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Drop-in replacement bridge for Squier Affinity

Discussion in 'Squier Tele Forum' started by knasky, Jan 21, 2021.

  1. knasky

    knasky TDPRI Member

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    C62F9C4B-476F-42F1-AFE9-C071CC037BAF.jpeg It’s 2021 and no one on the planet makes a replacement bridge for the Squier Affinity Tele. I have been online all day, and every solution involves a drill.

    All I want is a solid steel, top-loading, bridge for this guitar that I can install with nothing more than a screwdriver.

    How does this still not exist? The demand is obviously out there, or there wouldn’t be a zillion “bubba mod” posts.

    Anyway, this love this guitar, and all I want to change on it is the awful monkey metal bridge. View attachment 811138
     
    ukepicker likes this.
  2. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Holic

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    Maybe I’m missing something but isn’t this just a modern tele bridge? I have a bullet tele and the bridge on that looks replaceable with any of the modern bridges out there. I haven’t measured it though. Even in worst case, you can replace the saddles.
     
  3. Octorfunk

    Octorfunk Tele-Holic

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    Is there A reason you'renot wanting to drill any new holes? No judgement here,just saying it will really open up your options.
     
  4. Mark617

    Mark617 TDPRI Member

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    Try WD Music, they seem to have what others do not
     
  5. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    I feel your pain! 100%.

    I've owned several affinities - wouldn't mind having another. I've tried Wilkinson's top loader ashtray (requires a drill) and the bubba mod (requires a drill).

    A glendale or Armadillo bridge would be very tempting. (though it's a little funny to think about buying the BSB affinity on local CL right now for $130, then putting a $130 bridge on it. And then $200 worth of electronics. Then there's the tuners. . . )
     
  6. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    Trying to line up a vintage spec or similar bridgeplate with the original’s mounting screw holes is short sighted.

    I recommend looking on eBay for a a Wilkinson or similar top-loadable bridgeplate. Make sure you align the bridge pickup close to where the original was in the routed hole, that’s what matters more than original screw holes. Live with or fill in with wood filler the original screw holes if they show behind the shorter vintage-sized bridgeplate (which is likely).

    Good luck modding!
     
  7. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    Well...... what's the spacing for the mounting screws and strings?
     
  8. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    Which spacing (relative to what other parts of the guitar) of the mounting screws, and of the strings, are you asking about? And for which bridgeplate? I don’t know what Fender’s official specs are, but I have several teles and T-style guitars with different type of bridge plates and my son has an affinity that’s several years old with an original plate, and I could measure some.

    My son’s affinity has the original and somewhat narrow string (between strings) spacing at the nut. Others have somewhat wider spacing.

    Original scale length (25.5” ?) ones should have a length from nut to saddle breakpoint that varies a little for the different strings. I think that should guide you in proper bridgeplate placement and then the mounting screw holes go where needed to suit. If you change the bridgeplate out for one built shorter or longer and with the mounting holes planned by Fender differently placed, you might need to mount with a different screw hole placement.
     
  9. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    But I have to ask, isn't your bridge plate steel? I've not seen pot metal. Magnetic? = Steel
     
  10. TheDavis

    TheDavis Tele-Meister

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    You want to put a Glendale on an Affinity? Wouldn’t the bridge be worth more than the entire guitar at that point? Why not just step up a line in Squier to a CV at that point? Affinity resale plus the money for a Glendale should easily get you a nicer tele.
     
  11. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    On the factory bridgeplate on my son’s affinity:

    The bottom bridgeplate mounting screws are approximately 26 1/2 “ from the nut (where the string ends musically there); and about 2 3/4 “ from the leftmost to the rightmost screw, with one centered between.

    On a Squier Standard Tele I modified to have a through- and top-loadable Fender Pat Pend, vintage spec bridgeplate:

    The bottom bridgeplate mounting screws are about 25 7/8” from the nut, and about 2 1/2” from leftmost to the rightmost, with two between.

    On a Squier Special Tele I modified to have a single coil bridge pickup, and which uses a Joe Barden bridgeplate made similar to vintage spec but to fit a Fender American Standard Tele:

    The bottom bridgeplate mounting screws are about 26 1/8” from the nut and about 2.5” from leftmost to rightmost. I can’t easily tell and forgot whether there are one or two in between. Incidentally, the through holes on an American Standard and this Squier Special and at least some Squier Standards are about 26 13/16” from the nut, so this JB bridgeplate is, albeit somewhat pricey, a good fit for those Squiers!

    Also, the JB bridgeplate is long enough to cover some bottom-most Squier screw holes, and (if through-loaded, freeing up the top loading holes; those holes are usable for modern/centered Fender or Gotoh “6-pack” intonation saddles’ adjustment screws.

    I’ll post some pics of these Teles and their bridge plates in a follow up...
     
  12. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    Pics, as promised:

    1EEBCD9B-AF65-4351-9E6D-051E0244BFA4.jpeg A19B7DC1-205C-40FF-808A-533F1B88B978.jpeg 2170D853-D353-456D-82E7-6EDF71EB3BB9.jpeg 3284B68E-5FE1-4B3D-A670-CF3CFD47B452.jpeg
     
  13. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    The first pic is my son’s affinity. The saddles are the slightly wider ones from either a Fender (from an MIM Standard) or Gotoh, I forget which I used. There was a slight gap with the original affinity saddles, and these solved that and being somewhat longer, also allow more room for the top loaded strings underneath.

    The second pic is my Special with the JB bridgeplate.

    The third and fourth are my Squier Standard. Note that you can hardly see the original mounting screw holes from the Squier bridgeplate. If you do contemplate using a vintage spec bridgeplate on your affinity, you might not have any *noticeable* exposed leftover holes!
     
  14. yegbert

    yegbert Poster Extraordinaire

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    Correction: there are 6 holes just below the Squier Standard’s vintage bridgeplate. They were for the old string through holes. It is a 98 model which had those holes even lower on the body than American Standards or later Squier Standards. They show just slightly, immediately below the D’Addario string ball ends.
     
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