I‘ll try a different dye…or leave it as it is.
You realize that DNA and lacquer are very different from oil, right? There are loads of things that are compatible with those solvents. Oil is a very different thing altogether.I‘ve found a concentrated stain that is soluble in denatured alcohol, works in nitro lacquer too. I think I‘ll give it a try
You realize that DNA and lacquer are very different from oil, right? There are loads of things that are compatible with those solvents. Oil is a very different thing altogether.
I've experimented with TruOil quite a bit .
You definitely need a tint or dye or stain that is oil-soluble.
TransTint does not work with TO - it does not dissolve into it and stay in suspension.
Mixol doesn't work with TO either - ditto the above.
Oil-based dyes like Fiebings leather dye will work with TO - it dissolves into it and remains in suspension, although just like any other type of stain, you need to mix it thoroughly each time before using it.
I've had the best results using regular old mineral spirits to thin TO - it blends in perfectly and doesn't dry quite as quickly as naptha.
@stefanhotrod -- What kind of wood is that body? At the 10-coats-of-Tru-Oil stage I have found that maple didn't really darken much, alder got quite brown, and ash is somewhere in between (I'm still putting more coats on that one). But in any case, the more coats, the amber-er it gets. Maybe you just need more coats?
(I thin it with mineral spirits; after it has cured for half a day I am willing to wipe my fingerprints off of it using naphtha but I don't let it stay on long enough to have any other effect on it.)