(link removed)

 

[Silverface]

View attachment 448323

Whatever this is - it doesn't work

 

[dankilling]

How about this?

 

[Doublearon77]

Looking great. I'm getting ready to shoot one in duplicator burnt copper. Did it spray pretty good?

 

[dankilling]

I sprayed with the body hanging - when I tried flat I had some splattering issues. I did warm the bottles which I think helped. Good luck!

 

[Silverface]

when I tried flat I had some splattering issues. I did warm the bottles which I think helped. Good luck!

"Splattering" isn't prevented by hanging the work. It's usually a case of improper ambient temperature, a dirty spray tip, a very shallow spray angle or partial atomization - i.e. only pressing the tip part way. Aerosol tips have to be fully depressed when spraying normal coating, with the amount applied controlled by speed and distance. It makes a huge difference with metallics.

Sounds like it may actually have been one or both of the last 2 if "hanging" changed the results. But if it only "helped" check your tip and how you are spraying next time

 

[dankilling]

the finish isn't perfect, but it did shine up nicely.

 

[Slowisfast]

I used a Duplicolor metallic and it was quite a challenge.

I wouldn't sand. Like someone above me said, an exacto blade spot cleaning would be more effective, imo.

The thing I learned is that the cleaner and more pristine the spraying environment the better the finished results after it dries. It's sounds obvious, and is, but something that can be overlooked with the excitement of putting color on.

I was haphazard at first and had inclusions and whatnot.

My final couple coats I sprayed in a makeshift spray booth that worked quite well and helped to arbitrate the problems I was having in the beginning.

Last couple coats make sure they're good and wet so you get the metallic flakes to suspend properly.

That said, no more metallic for me!

 

[Silverface]

I used a Duplicolor metallic and it was quite a challenge.

I wouldn't sand. Like someone above me said, an exacto blade spot cleaning would be more effective, imo.

There's another trick with most metallics.

They generally have to be sprayed in *one* direction. It's true of all all metalflakes made specifically for guitars. The pigments actually need to "stand" with a specific orientation. If you reverse directions, wave the spray gun (or can) or change direction by even 20 or so degrees in the "pass" direction (and virtually at all in the fan angle, which usually needs to be as close to 90 degrees as possible) the metallic pattern and reflectivity with go foul.

I generally don't recommend using them until you have pretty extensive experience with both solid color and semi-transparent lacquers - and metallics require practice pieces even for many pro finishers unless they're done regularly.

 

[Slowisfast]

There's another trick with most metallics.

They generally have to be sprayed in *one* direction. It's true of all all metalflakes made specifically for guitars. The pigments actually need to "stand" with a specific orientation. If you reverse directions, wave the spray gun (or can) or change direction by even 20 or so degrees in the "pass" direction (and virtually at all in the fan angle, which usually needs to be as close to 90 degrees as possible) the metallic pattern and reflectivity with go foul.

I generally don't recommend using them until you have pretty extensive experience with both solid color and semi-transparent lacquers - and metallics require practice pieces even for many pro finishers unless they're done regularly.

That's a good word.

I jumped into the deep end of the pool straight out of the gate. Kinda wish I didn't go metallic on my first git but I can't turn back time. Came out well enough though.

If I ever do another metallic I'll remember your tip.

 

[Grux]

View attachment 454174 the finish isn't perfect, but it did shine up nicely.

Very Nice my friend, love the color!

 

[Silverface]

I jumped into the deep end of the pool straight out of the gate. Kinda wish I didn't go metallic on my first git but I can't turn back time.

Yikes! You did *beyond* great considering it was a your first project. Metallics are often trickier than extreme dye jobs, sunbursts - even mild relics. I've seen several red and gold guitars that had visible lines across the bodies that were mysteries to the owners. The whole "directional spray" subject is not very well noted - if noted at all - by manufacturers or distributors.

 

[Tommyd55]

There's another trick with most metallics.

They generally have to be sprayed in *one* direction. It's true of all all metalflakes made specifically for guitars. The pigments actually need to "stand" with a specific orientation. If you reverse directions, wave the spray gun (or can) or change direction by even 20 or so degrees in the "pass" direction (and virtually at all in the fan angle, which usually needs to be as close to 90 degrees as possible) the metallic pattern and reflectivity with go foul.

Just want to be clear here..
Are you saying metal-flake should be sprayed on in one direction, like starting with a left to right motion and instead of going back right to left while spraying stop, go back and start the next pass from the left side same as previous?
Or are you just saying don't go side to side and then top to bottom and such,

 

[Silverface]

Are you saying metal-flake should be sprayed on in one direction, like starting with a left to right motion and instead of going back right to left while spraying sto

Yes - ONE direction only. Every pass from one side to the other (or top to bottom, depending on tip orientation). Never back across (or "up" after "down") or a shift from horizontal to vertical passes. And the spray pattern needs to be kept very close to 90 degrees orientation from the main surface being sprayed.

It's not necessary with every metallic, but as most manufacturers don't publish any specific application info I suggest applying them that way every time.

It also can help with overall finish consistency. Back-and-forth passes are generally not a good idea - especially with aerosols - as less-experienced finishers have a natural tendency to "swing" just a bit with heavier application in the center. Working in only one direction takes a bit more concentration and often facilitates better technique.

Last note - It's also best to do the side color coats first (generally with all color types). This keeps the inevitable overspray from flying across and sticking to the large top and back surfaces - which are the most visible. With metallics that overspray can really foul the look of the top and back.

 

[dankilling]

A few wiring gremlins to chase down but it's almost together!