Filling unwanted holes in chassis faceplate

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by glenlivet, Jan 27, 2020.

  1. glenlivet

    glenlivet Tele-Meister

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    Hi all,

    I have a steel chassis that I'm getting finished up...(maybe), and was wondering if there is a "best" solution to filling a couple of unwanted holes.

    holes1.png

    I was thinking about maybe just slapping a piece of cardboard behind them and then seeing if I could pack them full of JB Weld ... and hope for the best....

    I *plan* on just cleaning up the chassis and giving it a paint job, so the patches need to be *fairly* smooth or at least something I can sand smooth and cover with a couple coats of primer.
    Or should I just look for some cool stickers.....
     
  2. Whatizitman

    Whatizitman Friend of Leo's

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    The Multivox amp in my avatar.... Where it says Combo Bass Amp. That's just a thick sticker covering up two additional holes for pots. The chassis was the same as was used for the tremelo guitar version. There's even a empty hole for the extra tube.

    That was a production amp. A cheap one, albeit. But a prod amp, nonetheless. :D
     
  3. charlie chitlin

    charlie chitlin Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    There are chrome or stainless buttons that are made to snap into holes.
    Big box hardware stores usually have them in the hardware section with the nuts and bolts.
     
  4. Splodgeness

    Splodgeness Tele-Meister

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    I've filled holes like this by sticking painters tape (masking tape) over the hole at the front and then dribbling in epoxy from behind. Gives a smooth finish when it's set and you remove the tape and the epoxy overlap behind the hole makes for some structural rigidity and a larger adherance surface, if that makes sense? (be careful to avoid air bubbles in the epoxy though)
     
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  5. Peegoo

    Peegoo Tele-Holic

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    Splodgeness Abounds!



    If that were my project I'd cut a new face plate from sheet aluminum, sheet Bakelite, thin Plexiglas, etc.), stick it on with 3M double-stik film, and drill from the back for the controls I want on there.
     
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  6. Wyatt

    Wyatt Tele-Afflicted

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    That's not a faceplate just a chassis. I would use a faceplate (printed, painted, powdercoated, etched, plain or whatever) to cover the whole thing.Nice, easy uniform with less effort than painting the chassis. Paint would probably just chip off the chassis anyway, that's why companies powdercoat them.
     
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  7. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Add a presence control :D
     
  8. Preacher

    Preacher Friend of Leo's

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    I agree with the guys above. I have an Epi VJR that I have chopped up so many times adding and changing the elements on the front.

    I have used laminate that I put a sticker sheet over, thin polished aluminum that I was able to cut with a razor blade but it had enough thickness that it did not show the holes, and lastly a a printed label under a piece of lexan. I figured the printed label could be changed when I go to modding it and the lexan was cheap and easy to replace. It also lets me be a little creative with the label where I can add some graphics.
     
  9. jtcnj

    jtcnj Tele-Holic

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    +1 on the box stores.
    Lowes has black plastic plugs I have used in the drawers marked "specialty Automotive" or something similar.
     
  10. Old Deaf Roadie

    Old Deaf Roadie Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    If you are painting it, I would suggest placing a backing plate of light sheet metal and secure it with copious amounts of CA glue. Then, fill it from the from the front with Bondo or fiberglass and sand smooth.
     
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  11. glenlivet

    glenlivet Tele-Meister

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    Hummmmm OK...since a lot of people are saying "faceplate" .... anyone have a link (or pics) to a good walk through of how best to skin that cat ?? (I'm sure there a are lots of ways...)

    Not opposed to it for any reason...(a faceplate that is...) ... but my metal working skills are somewhat lacking (the term "caveman" comes to mind...). I mean ... I can break s*** but detail work (like cutting a straight line :) ) is probably above my still set.....
     
  12. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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  13. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    Get a custom plastic faceplate. Not that expensive.
    I don't know if Sandy is still in business but here's the email I have: SimplifySandy@aol.com https://www.precisiondesignin.com/

    However I have filled chassis holes with JB Weld by putting wax paper on both sides backed up by a small piece of wood and clamped together until hard.


    She made this one IIRC:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2020
  14. muchxs

    muchxs Doctor of Teleocity

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    HPIM3024 (2).JPG
     
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  15. glenlivet

    glenlivet Tele-Meister

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    Dime it ???
     
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  16. Wyatt

    Wyatt Tele-Afflicted

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    Doesn't have to be metal. You may have a friend who woodworks, or you can cut a sheet of styrene from a hobby shop, or you can go to a trophy shop a for something acrylic.

    Of course, if you have a steady hand...there is always just aluminum HVAC tape.
     
  17. ce24

    ce24 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Decals!!!
     
  18. BobbyZ

    BobbyZ Doctor of Teleocity

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    If it's bare and unplated you could weld it up or maybe go old school body man and use solder.
    If you don't do those things right you'll warp the heck out of it. :)
     
  19. separateness

    separateness TDPRI Member

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    I used very short button head bolts on my single channel Twin. I tried the little pop in holes but they vibrated and it bothered me. You can just see them in my profile picture.
     
  20. glenlivet

    glenlivet Tele-Meister

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    Patched the holes with a small/thin piece of scrap metal "JB Welded" to the back...
    Let it dry / set.
    The filled the hole from the front with more JB Weld.
    Sanded, applied 2nd coat of JB Weld, sanded again, dabbed on a fairly thick coat of enamel primer to fill any small divots etc... sanded again.

    Rolled on 2nd primer coat.

    let it dry.....quick light sanding.....

    and rolled on first coat of flat black enamel.

    I think it turned out pretty good.



    holes.png


    patched.png







    paint1.png
     
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