Earvana Nut - Fluff or Function?

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PJ55

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Wondering if anyone has used the Earvana nut. If so, does it help you get a finer intonation on your Tele set-up? Have a project that I'm at the neck stage on. Thx!
 

Rob DiStefano

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IMHO, to a large degree, fluff. The Buzz Feiten system/nut is much better, but again, IMHO, shelf nuts aren't going to help the vast majority of guitarists. I've found the Buzz system can help guitarists with perfect pitch, or those poor souls that must compete in a band with a keyboardist. YMMV.
 

mos6581

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I bought one recently and I say it works. However, I've never had a fancy bone nut so I can only compare it to the poorly cut stock nut on my lite ash telecaster and precut tusq. Tusq was actually fine, but I still had problems with some chords. I had my doubts about the earvana too, but it works for me and the material doesn't seem to be as bad as some might say. Way harder than the stock nut was. But anyway, I'm happy with the earvana nut + glendale saddles combination.
 

telemania

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I put one on my partscaster. It has a 6 saddle bridge which is also compensating.... I am 50/50 on Earvana. I play Melancon strats and they use the Feiten system without calling it that and I am very pleased with those guitars. After playing for a few years on the tele, I may be taking it in for a tune up because I do notice slight intonation problems playing triads up and down the neck.

Put it this way, it certainly does not DETRACT from proper intonation across the fretboard. As for tone, no problem. If you don't mind spending $30 for a nut instead of $15 - go for it. I think my slight intonation problem has more to do with the bridge and a nice fret dressing than it does with the nut.
 

PJ55

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By reading the Buzz Feiten website, it would seem that a 6-saddle bridge would be required, rather than 3, since the nut adjusts each string? Maybe 3-saddle compensated is not exact enough to get the benefit from the Buzz system, but I'm not sure.
 

PhatTele

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I like the Earvana nut. I think it works. I've used them in a few guitars. However, it won't fix the intonation issues you find with a vintage style three saddle Tele bridge. I think the Earvana nut is supposed to work in conjunction with compensated saddles or 6 six saddle bridge setups.

All that being said, I think a properly cut bone nut sounds better.
 

magicguitar

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To me it seems that the Earvana nut would only work or have an affect on OPEN strings. After that each of the fretted strings would still have the same old relative distance from the fret to the saddle. OR am I missing something here?
 

Topper

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To me it seems that the Earvana nut would only work or have an affect on OPEN strings. After that each of the fretted strings would still have the same old relative distance from the fret to the saddle. OR am I missing something here?

What you are missing is that the tension of each string is altered from the tension that would exist with the regular nut. Typically, a compensated nut shortens the string slightly. Thus you have less tension in the string (short-scale = less tension). This persists whether or not the string is fretted, and is in fact the reason that a compensated nut plays less sharp on the lower frets (close to the nut). In other words, the first fret hasn't moved, but the string has slightly lower tension, so the fretted note is slightly flat from where it was. This is the point since the uncompensated-nut-fretted note is typically a little sharp near the nut.
 

robt57

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I tried one on a Korean Hamer with SD PUPS and new pots etc.

And not sure other than the scrutiny of listening and convincing myself it made a difference that it actually did.

I would say, for studio work it could be a benefit over live. Especially for loud live.
 

Topper

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If it really worked wouldnt all guitars makers be using it?

It does really work. You can verify that with a Peterson strobe. Most don't use it because, IMHO:

1. Tradition and existing tooling.
2. It is more trouble to make and install, aftermarket, although a lot of good luthiers offer the BF shelf nut.
3. With a good well made and adjusted traditional nut, the differences are only 3 or 4 cents sharp anyway, assuming the nut is installed at the exact theoretical location.
4. Most guitarists have gotten used to the sound of the cowboy chords being slightly off - its the first thing you learn, and its OK as long as you are not needing to match pitch with a keyboard, for example.

I have 1 guitar with a compensated nut. It was horrible without it. I have 2 others that don't seem to need it, for whatever reason. YMMV.
 

woodman

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mine makes a definite difference in the cowboy chords, that was evident right away. haven't been playing it but a month, so i'm still feeling it out as far as other possible benefits.
 

klasaine

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I found it to be good solution to a specific problem "I" was having.

I gig in a band that features two bagpipe players (don't ask - that's for another thread). For all intents and purposes they play in Bb (mixo-lydian if you're keeping score) Cm and Eb. I capo almost the whole gig at the 1st fret so I can still get the 'open string' and classic R&R sounds.
I do play two tunes un-capoed (no pipes).
Instead of resorting to two axes I had my tech intonate that particular guitar with the capo ON at the 1st fret and then compensate as best as he could, the open string - un-capoed - intonation utilizing the Earvana nuts ability to move forward or backward.
It works pretty well. Not perfect, but I can capo and un-capo without having to really do anything but give a little yank on my low E and G strings.
The guitar by the way is a Heritage LP and my capo is a Shubbs (any version).
 

Topper

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Does a zero fret sort of accomplish the same thing that a shelf nut does?

If you mean the zero fret like on a Gretsch, I don't think so. Chet Atkins asked Gretsch to put a zero fret on his guitar so that the open strings had the same sort of tone as the fretted notes (so the story goes). If a zero fret is put at the exact theoretical distance that the regular nut would be, it would act like just like a regular nut as far as being uncompensated. If you put it a little closer (1/32 to 1/16 inch or so, this varies) to the bridge it would act like a shelf nut. The shelf nut's primary job is to shorten the scale by a slight amount, while leaving the fret-to-bridge distances the same.
 

PJ55

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RobDiStefano....thanks for the input. Hey, wondering, this fellow in the big-room, has a '66 Tele that, over the years, he's put some
"custom" edge profiling on. And he's looking for advice on how to return the body to stock dimensions. Maybe you can help him. Looks like you're much more of an expert than I am. It's the post on "Advice Restoring a '66 Tele." He's been kicking ideas around on how to approach the woodworking side of the project. And, I thought you (or some of the other active posters) might be able to help.
 

mos6581

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If it really worked wouldnt all guitars makers be using it?
Well, compensated saddles do work (atleast the better ones), yet fender still keeps putting straight saddles to their axes. I don't know about you, but I've never ever played a telecaster with straight saddles that was in tune all the way through the neck. Go figure. I'm with Topper about the reasons why earvana isn't so popular. Tradition, players used to the slighty off chords etc.
 

maiga

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I've got one, and I quite like it.

I'm not so 'nuts' about it as the friend on whose recommendation I bought one, but I think it makes a difference. Or it would if I was any good at playing the guitar!
 
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