Filling body holes to drill new ones

[AbleMob]

Any suggestions on best way to fill 2 body holes where the bridge mounts to drill new ones? It's on a Monoprice/Indio tele caster. The "Modern" bridge to replace the existing one is nearly perfect, but 2 mounting holes don't quite line up. They're about a hole diameter off which I know is an issue in trying to drill new where it wants to find it's way into the old hole. I was thinking of slow set epoxy to completely fill the existing hole, where that would be hard enough so the new pilot and hole would be less likely to 'skip" over into the old hole. The other option is an 1/8" or 3/32" dowel, but I'm concerned that the drill will want to find the "gap" where the dowel edge meets the edge of the old hole. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Much thanks.

 

[telemnemonics]

Dowel glued in well and left to dry a day. I use 3/32" for guard screws but not sure the bridge screw size.
String through?
Or do two screws take all the string tension?
To keep the new hole from drifting you can start it with a smaller bit, or drill a block then place the block where you want the new hole.

 

[Ricky D.]

Use drill bits as a gauge to measure your hole diameter.

Definitely dowel the old holes, epoxy would be too hard.

 

[Peegoo]

If you don't have a drill press: make yourself a drill guide and clamp it to the body when you go to drill the new holes.

A drill guide is any hard, relatively thin material with a hole drilled in it that matched the drill bit you will use. It prevents the drill from being diverted by wood grain or wandering into softer material.

In the below bic I'm using a drill guide made from a scrap of 3/16" thick poplar to keep a 5/8" diameter Forstner bit centered on an exixting 3/16" hole in a piece of leopardwood that will become a knife handle.

The counterbored hole to the left shows the result of using the guide.

 

[nojazzhere]

Any suggestions on best way to fill 2 body holes where the bridge mounts to drill new ones? It's on a Monoprice/Indio tele caster. The "Modern" bridge to replace the existing one is nearly perfect, but 2 mounting holes don't quite line up. They're about a hole diameter off which I know is an issue in trying to drill new where it wants to find it's way into the old hole. I was thinking of slow set epoxy to completely fill the existing hole, where that would be hard enough so the new pilot and hole would be less likely to 'skip" over into the old hole. The other option is an 1/8" or 3/32" dowel, but I'm concerned that the drill will want to find the "gap" where the dowel edge meets the edge of the old hole. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Much thanks.

I have used the wood glue and matchsticks method many times. Use a punch (or ice pick) to start holes before actually drilling. That way you have better control.

 

[AbleMob]

Dowel glued in well and left to dry a day. I use 3/32" for guard screws but not sure the bridge screw size.
String through?
Or do two screws take all the string tension?
To keep the new hole from drifting you can start it with a smaller bit, or drill a block then place the block where you want the new hole.

It's just the two holes in front that are off; the three mounting ones in the back line up. It's a string-thru body.

 

[Freeman Keller]

I would drill the holes to fit a dowel and glue that in with wood glue. If your new screws go into that they will be in end grain, not quite as strong as the original side grain. You can do side grain but you will have to cut the insert or turn it on a lathe or drill press.

Anytime you drill a hole in wood you should center punch where it is going to be located and use a brad point bit which will want to center in the punch hole. You can use a brad point bit that just fits the hole in your bridge as a center punch.

 

[AbleMob]

Dowel glued in well and left to dry a day. I use 3/32" for guard screws but not sure the bridge screw size.
String through?
Or do two screws take all the string tension?
To keep the new hole from drifting you can start it with a smaller bit, or drill a block then place the block where you want the new hole.

And I could only find 1/8" hardwood at the craft store, I'll sand it down a bit because 3/32" looks like that will work.

 

[guitarbuilder]

I'd use flat unwaxed toothpick tips over dowel. When you tap and glue them in you'll get some side grain when they slide together. Dowels are end grain and have little holding power for screws. In your case you are using 4/6 originals but that's still the approach I'd take. Same thing for strap buttons. Strap buttons are usually the screws that fall out because of the end grain.

 

[telemnemonics]

And I could only find 1/8" hardwood at the craft store, I'll sand it down a bit because 3/32" looks like that will work.

I'm sorry, my head was doing too many things.
1/8" or 5/32" are what I generally use for dowels to relocate body holes.
But like @guitarbuilder said, dowel end grain isn't really strong, so I only use it for non stressed fastenings like guard screws, which IMO includes the front of the plate screws.

If screws take string tension or hold the neck on, I do not dowel the holes when there's a problem.

 

[1 21 gigawatts]

Don't overthink this. Wood glue and round toothpicks for small holes. Wood glue and golf tees for medium sized ones. Wood glue and an appropriate sized dowel for larger ones.

Put glue on it, tap it in the the hole, let it dry, then trim off the excess.

 

[middy]

I would use a bunch of glue and toothpicks rather than a dowel. Much stronger than end grain.

 

[chucker]

old carpenter stuff. cross cut a ~ half inch piece off some soft wood, poplar or construction material. you can then split that on the end grain with a chisel very easily. take a split and carefully shave it to a taper with a razor knife. that can be lightly hammered into the hole with yellow glue and will be ready to work with in an hour.
as mentioned center punch the new hole where you want it. most don't have brad point drills. drill the center punched hole with a small twist drill to minimize drift, and then the correct sized drill for the screw.
carpenters have a variety of ways for dealing with situations that cost nothing past the materials and refuse on hand.

 

[Peegoo]

And I could only find 1/8" hardwood at the craft store, I'll sand it down a bit because 3/32" looks like that will work.

Wooden golf tees are usually maple or beech...pretty hard stuff and holds screws parallel to end grain exceedingly well. You can chuck one into a hand drill and spin it while pinching the wood with some 120-grit sandpaper to reduce the outer diameter.

Anytime you use a golf tee to plug a hole, at least scuff it with 120 to give the shiny finish some 'tooth' so the glue holds well.

 

[oldunc]

The best would be a plug cut cross grain in a piece of similar wood- if you have a plug cutter. With dowels or matchsticks you'll be drilling into end grain which behaves quite differently. A drill press, or one of those devices for holding a hand drill, would be a huge help, but you've gotta go with what you have. A Forstner bit is by far your best bet, as once the hole is started (a starter block could help) it is guided by its rim; with a brad point or similar bit you will be in danger of the center of the bit being pulled off line by the difference in materials. You might also consider a brace and bit or other hand drill- with a power drill if things go south it will probably happen too fast to stop it, even at pretty low speed. It's a long shot, but a plunge router with the right size straight bit, clamped in place, would do a good job.

 

[AbleMob]

Thanks all. I filled with a dowel and glued it. Let it cure 24hrs before marking a new center mark with a sharp punch (using the bridge as a template) and carefully drilled a 1/16" pilot and 3/32" finish holes with hand held drill. Worked great. The bridge has 5 mounting holes, it was only the 2 closest to neck that needed redoing. Just a note if anyone is thinking of modding one of these Indio/Monoprice teles: The "modern bridge" I ordered looks like it would fit a Squier perfectly from a mounting perspective, but the bridge is slightly different from the stock one. Also the string spacing of the new bridge seems slightly off by about 1/16", not matching the 54mm of the Squier or this body. I love the candy apple red and bought the Indio because of that. I could not find a Squier in this color or one I liked. (I already have the "surf green" FSR bullet).

 

[hamerfan]

I use wood dowels (5mm and up) or skewers made of hardwood (beech or bamboo) as filler. Matchsticks are way too soft.