Early 60's inspired strat build

mjr428

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I got into guitar building mainly because I wanted to learn how to set up my partscaster correctly. With a quick google search, I ended up over here on this forum and realized that maybe I could actually build any guitar that I could ever dream of... I started dreaming up all these different ideas for guitars. Taking a little from this one and mashing it with that one. Long story short, I came to the conclusion that I wasn't really happy with any of "my designs" and what it really was that I liked (and wanted) was the classic old vintage guitars of the 50's and 60's. Not that I have ever played any of those guitars or have any ideas that those old guitars are superior to new ones, but I primarily like them just for aesthetic purposes... the just look cool and are what I think of when I think of electric guitars. Not to say that I don't like some modern guitars, because I do, but I just really dig old Fender, and Gibson guitars. So with that in mind, I've set out to build an old strat using old wood (meaning scraps from pallets/skids). I'm also not one to believe in tone woods so I have no problems using what I can get a hold of. I actually like the idea of re-using or repurposing materials when I can (because I like that I can get free wood). So that's what this build will be. Repurposed pine. The body will be made from a pallet I got from work and the neck will be fashioned from a block that was used for shipping.
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Now the plan was to make a one piece neck (because I've never made one before and I always like to try something new in a build) but my math was off slightly when I was re-sawing the neck blank. So I ended up with a blank at 1" thick. That wasn't going to work as I still needed to plane it. So as these things happen, I quickly had to make a decision to use a different wood for the fret board. I got a piece of something from the scrap pile at a hardwood lumbar yard near my work and cut a piece for the fret board. So that's why I'm going with an early 60's strat instead of a 50's. This guitar will not be an exact replica (for obvious reasons) but I'm really just going for the vibe and feel of an old strat. So I guess an old strat with a twist. And maybe this will inspire someone who doesn't want to or can't spend a lot of money to build something cool on... Full disclosure, I am planning on building a 2nd neck from a piece of maple that I also got from the scrap heap, just in case the pine neck doesn't work out.
 

mjr428

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I cut up the 2x4's and slats to make the body and cap. I'm going to use the cap on the back to avoid the arm contour. This will be painted so shouldn't see any of the transitions to different layers of wood, but I thought capping the back would be the best way to minimize any seams. Here's the obligatory clamp photos
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mjr428

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Also refurbished my router plane jig and flattened the neck blank and fret board.

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Again, I'm not sure what type of wood I'm using for the fret board... it's similar to bolivian rosewood in density and how it splinters, but color and grain not quite the same... maybe some one out there can identify.
 

TheZ

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Very cool! An early 60's Strat is my dream guitar but I'll never be able to afford one. Building one (or having someone build one) to the same specs is the closest I'll get. Good luck and thanks for sharing this!
 

mjr428

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Very cool! An early 60's Strat is my dream guitar but I'll never be able to afford one. Building one (or having someone build one) to the same specs is the closest I'll get. Good luck and thanks for sharing this!
I would say it's probably my favorite too as I prefer a rosewood fretboard. I don't think I could ever spend that much on one guitar even if I could afford it... I mean unless I REALLY could afford it, which more then likely will never happen for me!
 

mjr428

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Like you, I really have a thing for 50s and 60s Fenders and Gibsons. Also like you I enjoy building my own replicas.

Look forward to seeing the build progress.
Thanks! I hope to have it be in the neighborhood of a replica! Maybe one day, I'll go for an accurate replica, but for now I'll settle for the feel/look of... Obviously with my wood choices, it won't be this one.
 

crazydave911

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Thanks! I hope to have it be in the neighborhood of a replica! Maybe one day, I'll go for an accurate replica, but for now I'll settle for the feel/look of... Obviously with my wood choices, it won't be this one.
Believe it or not I saw a guy not long ago that did what I did, ordered one of those $99 GFS Strat kits (pawlonia) for the wood parts. He put NICE alnico pickups AND the original 3 way switch. Not only did it look great (butterscotch blonde no less) it sounded GREAT 😳😳😳😳
 

mjr428

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Finished thicknessing the maple neck blank at Bolivian Rosewood fretboard last night.

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I'm thinking the maple neck will probably win out, but my curiosity has the best of me... I'm going to build that pine neck. Here they are side by side

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Kinda like the looks of the pine, but we'll see how it turns out... it's really light.
 

mjr428

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I was able to make some progress this weekend... I have some templates for a strat, but they are kind of sloppy, so I wanted to make some new ones. But first, I needed to build a jig for my belt sander, as I have no spindle sander or the like.

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This worked pretty well, other then not being able to get into the tight curves. For that, just used some files. Also, cut out and attached the printouts to some 3/4" mdf that I got free from work.
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I have to say that I'm fortunate that I'm able to get a ton of free wood that would otherwise be tossed into the trash... Also, I have access to large format printing. Also got them cut out, but still need to sand to the line...

