ZackyDog
Poster Extraordinaire
Yes, have a professional do it. There's a lot riding on your brakes; there's no margin for error.
Doing the brakes. What are your tips ?
- Thread starter peteb
- Start date
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Yes, have a professional do it. There's a lot riding on your brakes; there's no margin for error.
Pads only. At O’Rielly’s.
I find that they are not difficult to get right. Once they are together, I have had no problems.
I learned something new yesterday. The copper washers used connecting the brake line to the caliper, my preferred location for breaking the brake line, are called crush washers and are only meant to be used once. I had a small leak yesterday at that connection.
I went to O’Reillys to get new washers. On the way I realized that they will not work optimally as intended. I intend to tighten it up and then un tighten for bleeding and then retighten.
So when I was there I got the (hated) bleeder screws as well.
I go home and looked at the bleeder screws. I had not even looked at them on this brake job. I was surprised to find that all four still had a nice hex head to work with. One socket fit then all nicely. Only one backed out with little trouble.
Over night I considered doing it my regular way and hoping the new crush washers make a nice seal.
This morning I feel like doing it right. I will use vise grips to get all of the bleeder screws out.
I will use a little marine grease on the new bleeder screws.
I still don’t look forward to using the bleeder screws.
When I do it my way the brake fluid goes straight down and is easy to collect in a tin.
With the bleeder screws, the fluid shoots out of the bleeder screw and is difficult to collect without making a mess.
I used to put a clear rubber tube over the end of the bleeder screw and collect the fluid in a 22 OZ beer bottle. This brings up bad memories.
I swear those bleeder screws are only good for about one use.
It is almost like the best plan is to plan to replace the bleeder screws at every brake service.
In my experience, brakes never suddenly stop working.
In most all cases a soft brake will precede a no brake.
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when I just do pads, I don't bleed the brakes. No need to. If I mess with calipers, yeah, I'll have to bleed brakes. I bought a cool tool for that... essentially you crack open the bleeder and attach a hose and 'suck' the air out until you get clear, beautiful fluid, close the bleeder and move on. always start passenger rear (unless that is not the farthest from the reservoir.
Also, brake in the pads/rotors correctly. There are directions, follow them and you get much longer life out of your pads. It is not hard to do (well maybe in a super urban area) and you are set.
Also, brake in the pads/rotors correctly. There are directions, follow them and you get much longer life out of your pads. It is not hard to do (well maybe in a super urban area) and you are set.
CB_2005
Tele-Meister
Put wood or blocks under the car to backup your jack. Ideally, jack up the car, put the blocks/wood under, let the jack down so the car is resting on the blocks/wood then use the jack to take some of the pressure. You are vulnerable with your head under the fender removing the bolts in my experience so extra care is needed. Other than that, it is a fairly easy job. I use a large C clamp which I have found useful for many things.
What make and model of vehicle are you working on, Pete?
Because some of these vehicles are finicky about the ABS sensors (and some are not). Sometimes really nice rotors are super inexpensive (I think) and sometimes it is better to clean up the existing rotors - I love to hone the existing rotors on FWD vehicles using the "Hillbilly Lathe" technique but there's other vehicles, if the rotor is close to being out of specifications (in as little as 75,000 miles) you'd be making a mistake not replacing them.
Some vehicles, best to let the juice run out and refill and rebleed the system. Other cases, you can just drop those new pads in there - I replaced the rear pads on three vehicles, all in the same afternoon, and changed out the fluid on another day, according to another schedule. CB is right - C clamps of various sizes are always welcome. Use brake cleaner, and a spray lube on the surfaces where the rotor and the inside of the wheel come together.
I think this post proves the "My solution is to pay someone else to do it" Logic!
The old days weren't so much a problem with small frustrating details.
Jumbotronic
Tele-Holic
I was going to say something about that. The car that made me do my own brakes had that problem, and it was hard to define. If you were aggressive with the brake from the start the brake may glaze. I have never had that problem since.
And, when you get the rotors serviced, it is called turning the rotor.
Agreed.
I never go under a vehicle that is jacked up. Mine is currently on three blocks and the Jack.
I think this post proves the "My solution is to pay someone else to do it" Logic!
Wait to see what happens.
I start off with 8 new crush washers and 4 new bleeder screws.
I switch from a socket to a box wrench and get the second bleeder screw loose. The box wrench is the way to go on these finicky bleeder screws. I get a good purchase on the third but no go. The head on the forth is kind of rounded. I tried the vise grips on the 4th and decided I could make it bad so I quit.
