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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by The Crash Cowboy, Apr 4, 2019.
She’ll be Butterscotch Blonde transparent nitro.
As I can see on your image, the jack hole will be a little more to the right.
I think the drill angle is good enough to drill directly from the pickup and the bridge to the control cavity. I need to protect the edge of the pickup cavity though.
From the jack: that’s a very long distance.
The last stuff has arrived. Some parts, Z-Poxy filler, and the nitro lacquer.
My friend wants a vintage Tele jack socket. I read it’s not easy to install without a (expensive Stewmac ... really ??? $ 22,- to install a jack that costs only a few bucks ???) tool. But I guess some bolts, nuts and spacers will do that job ? If not, I have an Electrosocket jack plate waiting. That just needs 2 screws.
Anybody has experience fitting the vintage Tele jack ?
Wishing you well on the drilling. Keep us posted!
Trying to get nails, screws and drillbits going to the right place at an angle always makes me nervous.
I found this, to install the jack cup. Eat you heart out, Stewmac.
That is only slightly more simple than what I used to press in new bearings on a mountain bike wheel...
@The Crash Cowboy
Be really careful drilling those spaces between the pick ups and the cavity. I had a Tele I was going to do the same thing, ended up letting the edge of the bit hit the pick up cut out. Left a nice dimple that was not fixable so a small pick guard had to be used.
One think I have done is drill from the neck pocket, through the pick up cavity into the control cavity. I am not sure your bit is long enough to do that but it sure makes it easier on the angle. Good luck!
I think it’s just a matter of keeping the tool in place and tightening the bolts.
Recommend you drill your wiring holes before you install the jack cup. It doesn't matter unless you decide halfway through the hole that you're going to blow out the back, abort that attempt, and decide to drill through the jack hole. If the planned drilling goes fine then it does not matter if the jack cup is in or out. If you abort, you'll be happier if it's out so you can change plans. Drilling from the the neck pocket, as Preacher mentioned, is a common technique with 6-string Teles but it might not work in this case. The neck pocket corner, lower side of the pickup rout, and the control cavity look like they don't quite line up.
Obviously I am worried about this drilling and you seem to be less so, and I hope that's for a good reason because you are holding this body in your hand and can turn it around and visualize stuff and see what I can't. So, put me out of my misery - go ahead and drill the wiring hole you have planned so I can quit worrying that it's not going to work!
@The Crash Cowboy Enjoying the build so far. Really like the simple grain and basic controls. And the decision to relic as he goes.
If it's not too late, I noticed that you have enough body wood material left over you could make the electronics cover out of matching wood. That grain is very straight and pretty. And there appears to be a piece from near the same edge.
If it is the same wood already and my vision is playing tricks on me please ignore this post... Except the compliment portion...
Oh and ya. The drilling portion does suck doesn't it. Or at least the planning for it. Either way you go there are pitfalls. Take your time and plan it out. You'll do fine.
Test on a piece of plywood with Z-Poxy Resin filler. I sanded the first layer lightly with 400 grit and added a very thin second layer, using an old card.
I will not put it on the guitar yet; first I gotta drill all the holes.
This may be of help; perhaps not. I did a similar but not identical project when converting a Tele guitar body to a Tele bass. (had to move the bridge to the bottom, near the strap button). I needed to get a ground wire to the new bridge location. I used a drill similar to yours and went in through the strap button hole, drilling right up to the pickup cavity. I also drilled straight down where the bridge sits and that hole met up with the long hole up to the pickup. I was able to run a thin wire (truth told, a guitar E string .009) from the bridge to the PUP cavity and over to the volume pot body. As you can imagine, I had to fish the wire up in order to reach where the bridge metal is, but that was not difficult.
My woodworking skills are almost non-existent (soldering - I'm an expert) so I wouldn't tackle a job like this forum thread. However, I'm thoroughly enjoying watching the build progress.
Great build thread @The Crash Cowboy
When I did the pine slab body last year I cheated For tone pots I had a few options like a Noll P-bass preamp,a varitone pot or standard . That allowed me to have a much bigger control cavity so drilling the bridge ground was easy.
Here's a REAL 1976 Fender "Telecaster" Precision Bass in Brown Wash finish. 100% original.
There are re-issue Seth Lover designed PuP's around, which were the only PuP's used on the original and re-issue Telecaster P-Bass models.
In case you didn't know, Fender hired Seth Lover, the inventor of the Humbucker as used by Gibson and the original Epiphone company that Gibson bought, to design these Humbuckers for the "Telecaster Custom" and Telecaster Thinline models and the Telecaster P-Bass.
Below - 1976 Telecaster Precision Bass and 1973 Telecaster Custom with 1 Seth Lover Fender HB and one standard Bridge Single Pole. Thinline models had 2 Fender HB's, this one is a 1968.
Great guitars !
We never intended to ‘copy’ a real Fender, we just want to build a simple bass looking like Dusty Hill’s P-bass. We bought a simple Seymour Duncan bass pup.
I had one of these, a '73 model.