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...and the body blank planed to thickness.
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I still have more jigs to make, which I don't particularly look forward to, but it needs to be done. I need to make a jig for the truss rod which will be vintage style, so will need to route out the curved slot. Also need to make the fretboard radius jig... going for 7.25" for this one but will also be making one for 9.5" as well as a 12" one. Hopefully I can get all those done correctly, so moving forward builds will progress a little quicker.
 

mjr428

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I made a little more progress this weekend... I was able to get the perimeter of my template sanded to the line and traced it to my body blank. Cut it out last night.

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I also got the cap cut out as well.

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Then I got started on sanding the body blank to the line

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This goes a lot faster when your dealing with 3/4" mdf... even though the pine is not hard, the belt sander doesn't remove a ton of material. I didn't want to get too close to the line when I was cutting with the jigsaw because 1.) it was hard to see the line and 2.) it was causing a lot of splintering, especially when I was cutting across the grain. Also, the blade on my jigsaw was cutting at an angle, fortunately it was bending outward. I will route it to the template next time I get a chance to go out to the shop.

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Book matched end grain...
 

mjr428

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Picked up some more scrap yesterday...

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Thinking there may be an acoustic or two in there... Getting back to the strat, I was able to get the body routed to the template.

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I know, I should cut much closer to the line... But like I said before, the pine was splintering a lot and I didn't want to risk cutting inside the line... it was hard to see. I took my time and made several passes around and I'm happy to report that I had zero tear out.

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Also rough cut the neck...

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Now I need to build a truss rod slot jig for vintage style truss rods...
 

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epizootics

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Not to worry you, but having kept those piths in the final body shape might become a problem down the line. That's where wood is at its most unstable and your body is likely to develop cracks around them over time. And the one closest to the middle is bang on where the trem route and neck pocket will be...

I'd keep going with it as a training piece, but I wouldn't waste time and money finishing it if I were you.
 

mjr428

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Not to worry you, but having kept those piths in the final body shape might become a problem down the line. That's where wood is at its most unstable and your body is likely to develop cracks around them over time. And the one closest to the middle is bang on where the trem route and neck pocket will be...

I'd keep going with it as a training piece, but I wouldn't waste time and money finishing it if I were you.
Not worried, thanks! This is why I love this site, I'm always learning something. I admit, I know little about wood so I appreciate you sharing your insight... I did a google search on piths and I see your point. I assure you, little money will be wasted on this project. This is all for my amusement and to satisfy some curiosities that I have...
 

Bob J

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Really enjoying your build so far! I have an itch for a strat too, we’ll see if I can justify yet another guitar…

It’s nice to see someone else with limited/basic tools making a go of it. And the use of “woods of opportunity”.

Question: what are your (and others) thoughts on the pine neck? I’m intrigued by the thought of something lighter than maple but wondering about stiffness/strength of lighter woods…
 

Bob J

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Bumping this one, based on my thoughts on lighter neck woods. (Probably should start my own thread)

What about western red cedar as a neck wood? I have a bunch I got to build a kayak, but it’s beautiful and light…
 

epizootics

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Not worried, thanks! This is why I love this site, I'm always learning something. I admit, I know little about wood so I appreciate you sharing your insight... I did a google search on piths and I see your point. I assure you, little money will be wasted on this project. This is all for my amusement and to satisfy some curiosities that I have...

I totally respect that. Building a guitar from scratch is a very good way to get acquainted with wood (and every species has its specific quirks!)

Bumping this one, based on my thoughts on lighter neck woods. (Probably should start my own thread)

What about western red cedar as a neck wood? I have a bunch I got to build a kayak, but it’s beautiful and light…

It can be done, but it's a good idea to look at how stiff the wood you want to use is. On the Wood Database, that's expressed as the modulus of elasticity, which is the ratio of force & deformation for a given species (as always, beware of variations, since no two pieces of wood are the same, including two pieces cut from the same tree - the orientation of the cut matters, eg. quarter sawn timber is - usually - stiffer than flat sawn.)

Those figures are only useful when compared to each other. You'll see that the MOE for hard maple (standard for Fender-type necks) is 12.62 GPa ; douglas fir is very close at 12.17 GPa, which makes it a good candidate for necks if you don't mind how easily it dings. Western red cedar has an MOE of 7.66 GPa, which is on the low side and might be too flexible for a guitar neck. Sitka spruce is quite a bit stiffer at 11.03 GPa.

Using a finishing epoxy on those is a good idea and will reduce the dinging. There are a bunch of people here who got good results using softer woods for their necks :)
 
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