Eric's Burly Brotherhood Build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by eallen, Mar 27, 2020.

  1. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Beautiful That body is just plain "delicious"!!

    One thing to take under consideration is that your cherry is going to noticeably darken over time...a year or more from now it will be much darker than it is now. It's the nature of cherry. :)
     
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  2. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Thanks. I dont get that said about my body very often!

    Yes, that is one thing I like about cherry. It is always possible 2 pieces of cherry differing shades could end up the same in a year or so. My neck stock has been air dried for years. In my experience air and kiln tend to change at a slightly different rate. The body on this one is kiln so it is a gamble on shades ending up different or the same over time. Maple solves that dilemma. But cherry necks are gorgeous!

    Eric
     
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  3. Deeve

    Deeve Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    Vicarious thrill for me to read along on this build.
    Thanks for sharing it.
    Peace - Deeve
     
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  4. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Not much to add. Final coats of nitro on the body. Final on neck hopefully tomorrow to finish burying the decal.

    Had to take a break to run over to my sons shop to look at a car he has been the only one privileged to work on in over a decade. All original down to original paint. 68 Camero SS COPO 427 convertible! 88,000 actual miles without a spec of rust on it or under it. A good friend who isn't a car buff and will never drive it inherited it from his original owner grandfather who has had it in the garage for 30 years except periodic drive round the block. It has the original 396 badges from the factory since the 427 motor wasn't allowed by the factory except for central office order so they installed the 427 outside the factory walls at a couple select dealers.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Eric
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2020
  5. kwcsports

    kwcsports Tele-Meister

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    Wow, nice old Camaro
     
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  6. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Wow man. That guitar is just gonna look totally rad! I’m actually lost for words.
     
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  7. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Time for a little buffing! I know, there are some who don't have to wetsand Well, I'm not one of them on this one. Did a little 1000-1500 wet with naptha.

    Over to the buffer. One medium. One fine...
    With all the color variations in the top I found it hard to see any pits and have a few drop fills to do.

    While I am waiting on the neck to be ready...what to do about pup rings and knobs? Contemplated the easy route of chrome or black for them. I contemplated total black epoxy with same gunmetal pearl mixed in.

    Of course why take the easy way out? I have a remnant peice of the same burl left. But I also want some of the epoxy mixed in. My blank is about 3/8" so overthick for pup rings so I can thin it down. A stacked section it will be tall enough for knobs.

    The burl has very angled sides after removong the bark. So I hacked together a quick epoxy pour frame for each. Caulked the seams, and waxed up the surfaces to keep it from sticking, hopefully.

    Mixed up my epoxy with some black pearl and glow and poured it in. Unfortunately, I don't have enough regular epoxy for the pour so I had to use some deep pour which takes 72 hours to cure. A new meaning to boring as watching paint dry. I had a slight leak so I had to add some caulking.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Eric
     
  8. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    oooh....shiny!!
     
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  9. erix

    erix Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

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    Oh man that looks cool!
     
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  10. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Nut making time. I use unbleached bone for all build unless someone asks for something else. Then I use unbleached bone. Now where is my neighbors leg I had laying around?

    I measure my slot thickness with a digital caliper. Then double stick a nut blank in my thicknessing jig I threw together a few years ago. Set it in the ROSS and start turning the knob to thin it down. I check it every once in a while with the caliper stem. Once close I use the neck slot until a nice fit. Only takes a couple minutes.

    All my slots are radiused because, well, I'm too lazy to flatten them. To get the nut bottom carved correctly, inset it slightly in the slot and draw a line along the top of the fretboard. Over to the spindle sander and sand it down to the line. Wahala, it now sets fully in the slot.

    To cut my nut down in height, I use a pencil half sanded off. I ran across the idea from someone on the site years ago. Just let the pencil ride the top of the frets and mark it. I have figured out over the years, cutting the nut down just above the line is just about right for final height. If I ever have to change pencils I'm screwed. Over to the ROSS to sand it down to height and ready for nut slots.

    You know the drill. Mark the edges and then use the spacer ruler to mark the rest. I like my outside spaces about .14" from the edge. Why? Heck if I know. I just do so that's what they are. Then on to the nut files. I usually rough file mine to about .030" above the fret line until I finish it out later. Once I round the corners, it's usually close enough that I go ahead and put a couple drops of tite bond on the bottom and glue it in to finish it out later.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Eric
     
  11. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Fitting the neck in the pocket after everything is buffed.

    Have an extra set of Schaller lockers laying around that I'm throwing in it. I use them on 99% of my builds unless requested otherwise. Just can't keep myself from the quality of them.

    Liking the walnut fretboard with a little lemon oil on it! [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Eric
     
  12. rscalzi

    rscalzi Tele-Holic

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    That really looks excellent!
     
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  13. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Seems like I'm crawling on this! P You would think being in between jobs I could get it done but something about my wife working from home has me occupied doing what someone else wants.

