Sounds like things are not going as smoothly as you would like. A few random comments
- I had never seen that ultimate scraper thing until I followed your link. Looks pretty, well, ultimate. I have some nice cheap card scrapers that I bought somewhere (maybe Grizzly) and one very nice quality cabinet scraper that was gifted to me by a cabinet maker. I clamp them in a vice, flatten the edge, then roll the burr as is shown in a bazillion videos. I put more aggressive burrs on some for carving wood and less aggressive for final smoothing just before finish. Mine aren't ultimate but they work pretty darn well.
- I do have the StewMac floating binding router jig and the cradle, but I wouldn't use them for a tele. A tele can be routed either on a router table or with the router sitting on top of the body - either works, each has advantages. If you ever decide to build a guitar with something other than a flat top you'll want the floating gizmo - there just isn't another good way. I've modified the cradle for smaller bodied guitars and yes, some cutaways are pretty tight.
- A router table is handy for some other things so its good to build (or buy). Just doing truss rod channels paid for mine.
- I don't allow any wax (or silicon or oils) near my guitars. They simply ruin any chance of spraying any of the finishes that I use. I know there are wax finishes, I've never used them. For polishing I use wax and silicon free commercial products.
Definitely not going smoothly, but I'm learning a lot. My goal has been to standardize so I can build really nice T (and E) styles in various colors, really efficiently and using only all natural finishing products. This project is a perfect example of how one customization (binding in this case) can add an exponential amount of time and cost to a project.
I think the basic StewMac binding scraper might work more like a cabinet scraper, taking advantage of the burr. It seems like an art getting these dialed in. If going the cabinet scraper route, I would probably pick up the StewMac burnisher... just to tighten the learning curve.
The best way to give your scraper blades micro-sharp edges, for ultra-smooth wood surfaces.
Carnauba wax is quite hard, but I understand the concern of having it on a router table top where you will be rubbing the workpiece around. Because I only work in spirit varnish it shouldn't be an issue.
Edgar Russ, a violin maker living and teaching in Cremona Italy, actually uses shellac that has not been dewaxed. When he started he searched out the highest quality dewaxed shellac. After years of building, he now uses the bottom of the barrel stuff, and believes the small amount of wax can actually improve the finish. He discusses it here (and gives away his secret formula, similar to mine):
I also just came across this piece of info that I need to do some research into. My finishes are sensitive to alcohol and turpentine so this interests me:
"Carnauba wax can form solvent resistant superhydrophobic films from selfemulsifying mixtures with alcohol emulsions. These films are resistant to solvent etching by chloroform, toluene, acetone, and alcohols ."