srolfeca
Tele-Meister
Bruce’s Mission PT’s are wound that way- a pragmatic approach to modern AC power distribution.As previously noted, capacitors are +/- 20% at best, resistors +/- 10%, and parts were subject to availability and price, and there was no "one" transformer to rule them all. Also, the carbon composition resistors used in the 1950s are notorious for drift. Add to that that household voltage back then was <115V and today is >120V, and the B+ voltages can vary as well. Leo was notorious for making in-process changes, leading the VP/GM Forrest White to put a stop to that emphatically when techs couldn't get voltages to spec because Leo made a change.
Some kits and clones use a 12AY7 as V1, some use a 12AX7. These will sound different.
All 5E3 amps suffer from the same symptoms of: noisy; poor grounding; uneven frequency response (lows 2x highs); short power tube life due to 96% bias; and early cutoff distortion.
Several of these can be easily fixed with simple tweaks that don't alter the famous 5E3 'sound'.
When I build a 5E3, I use some MIL-Spec 1% resistors; most are 5%, and I don't use carbon comp. I also measure every cap and resistor for values before and after soldering them to the board, and use high temp/high voltage MIL-Spec wire and cable.
Back to the B+ thingy and so-called "period correct transformers." I call it "marketing BS". A "period correct transformer" would be one designed for 110VAC input and B+ in the low 300s. Plug that baby into your 122VAC outlet and your B+ will be way too high. What you want is a tranny designed for 120VAC input and about 330-ish VDC on the plates. A modern 5E3 tranny will likely see closer to 400V, as srolfeca noted above. Every 12AX7 triode, 6V6 pentode, 5E3 power and output transformer will have slightly different behavioral characteristics.
To get a modern-built 5E3, use proper grounding techniques (reduces hum 50% or greater), a 12AY7 or 12AX7 with no cathode bypass on V2a, 470Ω/2W screen grid resistors, larger cathode resistor on 6V6s (<90%), proper 5Y3GT, proper standby switch, reduce the stage 1 coupling caps from 0.1µF to something a bit more reasonable, such as 0.02µF (YMMV). The result is a 5E3 that has reduced hum, no 'farting out', longer tube life and doesn't go into cutoff distortion at Volume 2, but more like 4 to 6.
I also used a Hoffman eyelet board instead of the period correct eyelet board.
Aside from being nicer to build on, Hoffman’s careful rearrangement of a few component locations reduces the amount of power supply hum, without changing the overdrive characteristics and other factors that we value. My 5E3 is almost silent with everything dimed and a guitar plugged into the input.