I decided to go with bleeding the brakes with the bleeder screw on two wheels and my method of breaking the brake line at the caliper connection on the other two wheels.
One bleeder screw was new so I greased it and re used it. The other I replaced the old with the new.
Once I started bleeding the brakes, the new bleeder screw proved defective. I tightened it down tight and it still passed fluid like it was completely open. I put the old one back in.
Then I decided to do all four wheels the way I knew worked the best, at the caliper connection. It is fast and it is decisive. There is no question whether it is open or shut. The bolt it big. It never fails.
We start bleeding the brakes in Ernest. I have new crush washers throughout, hand tightened.
Once the brake pumping starts I see that they need to be a little tighter than hand tightened to hold the fluid. My plan was to bleed each wheel and tighten the crush washers once and for all. I would rather replace crush washers the next time than replace the darn bleeder screws.
I am teaching my new wife how to bleed the brakes.
We did one whole cycle. It is important to start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and work towards it. We did that. I topped off the resovoir between each wheel.
After one cycle the brake pedal felt way to squishy.
After the second cycle the same.
After the third and fourth cycles the same.
I stop.
I put fresh newspapers under each wheel. No drips. Not even when the brakes are pumped. I put the car in drive. The brakes may feel squishy, but they do stop the wheels while the car is in drive. Maybe I will road test it.
I have been through this before. If I put the car down and drive it and the brakes are still squishy, the only solution is more bleeding. More correct bleeding. And lifting the car up again which is a major pita.
Then I check the brake pedal again. It is hard.
I think it is good but I will not know for sure until I road test it.
Wish me luck.
I switch from a socket to a box wrench and get the second bleeder screw loose. The box wrench is the way to go on these finicky bleeder screws. I get a good purchase on the third but no go. The head on the forth is kind of rounded. I tried the vise grips on the 4th and decided I could make it bad so I quit.
I decided to go with bleeding the brakes with the bleeder screw on two wheels and my method of breaking the brake line at the caliper connection on the other two wheels.
One bleeder screw was new so I greased it and re used it. The other I replaced the old with the new.
Once I started bleeding the brakes, the new bleeder screw proved defective. I tightened it down tight and it still passed fluid like it was completely open. I put the old one back in.
Then I decided to do all four wheels the way I knew worked the best, at the caliper connection. It is fast and it is decisive. There is no question whether it is open or shut. The bolt it big. It never fails.
We start bleeding the brakes in Ernest. I have new crush washers throughout, hand tightened.
Once the brake pumping starts I see that they need to be a little tighter than hand tightened to hold the fluid. My plan was to bleed each wheel and tighten the crush washers once and for all. I would rather replace crush washers the next time than replace the darn bleeder screws.
I am teaching my new wife how to bleed the brakes.
We did one whole cycle. It is important to start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and work towards it. We did that. I topped off the resovoir between each wheel.
After one cycle the brake pedal felt way to squishy.
After the second cycle the same.
After the third and fourth cycles the same.
I stop.
I put fresh newspapers under each wheel. No drips. Not even when the brakes are pumped. I put the car in drive. The brakes may feel squishy, but they do stop the wheels while the car is in drive. Maybe I will road test it.
I have been through this before. If I put the car down and drive it and the brakes are still squishy, the only solution is more bleeding. More correct bleeding. And lifting the car up again which is a major pita.
Then I check the brake pedal again. It is hard.
I think it is good but I will not know for sure until I road test it.
Wish me luck.
if you aren't replacing a caliper, you don't need to bleed the brakes. The system has remained closed. If you have a leak, well, you gotta fix that, but if the system isn't leaking and you have a firm pedal once you replace pads and break in the brakes, you are good.
The break in procedure on my truck is: go to country road (uncrowded) accelerate to 40 mph, press brakes firmly and come to a complete stop as quickly as possible, release brakes, repeat 4 more times. You should be able to 'SMELL' brakes.
Once you have done that, you should have a strong pedal, even braking and be ready for the road.
buster poser
Doctor of Teleocity
Bleeder is deffo a worthwhile investment if you ever do rotors, and second the advice to bed-in the pads. Good reference here, and somewhat related, Dave Z (absolutely super guy) also used to have a great read on why "warped rotors" is nonsense; many places on the internet now feature the same info.
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brakeperformance.com
I will definitely try that next time. That concept is in my mind. I feel like I have had that as ideal, but it seems easier to get the brakes apart in the first place if the brake line is open.
