Double Cut build (video content)

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by brandonh, Jul 26, 2019.

  1. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    I was racking up some scraps to make a MDF neck pocket template this morning when I got a little worried about the thickness of the body and the size of the neck pocket. Before I do anything irreversible, I thought I'd throw it out here for some advice. Here's the setup:

    My plans have the neck meeting the flat between the cuts on the top of the body at the 22nd fret. I've got 2-7/8" length from the center of the 22nd fret to the end of the neck heel, and the heel at it's widest is 2.25"

    I have the 2.5° angle carved into the neck heel (ie for a flat bottomed pocket on the body).

    Neck is carved. Because of the way I carved the neck heel, if I wanted to push the neck in any further into the body, I could only go to the 20th fret or so.

    I guess really what it comes down to is this: will an extra 7/8th-inch or so make a difference in stability if I push the neck in further?

    I could:

    1. Stick with the double cut design as drawn, have it meet at the 22nd fret, and trust the Titebond will do its work.

    2. Push the neck in a little further to the 20th or so fret, keep the double cut body shape, and adjust my pickup and bridge placement. Might be a goofy looking DC this way.

    3. Abandon the DC idea and redraw the body to have a little more meat on each side of the neck pocket. I don't have enough neck heel to get me to the 16th or 17th fret like a traditional single cut, so this would be a goofy looking SC.

    I haven't done anything on the body or body appointments, so there's nothing lost if I redesign the body at this stage. I don't need this to be an ideal version of a double cut guitar. I don't feel locked in to any one idea.

    I'm just glad I'm worrying about a guitar and not a hurricane--we're out of the blast zone as of now and we're all prepped for a windy and wet long weekend.
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I think you need to look at SG's and LP DC's and how they changed over time. At first they were hanging out there and eventually they moved them in toward the neck a couple of frets and supported with more of a heel. If you were putting in a neck pickup that would cut into the neck tenon, then I'd maybe be more concerned with joining at fret 19 or 20. A regular LP jr tenon is about 3.25" long for comparison.


    https://www.creamcitymusic.com/1995-gibson-les-paul-special-double-cutaway-wine-red/
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2019
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  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I'm in agreement with Marty - one of the reasons I've never built an SG is that I think the neck heel is a potential problem area (and they have a reputation of being so). I have worked on some short tenon Gibsons and that further enforces my feelings. If I were ever to build an SG style of guitar I would run the tenon as far into the body as I could and I would make it a narrower LP shape so I get some support on the sides.

    One of the questions you should ask yourself is how will you play this guitar. Do you need access to the 22nd fret on both sides of the neck? I have built two double cutaway electric guitars, both 335 styles, and they are played by very good jazz players - they have absolutely no problems navigating the upper reaches of the fretboard.

    IMG_2560.JPG

    IMG_2811.JPG

    It has 22 frets, the neck joint is at 19, but it has lots of support for the tenon
     
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  4. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    For what it is worth, I know you have designed your guitar with some nice cad software but you might also want to buy a set of plans for a 335 or SG or something similar so you can see how the factory did their necks (altho some plans are not very true to the actual instrument).
     
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  5. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Freeman and Marty. I appreciate the advice. Beautiful work on the 335, Freeman.

    Here's what I have at the moment. The blue guidelines show what I have to work with for the neck heel length, with neck meeting body at the 22nd fret. That width is 2-7/8." The dotted arc on the fretboard is a conservative approximation of where my heel carve is.
    Screen Shot 2019-08-31 at 1.00.49 PM.png

    And the same thing with a profile view. (The extension of the body to the right of the rightmost blue guideline represents the upper horn.)
    Screen Shot 2019-08-31 at 1.05.57 PM.png
    When I was drawing up the plans, I was following these SG Jr and DC Jr plans (following blindly, I admit). Both have the full width neck pocket. I am not putting in a neck pickup, so I won't have the pickup route going through the neck / neck tenon.

    Screen Shot 2019-08-31 at 1.14.03 PM.png


    Screen Shot 2019-08-31 at 1.44.53 PM.png


    I have some offcuts from my body blank and from the previous Telecaster project, so I'll probably do some fiddling around on test pieces as I continue to mull it over.
     
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  6. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    That should work fine.
     
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  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    That's pretty much what Gibson is doing. You should be all set.
     
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  8. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    Thanks!
     
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  9. Fred_Garvin

    Fred_Garvin Tele-Holic

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    Very cool build, this is next on my list. As an AI jockey for 30 years it was interesting to watch you work. You must have been good at geometry in school.
     
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  10. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    September is getting away from me without much guitar work, unfortunately. I'm nearly done with my neck. The frets are dressed and the neck is just about dialed in; all that's left is decorative finishing. I have a little bit more detail work to do on the volute and peghead. I did the truss rod cover this morning, and that gave me an idea for a peghead inlay that should be easy to pull off.