    Some progress on the burl/expoxy rings. Got busy and forgot to get many pics. If they don't turn out no biggie! I can just do chrome or solid epoxy. For some reason I have never made templates of single coil rings for a tele? These will become my template model.

    I have found some wood to be quite fragile to cut the center out for the pup once the periphery has been cut to shape. I cut the center out first using old style daisy chaining holes followed by a wire saw. Then I cut the periphery to general shape and resawed them to about .2". I then used the pups to locate the mounting holes for them and drilled them. With the pups installed in the ring I used the pup to help identify the ring location in the cavity. With blue tape on the body I then marked the ring on the tape to see where I am on the periphery for trimming. I like a little more width on wood rings for strength over pickguard material so I won't do them as narrow as I could.

    I have some epoxy voids to fill, as well as not doing the best on the neck cutout, so I mixed a fresh batch of 30 minute epoxy. I am using the neck pup with a tape layer as a form for the ring cutout. I cut some grooves and indentations in the cutout are so the epoxy would look like it is filling burl spots rather than my sloppiness.

    One note I remember when buffing the body. Nitro with epoxy under it verses epoxy with wood under it can react to buffing heat at different rates. I have found it best not to go to heavy on letting heat build up over epoxy areas or you will end up spot sanding the irregularities caused by it. I have also found that, until it dries a long time, epoxy is not as hard as a wood like walnut and sanding will remove them at a different rate leaving your epoxy low. A layer of snding sealer takes is enough to even it out.

    For pups I am going with my prefered Bill Lawrence's Microcoils. For the reduced cavity depth I like the Schaller Mega switch series. They are 1/8" shorter and not the normal cheap Chinese switch many used for small cavity depth. I love the 5-way Mega Switch M to provide an additional out of phase parallel position. Be warned they seem to have wires going everywhere on them. Their printed circuit board solder locations are a bit tight as well. Despite the look in the pic, the pot solder are well flowed instead of globs. The parallel put of phase is the reason for the extra cap. It is actually for the out of phase parallel position. As noted by Schaller. "The capacitor which is switched in series to the bridge pickup in position 2, improves the sound considerably by avoiding the weakening on the bass end of the sound spectrum usually associated with direct antiparallel mode."

    Oh, and I installed the string ferrules using the traditional method. I use an alignment punch in my drill press to push them in after a little solder gun heat.

    20200521_141220.jpg 20200521_141246.jpg 20200521_172806.jpg 20200521_175200.jpg 20200517_152928.jpg
     
  14. dazzaman

    dazzaman Tele-Afflicted

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    I really like those pickup rings nice shape, particularly for the bridge one which is always goung to be tricky because of the pickup screw positions.

    Feel very free to ignore me, but I wonder what it would be like if the pickup rings had epoxy inlaid where there is the epoxy in the top of the body (as if it was cut for an adjacent slice)? I am not sure I would risk doing it with the rings you have already made, but perhaps make another set and see what you prefer?

    Having read the issues involved with the set you are showing above perhaps I should just hide in a corner...

    Looking great though!
     
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  15. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Thanks dazz! Actually, I had thought of your our idea of aligning the epoxy in the rings with the body. It would have been nice. There were 3 reasons why I didnt. 1- I forgot I was going to do it until I get to far into them. 2- the burl I had left from the build didn't have enough remaining to do two sets and chance messing one up. 3- by now in a build I honeslty get tired of messing with them and just like to get them done so I can get to the next creative envisioned one in my mind!

    Eric
     
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  16. Maricopa

    Maricopa Friend of Leo's

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    Too bad about all the expoxy dulling the Tone! :rolleyes:

    Just kidding! Great build. ;)
     
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  17. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Haha, thankfully I used tone epoxy from the tone epoxy tree!

    Eric
     
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  18. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Doing a little cavity sheilding.

    I use copper tape and overlap the joints. Despite concerns I have often heard, it has never failed to conduct across joints when I test it.

    The pup covers are finished being sprayed with nitro. I like to apply sheilding to the back of them as well. I put a tab of tape extending from the cavity to the top to contact the cover once it is screwed in place. I also go ahead and solder a wire to each cavity and ground them to the pups to tie it all together.

    On another subject, I ended up adding a second magnetic cover removal point. I usually find it best to put the removal point on one end so the removal tool strength doesn't have to overcome the strength of all the cover points at the same time. THe initial one was a little further from an end than I liked but I put it their to avoid hitting the back of the switch. For the 1st time ever doing these, it worked absolutely fine before I put the switch in place. To my surprise, it must be just close enough to the switch to be getting a slight enough magnetic pull to some metal part to no longer work. So, added a location on the other end over a pot and all is good!

    I also realized that every time I look at the bridge cover it has a totally surprised look on its face! Sort of creepy! Not sure I can trust him!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 26, 2020
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  19. John E

    John E Tele-Afflicted

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    That...… is flipping cool
     
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  20. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Every time I see it - that top just looks better and better. Love the pup rings. I did one for the neck pup on my Redwood build. Tricky little beggars to make!
     
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