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Dual action trussrod headstock adjustment

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by jhnlfgrn, Oct 31, 2020.

  1. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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    Hi!
    I have built 3 fender style guitars with dual action truss rods but with heel adjustment.
    My plans now to build one with headstock adjustment. The problem is that there is not enough room for the access hole if you make the headstock with the "standard" dimensions. My plan is to offset the headstock 2-3 mm more than standard. But I am concerned about the strength when doing so. I have made a drawing of my plans on a standard template of a fender style neck.

    What do you think? Will it work? Is there any better solution?

    IMG_5107.JPG
     
  2. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I use LMII rods which require a slot 1/4 wide by 3/8 deep. I think the SM rods take a deeper channel. That works fine with a standard fender head configuration. I added a veneer on the head to match the body, that isn't necessary of course


    IMG_4654.JPG

    Here is how I drill the access hole, it does fit perfectly

    IMG_4649.JPG
     
  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  4. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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    My truss rod is 6 mm wide and 9 mm deep witch are slightly smaller than 1/4 and 3/8. link: https://gitarrdelar.se/dragstang-du...139&osCsid=1s0iqkb0gms67t9lriq5p3hrni#gallery

    I my case the center of the allen key will end up 5,5 mm under the fretboard (if I dont turn the truss rod upside down). The allen key is 4 mm. That means the total must be at least 7,5 mm (app 0,295 inch).

    What is the distance between the underside of the fretboard to the flat part of the headstock on your necks?
     
  5. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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  6. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I have done the route style for years and have settled on a 5/16" core bit.
     
  7. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Its a little difficult to measure on the finished guitar but I get 0.320 inch. Remember that I don't build necks to Fender's or anyone else's plans and I intended to use that rod in that fashion from the beginning.

    Also double acting rods usually don't work very well turned upside down (your link wouldn't let me in)

    I'll add that I do the route style on any neck with an angled head and a headstock overlay but on a Fender style neck I want the hole that looks like the way they do it. In the link that Marty gave you I showed how I do angled heads.
     
  8. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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    The rod I use is similar to the one you use so I don't want it upside down. If you get it to 0.32 inch and you haven't had any problem I think I will try to do it like in my drawing. I also use a quarter sawn two piece neck so I think the strength will be enough. Thanks for the info and the links!
     
  9. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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    In some way the route style is simpler. But I want to avoid the little cavity it creates on the headstock.
     
  10. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    You might want to read Yonatan's thread about DA rods that is currently running. You'll see why it won't work upside down. And just make the curve of the head deep enough to clear the access to the adjuster on your particular rod. Drilling that hole is a bit tricky, the bit wants to climb because its hitting wood at an angle - as I recall I made a pretty good starting punch mark.
     
  11. jhnlfgrn

    jhnlfgrn TDPRI Member

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    I think I will do the roundover after I have drilled the hole so I dont have to hit the wood at an angle.
     
  12. ctmullins

    ctmullins Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

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    IMHO, the best solution, for a variety of reasons, is an angled headstock, preferably scarfed.

    [​IMG]
     
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