Dyeing Tru Oil with pigment?

DrASATele

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I‘ll try a different dye…or leave it as it is. ;)

Have you thought to try artist oil paints? Essentially you use the TO (or even wipe on poly) to thin the paint color and you can end up with a semi transparent finish. Depending on the color some maybe more or less opaque, usually if there's a white in the color make up you get semi opaque, if no white then you should be able to get transparent using less color more TO or Poly.
 

stefanhotrod

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I‘ve found a concentrated stain that is soluble in denatured alcohol, works in nitro lacquer too. I think I‘ll give it a try
 

RogerC

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I‘ve found a concentrated stain that is soluble in denatured alcohol, works in nitro lacquer too. I think I‘ll give it a try
You realize that DNA and lacquer are very different from oil, right? There are loads of things that are compatible with those solvents. Oil is a very different thing altogether.
 

stefanhotrod

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You realize that DNA and lacquer are very different from oil, right? There are loads of things that are compatible with those solvents. Oil is a very different thing altogether.

Oil is just one of TO‘s ingredients, ~11% if I‘m right. You don‘t think the ~ 50% paint thinners inside TO will dilute the stain? Dunno if „stain“ is correct for this product, in germany it‘s called „Beize“, made fir dyeing wood.
 

RogerC

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No. It's about 44% oils and 56% mineral paint thinners. Mineral thinners, again, are very different types of solvents from DNA or lacquer solvents.
 

SixShooter

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What is the finish that is already on that body? If it's nitro, you can get a prevail sprayer and tint some lacquer and spray over it. I would then do some additional coats of non-tinted lacquer. I always use Tru oil on my necks but bodies are nitro...

If you must use Tru Oil, another technique is sunlight aging. I did an experiment on this once. In mid summer, 2 weeks out in the sun created a nice amber. This also works with other clear finished like poly and nitro.
 

PapaBeef

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I've never tried tinting or changing the color after the TruOil had already been applied. But I've done a few builds where I've used Keda Wood Dye mixed with water to tint or color the wood before applying the TO finish.
Once it's fully dried I've never had a problem with the TO.
 

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WalthamMoosical

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@stefanhotrod -- What kind of wood is that body? At the 10-coats-of-Tru-Oil stage I have found that maple didn't really darken much, alder got quite brown, and ash is somewhere in between (I'm still putting more coats on that one). But in any case, the more coats, the amber-er it gets. Maybe you just need more coats?

(I thin it with mineral spirits; after it has cured for half a day I am willing to wipe my fingerprints off of it using naphtha but I don't let it stay on long enough to have any other effect on it.)
 
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Boreas

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I know. I‘d like a bit more amber.

View attachment 896469
~ 8 coats, not polished yet. Open pore finish. I‘m happy with the finish so far but I was hoping for a bit more „antiqued lacquer“ look.
View attachment 896471

My $0.02 is that it may be too late to start to add color. Not that you CAN'T, but at this stage, the coats will be so light that I doubt it will change the color much. Not only that, but the color will not be evenly distributed in the depth of the finish. As is starts to wear, the color will come off first, leaving the light showing through. That may look cool, it may not. At this stage, unless you want to remove the existing finish and start over, I would just let it ride. Depending on the pickguard choice, that body should look pretty nice as-is!
 

Tele Plucker

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I've experimented with TruOil quite a bit :).

You definitely need a tint or dye or stain that is oil-soluble.

TransTint does not work with TO - it does not dissolve into it and stay in suspension.

Mixol doesn't work with TO either - ditto the above.

Oil-based dyes like Fiebings leather dye will work with TO - it dissolves into it and remains in suspension, although just like any other type of stain, you need to mix it thoroughly each time before using it.

I've had the best results using regular old mineral spirits to thin TO - it blends in perfectly and doesn't dry quite as quickly as naptha.


.

Old wrench….Nice looking body, would that be swamp ash?

I used TO on a very light hued 1 piece maple T style neck and I am quite surprised how after a few years it naturally looks a darker hue without the yellow you will see on tinted lacquer on maple.
I think a straight TO finish atop your finish would look really good.
Also, my avi is swamp ash with dark grain filler and a dyed finish with many layers of TO finished off with J&J wax rubbed to a matte finish.

Good luck.
 

stefanhotrod

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Thanks for all your input. I‘ve finished a lot of stuff with TO so far and pretty happy with it. This time I was hoping for a bit more amberish look above this vintage blonde base coat- an „aged lacquer“ see-thru effect.

CDB5AE62-A5B2-413D-AC6A-F7C96A7742C4.jpeg


@stefanhotrod -- What kind of wood is that body? At the 10-coats-of-Tru-Oil stage I have found that maple didn't really darken much, alder got quite brown, and ash is somewhere in between (I'm still putting more coats on that one). But in any case, the more coats, the amber-er it gets. Maybe you just need more coats?

(I thin it with mineral spirits; after it has cured for half a day I am willing to wipe my fingerprints off of it using naphtha but I don't let it stay on long enough to have any other effect on it.)

It‘s Swamp Ash.
Maybe you‘re right and it needs just a few more coats to achieve a more intense amber. And yes, of course the TO will darken with time, the UV-idea is also very good. Thanks!
 

EsquireOK

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I know. I‘d like a bit more amber.

View attachment 896469
~ 8 coats, not polished yet. Open pore finish. I‘m happy with the finish so far but I was hoping for a bit more „antiqued lacquer“ look.
View attachment 896471

Tru-Oil gets extremely yellow/orange if you put it on more closely to its intended thickness. 8 coats isn't very far in to the process at all. I'd say you are no more than 1/4 of the way done with that finish.

You thin it with mineral spirits, not naphtha. Naphtha is an extremely fast drying cleaner and fuel, not very well suited to being a finish solvent, due to its very brief working time.

As for the colorings, experiment and find out.

However...as mentioned, Tru-Oil will probably make you happy by itself. It gets up to a very intense warmth if you just keep putting it on. Too much for my taste, actually...which is why I don't like it very much.
 




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