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Faux Suede on cab - Glue/Technique suggestions?

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by Telekarster, Apr 20, 2021.

  1. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey all! Well... I did exhaustive research for hours trying to find an answer but couldn't find anything that really tackled my questions, so hoping someone out here on good old TDPRI can help. I'm in the process of building my first speaker cabinet, in the D style, and would really like to use a faux suede. I'm thinking upolstery fabric i.e. the cloth backed stuff thinking it will lessen the chances of bleed through, however maybe I don't need to go to such extremes? Which leads to my question:

    Do you guys have a recommendation on what sort of glue to use for this type of covering? I've heard of something called Mod Podge? Don't know if that's good enough or not. Also 3M 77, Gorilla, 581, etc. in spray glues. Have also read some people use plain old Elmers glue? My main concerns is bleed through, strength, and work time.

    Also, any technical advice regarding glue application e.g. spray, roller, brush on, etc. would be greatly appreciated as well, and thanks in advance all!
     
  2. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Gorilla spray is not good enough. Maybe 3M 90 over 77. I use automotive headliner spray from an upholstery shop. I am in California so all of the good stuff has been banned or reformulated.
    Ime Youtube Uncle Doug has the best method with spray and brush/roll on.
     
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  3. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks for your reply! 90 over 77? Do you mean I would spray the case with 90, and the cloth with 77? Yeah I watched Uncle Dougs videos and very informative, but I'm concerned that if I use his method then I might experience bleed through, but perhaps I'm being overly cautious?
     
  4. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Sorry, I wasn't clear... The 3M has a high strength 90 and a not as strong 77. I have had too many experiences with the glue bond lifting a day to two weeks after application. I want a strong bond that will hold. Given the choice between good and better stickum, I choose better every time.
    I would definitely try your chosen method on the material before the final installation. The good thing about spray on contact cement is that it can be put on the material in a couple of coats. It doesn't have to soak in. Before it is stuck to the cabinet, the contact cement should no longer be in a liquid state. It should not stick to, let's say a piece of paper, when it is ready to make contact with the cabinet.
    The problem *you* may have with contact cement is that it sticks on contact. You want to get it right the first time it is laid down. There is very little to no work time. You can usually get enough work time to fix each corner but that is about it.

    For perfectionists, the rattle can contact cement spray nozzle loads up. It may not spray an even coat. Particularly the edges of the *fan* will spray extra cement forming a line. This line of extra cement will be seen as a line in the finished surface (tolex).
    Keep the nozzle clean.;) I mention this to you because it may be even more pronounced with the material you are using.
     
  5. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks again! Yes, it sounds like I will need to do some tests first as I definitely don't want it lifting back up etc. and plus I'll need some practice I suppose. I want it to be a permanent stick for sure. So just to make sure I'm understanding - I want to put the contact cement on the cab, spray the fabric with the 90, and marriage the 2 together (like Uncle Doug's video shows) is that correct?
     
  6. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Holic

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  7. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Yes.

    After the two pieces are coated you wait. If you wait too short or too long the glue will not bond optimally. If you wait too long, essentially the two sides will not stick. Re-coating the pieces will bring them back to being able to stick again.

    Basically, it should *just be dry to the touch*. You can feel the stickiness but none comes off on your hand. Iirc Uncle Doug suggests just before the glue gets to this state. With the material you are using, I would not want the glue in a gelatinous liquid state for fear it may bleed through.

    The glue on the material will dry quicker than the glue on the cabinet. Try to apply the glue so each side is ready to stick at the same time.

    I would probably spray the material lightly. Wait for it to set up to that *just dry* state (or maybe a little longer) and then spray it again. Doing it like that will give a barrier so it does not soak into the material.
     
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  8. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks man! This is exactly what I needed, and greatly appreciate your help! Gotcha! I'll post some pics of the build when I'm done so ya'll can see what I've been up to :)
     
  9. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    I have gone to common wood glue; Titebond or whatever. More forgiving, longer work time, you dont have to coat the cab and the cloth.....

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey @schmee ! Thanks man. For some reason I'm not getting notifications when someone replies to my thread. Appreciate your reply! So do you simply coat the part of the cab you're about to apply the fabric to, one section at a time or? Also, any tricks I should be aware of regarding the prevention of bleed through if I use the wood glue? I'm quite familiar with Titebond products so I suppose that's a plus. Thanks!
     
  11. radiocaster

    radiocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    I don't have glue recommendations, but don't put fabric if you have cats.
     
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  12. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    I would test a piece to see if the glue bleeds through your fabric or not.
    This takes quite a bit of glue, dont run short.

    I put a bunch of glue on a flat side or two, use a straight edge spreader to spread it around the side I'm working, or as many sides as I can handle. then apply tolex to the flat side and continue to do this all around the cab. Small cabs can be one piece of Tolex, big cabs may be 4 pieces like Fender usually does.
    Apply the glue to the flat surface,
    [​IMG]
    ....then the Tolex. Smooth it out well with your hand/palm or etc.. The glues starts to dry fairly fast, so keep working.:
    [​IMG]
    You can now do each rounded edge one at a time. Add glue liberally and smooth it uniformly with a small paint brush: THIS VIEW IS INSIDE THE CAB. (optical illusion?) Wrap it wround tightly, Glue it, staple it. Cut excess later.
    [​IMG]
    Edges at corners etc:
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    LOL!!! Yep! It went MC Ecsher on my eyes! Thanks for pointing that out, now I get it! Appreciate your info! I'll try a couple diff methods suggested here and test, test, test before I tackle the real deal ;)
     
  14. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    Yeah it's weird isn't it? I looked at it and went: "WTF was I doing here?" :lol::eek:
     
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  15. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    :lol::lol::lol::lol::D
     
  16. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    Finished product, this was that gnarly rough blonde tolex.:
    [​IMG]
     
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