    I'm pretty sure my next update will be working on the body, at long last...

     
  11. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    I got home from work yesterday with enough time to wave some power tools around. I need to square up the edges where my jigsaw drifted, but the skew all landed outside of the line, in my favor where I can clean it up.

    I also need to figure out how to get that critical straight line at the neck/body joint. Aesthetics are important! Not sure yet if I want to tackle that with hand tools or power tools...

    My Vimeo account only gives me 500mb/wk, which I burned up on the last video, so I'll have to wait for the clock to flip. Pics for now.

    IMG_0410.jpeg

    IMG_0405.jpeg

    My glue-up had a little gap at the top and bottom of the blank, but after the cut I managed to have a nice, tight joint in the neck pocket and the butt. Dodged a bullet there.
    IMG_0408.jpeg

    Almost looks like a guitar!
     
  12. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    :D:cool:
     
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  13. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    My random shop brain cooked up something like this this week:

    That body came out of nowhere in just a few hours of work --> I don't want this build to be over just yet --> what am I going to do for a pick guard? --> How about a wooden PG! --> why not make my own knobs and adornments, too?

    IMG_0485.jpeg
    IMG_0494.jpeg

    So here's the first draft pickup cover and knob done out of scrap wood. I was running fast just to bash out a proof of concept kind of thing; the next version will have, you know, sanded edges, recessed ears, holes in a straight line, and non-split wood. I probably won't do walnut on walnut, either, don't want that Canadian tuxedo vibe...

    1515175683884-GettyImages-74684761.jpeg
     
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  14. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

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    Clamp (or use the super glue and tape trick) a board on the body spaced so you can run your jig saw base slowly along the board to straighten that line at the end of the neck pocket.The board obviously should be placed parallel to the intended cut line, too. Measure very carefully! Cut slowly and use a sharp, new blade. You can then clean it up with the 80 grit gouge on a block of wood. :)
     
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  15. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    Nice idea! I’ve never had much luck with a jigsaw doing fine work. As nice as this Bosch tool is that I have, the operator is the bigger problem in my case.

    I hemmed and hawed, and then did what I do for dovetails: clamped a straight edge on my line, then and pared away with a freshly-sharpened chisel, making sure the chisel back stayed flat to the straight edge.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
  16. Luthi3rz

    Luthi3rz Tele-Meister

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    I watched your videos. Pretty cool. If you don't mind could you explain to me how you got the
    fret board to line up on the neck? Saw you used pins. But do you use specific measurements?
    Reason I ask is because I've had some trouble with getting it lined up prefect. But I was putting the nails
    in the neck and clipping them off to make a point then pressing the fret board on to make the location holes.
     
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  17. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for looking and for the kind words. There are lots of ways to skin this cat. Here's what I did.

    First, I dimensioned the walnut blank to the final width and length prior to gluing the fretboard. I started with a rectangle hunk of wood, drew a centerline down the length, and routed the truss rod slot. Before I tapered the sides of the neck blank, I used a square to mark a perpendicular line for the nut location. Then I angled the sides. I went with the width of the nut for the top dimension and 2.25" width at the 22nd fret, then carried that angle all the way down to the heel.

    Next, I used a pre-slotted, pre-radiused board from LMII. It came as a rectangle with some excess wood above the nut and below the 22nd fret. I dimensioned the top and bottom to remove this excess and get to final length (that's what I'm doing with the shooting board and block plane at the start of Video 4). I roughly tapered the sides to slightly larger than the neck blank so there would be overhang.

    As far as alignment, I simply lined up the centerline on my fretboard to the centerline on my neck blank, and I lined up the top of my fretboard to the perpendicular line I marked for the nut on the neck blank. Then I used the brads as registration points, glued up the two boards, and finally flush trimmed the overhanging fretboard material with sharp chisels and a block plane.
     
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  18. brandonh

    brandonh Tele-Meister

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    It took me two hours to knock out most of the body, but then two weeks to find time to do the last two-minute job to drill the jack hole.



    Next job is to finalize the neck and glue it to the body. I'll drill the bridge posts and route the pickup cavity once the neck is set. Body weighs 3lb 14oz (1.77kg). Add two pounds for the neck+tuners, another pound for the body hardware and electronics, take away the bridge bushing holes and the pickup cavity, and I'll probably be sitting around 7lbs.
     
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  19. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Good job :)
     
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  20. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    I'm also working on one and just routed out the neck hole. Mine is 2.5" and depending where I glue will join the body at the 21st or 22 1/2 fret.

    It is not quite as tight as I planned. I'll try to shim the tiny gaps with paper-thin slices of wood

    IMG_20191014_083450.jpg IMG_20191014_083455.jpg IMG_20191014_083557.jpg
     
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