Electrosocket question

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by NotJoeTelecaster, Feb 28, 2020.

  1. NotJoeTelecaster

    NotJoeTelecaster TDPRI Member

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    I am working on my first build, a jazz master body with all tele hardware. I ordered the body ruff finished and routed so a jack socket hole is already there. I have an electrosocket to install but am really hoping to flush mount it in the existing hole.
    Does anyone have any good ideas on how to go about flush mounting it?
    If I were drilling the hole in the first place it would be easy as I could drill the larger opening first then come back with a smaller bit to finish the hole, but now I have no center point.
    My current thought is to scribe around the jack socket with a sharp knife and carefully clean it out, but I am open to any ideas before starting on it.
     
  2. richbike

    richbike TDPRI Member

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    Get a step drill?
     
  3. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    If you can find an appropriate step drill, then that's what I would do. If you can't, I wouldn't chance it. Too many opportunities for things to go south. The payoff isn't worth the risk IMHO.
     
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  4. NotJoeTelecaster

    NotJoeTelecaster TDPRI Member

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    That's a good suggestion. I will look into a step drill bit. If I am not confident I can do a clean job then I am not chancing anything.
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Last edited: Feb 28, 2020
  6. milocj

    milocj Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    You could also buy a dowel (pretty sure the correct diameter is available), put a chamfer on one edge that will prevent rotation, push it through the hole until it makes contact inside the cavity and then cut it to length so it will be flush or slightly below the surface. Mark or pre-drill the center and then you can install the removable plug to use for drilling your counterbore.
     
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  7. Old Deaf Roadie

    Old Deaf Roadie Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Following is what I did in the absence of having a proper size piloted counterbore at my disposal:

    Size the basic hole with a step drill.
    Then, trace an outline of the electro socket around that hole.
    Then, go at it gently and slowly with a Dremel cut-off wheel to carve the recess using primarily the edge of the wheel, but attacking from above with some side loading, shaving it out. This will allow some control in producing a clean finished edge and a good radius for the recess.

    The proper counterbore to do this task is available from MSC Industrial Supply.
     
  8. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Step drill works fine. I don't use them often, so opted for two inexpensive ones from Harbor Freight.
     
  9. Steve Holt

    Steve Holt Tele-Afflicted

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    If I was hodge podging this thing together in my shop this is what I would try. Since I always forget about step drills.

    Put a 7/8" (or whatever size hole your body is) drill bit in the hole that's drilled, line up the body on your drill press and put the drill bit in the chuck, clamp it all down so that the body is fixed in that position, take out the drill bit, put in a slightly larger drill bit, or better yet forster, and you should be centered and ready to go. Definitely practice first though knowing me I would just shoot for it in one try.

    May not work at all, may work perfectly. No clue, but that's what my brain conjured up to solve that problem.
     
  10. NotJoeTelecaster

    NotJoeTelecaster TDPRI Member

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    This is another option I have considered
     
  11. tfarny

    tfarny Friend of Leo's

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    This is what I would do. Actually, I wouldn't bother, and if I didn't have a drill press I definitely wouldn't attempt it.
     
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  12. Peegoo

    Peegoo Tele-Afflicted

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    Forstner bit in a drill press; it's deadly accurate.

    If you have no drill press to clamp the body to, you can still do it by hand, but you have to make a guide for the bit.

    Use the Forstner bit to drill a hole in 1/4" thick material (Masonite, hardwood, etc.), and securely clamp this guide to the body, with the guide's hole centered over the existing 7/8" hole. With the bit in your hand drill, place the bit into the guide before you start the motor. Slowly start the drill motor and use moderate pressure, paying attention to the orientation of the drill to keep it on axis with the 7/8" bore in the body.

    This drill guide technique works for regular twist drills too, when you need to drill a counterbore on an existing smaller hole. It keeps the bit centered. It's also super handy when relocating a hole for a mounting screw for guitar hardware when you need to nudge a screw hole less than the diameter of the screw.

    This is a Forstner bit:
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  14. eallen

    eallen Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    +1. Couple variations of the concept possible but it works.

    Eric
     
  15. DesmoDog

    DesmoDog Tele-Afflicted

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    Leave the wood and take the edge off the electrosocket? That;s what I decided I'd do next after I faced this on a build. That assumes it fits th ehole well. And I have metal lathe sitting next to my bench so it wouldn't have been a big deal to do...
     
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  16. Peegoo

    Peegoo Tele-Afflicted

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    You could also do that on a drill press or even a hand drill motor by sticking a 5/16" bolt through the Electrosocket and securing it with a nut (pad it to prevent marring the metal).

    Chuck that into the drill press and spin it, and hold a file against the rim to take it down flush.
     
  17. NotJoeTelecaster

    NotJoeTelecaster TDPRI Member

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    Now that's thinking outside the box. I never would have thought to remove the lip and yet that seems like the easiest solution
     
  18. telepraise

    telepraise Tele-Holic

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    how about a binding rabbeting bit in a small router?
     
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