F hole route advice.

[Telecastermusic]

I am in the process of building a thin line style tele. I have the body shaped and chambered. I have a maple cap marked out and ready to glue to the main body, which is ash. A couple of questions: should I glue the top on and then route the F hole or rout F first and then glue? What is the best way to route the F hole? I have a template, and was thinking about using a 1/4" flush trim router bit on my table router. Any tips or advice, would be great. Thanks in anticipation. [emoji4]

 

[guitarbuilder]

Whenever I have done it, it is after I glued the top to the body. I use the stew mac 3/8 bit and then get the middle out with a thin hobby saw and sand to the line with sandpaper on a popsicle stick.

 

[the_lyall]

Sir I applaud you even getting as far as you have! I would never have the guts (or skill, or equipment, or anything) to attempt a thinline

I have no tips or advice so this comment is worthless, but I do admire your skill and I wish you the best with the build!

 

[Telecastermusic]

 

[adirondak5]

I used a 1/4" spiral bit and let the shank ride the template , after the top was glued on









You can do the f-holes before you glue the cap on and lots of folks do it that way , you just need a method to index the top to the body .

 

[Telenator]

Personally, I like to do the routing first, then glue it on. If I mess up the piece, I can just start a new one. If it's glued down, it means I've boogered up the body and it's a lot harder to fix. Routing the piece first also allows me to do a great job smoothing and sanding the F hole because I have unlimited access to it from both sides.

 

[mikeyb]

Ditto Telenator!

I use a Whiteside 1/4" flush trim spiral bit and rout the f-hole with the pattern over the top. Also a good idea to round over the inside of the f-hole before you glue it and don't forget to finish the hollow before you glue it together. I usually use shellac but sometimes use stain. I have a thinline cab from Fender that is painted inside to match the outside and a Squire thinline that is flat black inside.

Please leave the top oversize and do the profile routing after the glue-up.

 

[doncha_magoso]

looking cool

 

[RogerC]

I've done it using my patented by-the-seat-of-my-pants method.

I don't have a template, so I just print off an image, spray glue it to the right spot, drill out most of the waste, then go at it with a rotary saw bit. I finish it with small sanding blocks.

 

[RickyRicardo]

For my Brainy memorial build I routed it with the top off. I figured it would be easier to fix if something went wrong. I used a 1/4" bit and let the shaft ride the template. This was my first and only time so far so I had weigh what might work better for me. It turned out great.

 

[ndeli55]

I agree with the 1/4 inch bit using the shaft as a bearing surface.
I prefer routing after so I can ensure proper placement.

If you'd prefer sharper corners, an 1/8" bit and oversized template works well. That's how this was done:

 

[moose13]

I recently did my first F hole. I did the first one on a piece of scrap. Drilled the holes at the ends, then simple cut the rest with a jig saw, smooth out with a dremel. A little sanding and it was done. I was going to route the hole in the guitar but i ended up doing it the exact same way. Worked perfect and only took a few minutes. I opted to cut it before glueing to the top. If you do it before glueing you can nicely mask off the hole from the underside.

I

 

[ndeli55]

I recently did my first F hole. I did the first one on a piece of scrap. Drilled the holes at the ends, then simple cut the rest with a jig saw, smooth out with a dremel. A little sanding and it was done. I was going to route the hole in the guitar but i ended up doing it the exact same way. Worked perfect and only took a few minutes. I opted to cut it before glueing to the top. If you do it before glueing you can nicely mask off the hole from the underside.

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You always remember your first, eh?

 

[Telecastermusic]

Thanks everyone. Does anyone see a problem with me using a two flute 1/4" flush trim bit on the router table, or is a spiral flush trim bit essential?

 

[guitarbuilder]

Thanks everyone. Does anyone see a problem with me using a two flute 1/4" flush trim bit on the router table, or is a spiral flush trim bit essential?

If I had a 1/4" 2 flute, I'd do it. Try it on scrap first! Just go a hair slower.

 

[Telecastermusic]

Will give it a try on scrap first. Cheers.

 

[RickyRicardo]

I used the 2 flute bit and it was fine. If you can get a spiral bit though I'd do it.

 

[Reckless Rat]

I have one of these little things.

http://www.precisionbits.com/solid-...-bit-spiral-upcut-1-4-shank-yonico-14121.html

I've got quite a bit of use out of it, with the caveat that you need to treat it gently! That little 1/4" bearing isn't infinitely strong, so take very small bites and check bearing rotation every time you use it (if in doubt, add light oil).

In terms of cutting an F-hole, I do it before glue-up. Mark, drill, cut away as much waste as possible, then gently free-hand it on the table (!). Depending on the wood, I'm coming around to just using a sharp chisel to clean up and steering clear of the router. I did some f-holes recently in maple. It's only 1/4" thick, so with a solid surface under you it's not a big deal. Then sand to taste using sandpaper glued to an ice-cream stick (and DEFINITELY not your wife's disposable nail files. I would NEVER do that. Cough. )

 

[Telecastermusic]

Marked and cut maple top on band saw. With some waste maple, I marked out the f hole. I removed as much as possible with fostner bits and wood drills. I drilled from the top, almost through, then tuned over and finished the hole from the other side. I did this to avoid chipping/tear out. ( I learnt the hard way!!![emoji53]). Then I removed as much as possible with the fret saw.
Once I had done this, I attached the maple to my template and used the 1/4" flush trim bit on the router table. I worked slowly removing tiny amounts at a time.
The result was ok, but with the following issues:-
A) the finished wasn't totally even. On re inspection of my template, I think the problem was a poorly finished template. I rectified this in readiness for my second attempt.
B) there was some tear out on one of the 'pointy bits' at the end of the F.

 

[Telecastermusic]

C) there is a fair bit of router burn evident. Any advise re this please. Is it just a cheap router bit?, am I going too slow/ too fast?
Should I adjust the speed on my router!