Drop fill polyester body?

I don't know what I'm looking at in that picture but I drop fill catalyzed poly with tinted CA. GluBoost is recommended

https://gluboost.com/

This was dropped off a stage onto gravel, the drop fill was tinted CA (not GluBoost but I would have used it if I had it)





I should have darkened the bare wood with some black, that would have eliminated the little highlights

 

I recently just went through this on a partscaster build with a scratch that resulted from me being in a hurry and the tool slipping (damned trem springs ). If you really look you can still see a hairline in the finish, but you really do need to scan for it and that satisfied me.
Anyway, this is what I did:

1. Clean the channel with rubbing alcohol applied to a microfiber cloth.
   
2. To check if the scratch really does go through to the color coat or not, go ahead and put a small drop of alcohol on top of the scratch. If the scratch disappears when wet, you're good. Blast it off with canned air and make sure that it's thoroughly dry.
   
3. Pick yourself up a rattle can of clear gloss if you don't already have one.
4. Lay the guitar down so the surface with the scratch is flat.
5. Spray a small puddle of the clear onto a piece of clean scrap cardboard and with a sharp toothpick, roll the end of the toothpick in the puddle to get a teeny drop of clear on it.
6. Using the tip of the toothpick, carefully wick the drop of clear into the scratch, spreading it along the crack with the tip of the toothpick until the drop is used. Again, if the scratch seems to disappear under the wet clear that's been wicked in, that's a great sign.
   
7. Repeat along the length of the crack. Check for any spots you might have missed (a headlamp is handy for this) and wick some in there too.
8. Let it dry overnight.
9. Once dry, check if you can still see any of the crack and repeat 5, 6, and 7 as necessary. Again, let it dry for 24 hrs. at least between applications; stop if the clear starts to dry before you're done applying or else it'll get sticky and take on a milky color when you're working it.
10. Take a hole punch and punch out a spot of 800 grit and 1500 grit wet sandpaper. Using a small dab of superglue, glue these spots of paper to the end of a pencil eraser that hasn't been used yet (you want it flat).
11. Put a bit of soapy water in a dish, and starting with the 800, dip the tip in the water and use your new sanding tool to knock down any excess clear on the surface and when you're satisfied with that, finish up with the 1500. You can put a few drops of the water along the crack, make sure to keep it wet.
    
12. Once you're satisfied with the leveling, finish up with a bit of Maguire's Scratch-X or similar on a buffing wheel. I used a cheap set from Home Depot that has denim and soft cotton wheels for a drill arbor; I did an initial buff around the crack with the denim then finished up with the soft cotton. Make sure it stays a bit damp with the rubbing compound and don't run it too fast.
    
13. When you get to a point that you're satisfied with the results from the wheel, switch back to your microfiber cloth and favorite guitar polish and check for any remaining scratches or high spots in the clear.

Right across the center of this image used to be a 2 1/2" long gouge in the top coat that stood out as white against the red, it ran from the trem cavity half way to the strap button; the method I described is how I worked it out last week. You can still just make out part of it if the light hits it just right, which I think I could solve if I ran through another round: