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Fender MIM vs Warmoth necks

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by JSMac, Oct 25, 2020.

  1. Steve Holt

    Steve Holt Tele-Afflicted

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    They're not slotted to the proper depth. What's the proper depth? There is no proper depth until it's strung up and all other fretwork is done. They can't go too deep because the strings will sit on the frets on some guitars. The warmoth neck I bought had the strings at about .030" above the first fret. I like my strings at around .015" - .022" above the first fret. And it's crazy the difference it makes in feel, comfort, and playability.

    So yeah. The nut will be cut and you'll be able to string it and play it, but being able to drop the strings to your preferred height really takes it over the edge. You may prefer them higher and the warmoth nut may already be too low.

    It's really all personal preference.
     
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  2. tfarny

    tfarny Friend of Leo's

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    I've had more than a dozen and none of them needed a full fret job - a few spots here and there, and the beveled edge that I prefer. The nuts always need a touch up (they are high and tight, like a new Gibson) but if you can do fret work you can do nut work.
     
  3. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    It looks like by choosing one of the in-stock necks I can get everything I want, including finish, for about $270. A Fender MIM is $250-$300 and I would have no options.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
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  4. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    I've used a lot of Tusq nuts and never had an issue with the string slots. They are slotted to the proper depth for a set of 10s. However the I've had to file or shim to get the height right, depending how the slot in the neck is cut and you don't know what that height is until you string up the guitar. That's why I'd install one myself rather than have them do it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
  5. Jakedog

    Jakedog Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Edit: never mind. It’s not worth it. If you can’t tell the difference, buy the MIM. I’m sure you’ll love it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
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  6. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    How would I know if I can't tell the difference? That's why I'm here to ask questions and to learn.
     
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  7. 4wotitswurth

    4wotitswurth TDPRI Member

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    Guess I have a thing about necks. Being a lefty it’s hard to find a US one from fender. So I went the MIM way. First apology... this is a strat (I do have a nice tele too so go easy). Second apology, this doesn’t really answer the original question, I’ve never tried a warmoth neck. That said, I uploaded one of the recent necks I got MIM $199. Yes I didn’t sand off the nut edges, but apart from that, I was truly gobsmacked at the quality... or maybe I’m just easily pleased ;) oh and I did only the tee and a bit of nut filing, that’s all....
     

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  8. Asmith

    Asmith Friend of Leo's

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    Where are you looking at buying your MIM neck/what model? I've seen them cheaper than $250.
     
  9. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    i was looking at the Classic Series 50s and the Fender 51 at $299. The Standard series is $249. There is a Vintera roasted maple at $349. Fender and thestratosphere are about the same price.

    But again, I wouldn't be getting all the features that I want with any of them.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
  10. RomanS

    RomanS Poster Extraordinaire

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    Their standard "Modern Pro" necks do have two-way truss rods!

    In total, I own 6 Warmoth necks - so I feel qualified commenting about their fretwork and nuts:

    - NONE of these six necks needed a fret levelling, they all were perfectly playable out of the box; maybe not PLEK-like levelling, but neither are most production guitars... I did bevel the fret ends on a couple of necks, Warmoth leaves them pretty straight to the edge, to give you as much playing surface as possible. As I mentioned, I ordered all of my necks with stainless steel frets - maybe it's different with regular nickel frets.

    - I also ordered all six necks with pre-cut nuts, some Graphtec, some of their own Corian ones. One of the six needed some serious nut work, the others only minor adjustments - but then, I do some minor nut work on pretty much every guitar I buy...
     
  11. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    I've gotten a lot of useful info here folks, and I appreciate it.

    I'm getting close to making a decision but...gloss or satin over vintage tint? :)
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
  12. Steve Holt

    Steve Holt Tele-Afflicted

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    Sorry, I'm gonna respectfully ask you to prove it. Are you talking about the "double expanding" truss rod?

    Screenshot_20201026-174423_Chrome.jpg

    I love their tag in there that such truss rods are not necessary in a properly designed and constructed necks. Ask them why they had to replace my neck because it had a tiny amount of back bow. Sorry I just can't get on board when almost every other manufacturer offers a two way rod.
     
  13. doghouseman

    doghouseman Tele-Meister

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    Agreed. I have built about 10 warmoth guitars and I never did any fret leveling.

    The nuts I have gotten were fine for whatever strings they were supposed to be cut for.

    No problems and top notch quality from warmoth.
     
  14. doghouseman

    doghouseman Tele-Meister

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    in your head man....
    satin feels like bare wood. i like it best.
     
  15. gregulator450

    gregulator450 Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    I think you're getting into apples vs. oranges comparing a MIM neck to a Warmoth. Warmoth necks are typically designed to be shredders: compound radius fretboards and their stock neck profile is a modern feeling thin neck. A Fender neck is just a classic Fender neck. I think that quality-wise you might get a little higher quality from a Warmoth, but that's just my opinion. I own one Warmoth neck and have worked on a few Warmoth builds, and I think they are good value for the money even though they can get pricey really quickly when you start tacking on available options.

    So, I would look at what you want the neck to do for you and base your buying decision on that. If you like exotic woods, different frets and a different radius than what comes on a Fender, Warmoth is your better option. If you like the feel and playability of a MIM neck that comes in your preferred specs, go that route. Both companies will stand behind their product.
     
  16. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    The Warmoth neck that I'm considering is pretty much Fender vintage specs. 7.25" straight radius, 1 5/8" nut width.
     
  17. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I’ve had a few of each.
    In general Warmoth makes better necks but a great MIM can be better than a not so great Warmoth.
    My sense is that neck wood used to be chosen more carefully but now the wood supply has diminished, making the stock more expensive, and I see wood in both brands that would have gone in the wood stove 20 years ago.
     
  18. Jakedog

    Jakedog Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Sorry. That wasn’t directed at you. I typed a big, long entry outlining all the ways that they aren’t even remotely comparable products, but it never matters around here. Between the MIM fanboys and the squier nuts there’s just no point.

    I have no idea how it happens, or how it’s even possible given the gigantic, glaring, and obvious differences in quality between these things and really nice products, but I have come to the conclusion that there are people out there who legitimately can’t tell the difference. That’s what I was addressing.

    I won’t lie, sometimes I wish I were one of them. It would save me a lot of money.
     
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  19. JSMac

    JSMac Tele-Meister

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    I hear ya. I've done the same thing on one subject or another and decided it just wasn't worth my effort. And I would appreciate any further input.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
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  20. YYZman

    YYZman TDPRI Member Silver Supporter

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    One neat feature from Warmoth is the side truss rod adjustment on the vintage-modern construction necks.

    It’s not meant for the major setup work, but for fine tuning the setup once everything is together. Also very handy if you have a 22 frets.
     
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