Thanks to all that have suggested this.
I rushed the bleeding.
I had a need to get the car back in service earlier than I had expected.
The brakes are functional but there is too much softness.
I am going to use it as is today to drive my mom home from her doctor appointment.
Then I need to lift it and do more bleeding.
I looked into that yesterday.
There are different thoughts on how to do the brake pumping.
I just have the person pump the brakes constantly during the time that I open the brake line.
I did read that it takes multiple times. That is what I have found.
That should do it.
Thank you all.
I had a need to get the car back in service earlier than I had expected.
The brakes are functional but there is too much softness.
I am going to use it as is today to drive my mom home from her doctor appointment.
Then I need to lift it and do more bleeding.
I looked into that yesterday.
There are different thoughts on how to do the brake pumping.
I just have the person pump the brakes constantly during the time that I open the brake line.
I did read that it takes multiple times. That is what I have found.
That should do it.
Thank you all.
https://www.amazon.com/WowDIY-Brake-Caliper-Compression-Tool/dp/B0F2SCP92C/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=1H1WHJW55WM31&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FU7zEK5SEuVJK5wQV9E95sdFdjXI2axF7zLMryGw1uLB5C207co79f6vGlZX3_MqssiI1Wa1eI3APrfGLsvquUrIBQ1g_Q9dHDYvyd8Booth88AJzwuEj9mCpUu4OGM8XPUF8xqtQXMqB0ihFGejXjY6_FKURuZJqYWehfpdqU7HXzLPr8SkvXnx38Lvek18MD0rt8Nzi2-rCsZYeVjnwx971Dceur6yp9ZOeApLw9mUrB9rtJpNzLwOjLY5nmed9PnMfycOhZV3tpfuAHRCnZ3HfB0sp2qX6H5HUNjB0c4.vzTd2OaSC1c1otkpRmqirwC7vxkG_InYFiX9NADkvJM&dib_tag=se&keywords=brake+caliper+compression+tool&qid=1752592281&sprefix=brake+caliper,aps,222&sr=8-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
here are a couple of things that can make your life much easier.... the hooks are for your calipers to hang on... which is nice, the other doohickey, compresses your calipers (which, on the other end, at the reservoir, you can either remove a little brake fluid (like 2 oz) and then when you compress, it will fill the reservoir... and not spill over (which can happen if you don't prepare) the compression tool makes removing and installing your new pads a breeze.
we used to use c clamps or trying to leverage with a large screwdriver, but, hey, the groovy tool is cheap and easy and it works. I have the ratcheting style, but I think these look righteous... the key is 'easy'.
when you do have to bleed, you might look at one of the cool kits that allow you to 'suck' so you don't have to pump the brakes at all... you draw fluid to the caliper from the caliper rather than pushing it to the caliper... making it a one man job. On my heavy use vehicles, like my truck, every 5 years or so, I replace the brake fluid (lots of mtn braking, with heavy loads, boiling the brake fluid etc) by sucking it out and replacing with new... again, like a 30.00 tool and makes life so nice.
I bought a 2019 4Runner with 82,000 miles on it, from the dealer that sold it new, all service done at that dealer, including all new rotors and pads all around. End of May, 2024.Yes, have a professional do it. There's a lot riding on your brakes; there's no margin for error.
These suckers apparently could not get the retention screw out in one piece (all four rotors) and so when I went to rotate the tires later, I find the rotors are not held in place by anything other than the 6 nuts that hold the wheels on the hub assemblies. That's right - all four were just sheared off. Why didn't they extract what was left of the fastener and install new retention screws? - and by the way, this vehicle never made it north of Knoxville at that time; no salt.
I sure hope there's some margin for error here somewhere, because the "professionals" may be anything but professional. If you know what you're doing, have the tools and a nice place to work, and still don't mind doing this work ---- do it yourself. Because no matter how much or how little you paid, the lives of these "pros" are not at stake - yours is. Don't fool yourself.
I'm a pretty fair auto mechanic, and an even better motorcycle mechanic.
But there are some jobs that I have become comfortable allowing the professional shops to do.
Anything to do with the transmission.
Routine oil and filter change.
Brakes.
There's a shop here on University Drive called Budget Brakes.
They do an excellent job, and they are honest & dependable.
But there are some jobs that I have become comfortable allowing the professional shops to do.
Anything to do with the transmission.
Routine oil and filter change.
Brakes.
There's a shop here on University Drive called Budget Brakes.
They do an excellent job, and they are honest & dependable.
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