Does shielding really work?

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Rob J, May 29, 2019.

  1. BILL-NOW

    BILL-NOW TDPRI Member

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    Also make sure that the copper tape uses conductive adhesive; some really cheap copper tape uses non-conductive adhesive.
     
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  2. DavidP

    DavidP Friend of Leo's

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    Looking at your pic, there's pretty thorough coverage of the cavity and P/G and enough overlap onto the body surface for continuity between the two. FWIW, I always apply a dab of solder to the joint between each separate copper piece to ensure continuity overall rather than rely on conductive adhesive backing, and also spot check continuity from the furthest points in the cavity. You really want a Faraday cage inside that cavity!!
     
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  3. chris m.

    chris m. Poster Extraordinaire

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    continuity checks make sense. A Faraday cage works with just mesh, as shown in this photo, so it actually shouldn't matter if there are a few holes here and there in your shielding as long as it forms a complete shell around your electronics. One place it really can't is the pickups themselves, hence the shielding is never perfect, but it should make a big difference.

    upload_2019-5-29_15-44-42.jpeg
     
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  4. JL_LI

    JL_LI Friend of Leo's

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    Your problem may have nothing to do with your guitar. It may be your cable. I’m convinced that there was a source of RF leakage in a neighboring house. I picked up hum if my cable was held vertically that was greatly reduced with the cable draped across the floor. A Fender Custom Shop cable was better than a store brand, but not much. The hum was worse with a guitar plugged in. Humbuckers did not add to the problem but they didn’t eliminate it either. Fortunately the solution was pretty simple (and no, I didn’t torch the neighbor’s house). I bought a Mogami Gold cable. Problem solved. No RF hum. The Mogami Gold cable can’t eliminate 60 cycle hum. That was solved with VN pickups in my Strat and N4’s in my Tele. Now if I could only get rid of the small bit of tube amp hiss from my Express 5:25, the only noise source left would be me. :oops::D:lol:
     
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  5. TimTam

    TimTam Tele-Holic

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    Install the output jack / plate. Measure the continuity between the jack rim and the farthest point in the neck pickup cavity shielding. Until you verify that you have no way of knowing if your cavities are all really electrically shielded.
     
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  6. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    after reading some articles from Bill Lawrence about the effects off copper and alu to shielding i came to the conclusion that you have to use both materials.
    http://billlawrence.com/Pages/All_About_Tone.htm/TeleLovers.htm
    http://billlawrence.com/Pages/Pickupology/External Interference.htm

    alu has effect with tone when its in the neighborhood off the pickups, copper does not.
    alu has the best shielding, even against lightdimmers.

    now i am in the middle off a project to mix both and it looks like this.
    (it is not neat, but because its an experiment i rushed it up a bit)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    shielding surrounding the controlcave with alu, surrounding pickups with copper.
    why the alu strips on the copper?
    because the glue on the copper isn't conductive, the glue on the alu is, all the copper will be connected to the ground.
    i will still use a wire to connect all the pot cases to make sure there is a good ground connection, because i have measured that alu will have some plus Ohm readings from one side of the cave to the other.
     
  7. drmmrr55

    drmmrr55 Tele-Holic

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    All I know is that single coils, and high gain=hum. The more gain, the worse the hum, shielding or not. In my book, if you're playing with a lot of gain, it's really best to use active electronics. Personally, I'm not a big fan of active pickups, however, they ARE very quiet compared to passive pickups, especially when using a lot of gain! Those shredders use them EMG's for a reason
     
  8. EddieLocrian

    EddieLocrian Tele-Afflicted

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    1, turn off strip/tube lights
    2, turn off dimmer lights

    sorted it for me and I have N3 pickups.

    Ok Eddie.
     
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  9. beagle

    beagle Friend of Leo's

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    Computers pollute everything, especially laptops, if the power supply isn't a properly isolated one. Power, computer data and signal cables need to be kept apart. Headphone and guitar cords especially.
     
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  10. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I found half the idle noise reduction in a guitar is the shielding and half is a shielded cable from the volume pot to the jack. Why Fender continues to use a two wire pair is surprising, but like Gibson has the breakaway headstocks, Fender is trapped in two wires providing vintage noise.

    Use an ohm meter to check continuity to everything.

    Next level is sitting in front of a computer recording, pickup covers (like those chrome jobs on Teles and LPs) matter a lot. You can test this by making a temporary 'hat' for your pickup bobbins that you ground to the jack and add and remove them when next to your noise source. Make it temporary and external so you can test. Don't even need strings on the guitar. Don't stick the hat so deep you risk nicking the bobbin wires. If that works you can line the inside of the pickup covers with foil and run grounding tabs out to the pickguard shield.

    .
     
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  11. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    I thought my Jazzmaster sounded a bit different when I put the full-pickguard aluminium shield on it... I liked the results, by the way. I decided I was likely imagining it but perhaps there was a slight difference.

    Probably still imagining it :D
     
  12. The Angry Possum

    The Angry Possum Tele-Meister

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    Yes sometimes it could be simpler than going through all the insulating steps etc. True Story, I had a bad humming issue too. It was such an obseen grounding issue. I changed my guitar cable first, fixed it for me. Try changing your guitar cable.
     
  13. philosofriend

    philosofriend Tele-Holic

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    The electroharmonix hum debugger gets rid of 60 cycle hum and its multiples only (120 Hz, 240 Hz etc.). It does a great job with those, but unfortunately computers can send trash into the signal that is not a multiple of the wall plug frequency.
    The 60 Hz and 120 Hz hums are pretty recognizable, they are a steady buzzing note pretty close to Bb. If that is what you hear, you will be amazed how transparently the EH Hum Debugger kills it. But Computer noise is another kind of beast.
     
  14. Twang Banger

    Twang Banger Tele-Meister

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    Shielding works great for me ... I have 3 Strats that have pure single coil PUs and have no perceptible inherent noise. I use a pick guard shield and copper tape in the cavities. If I get right in front of my mac (about 1-2 feet away) I can get it to hum a little, then right in front of the amp, the same. RF is RF, and it is a fact of life (as any AM radio station engineer whose station is at the tower site!) - but RF is not inherent guitar hum such as what we are shielding to prevent.
     
  15. chris m.

    chris m. Poster Extraordinaire

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    I agree that a shielded cable to jack input is helpful.
     
  16. Danjabellza

    Danjabellza Friend of Leo's

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    If you’re getting hum with noiseless pickups and all that shielding, then your noise may be coming from somewhere else.
     
  17. fender4life

    fender4life Friend of Leo's

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    IMO shielding like most all noise solutions cuts some high end. the better it works the more highs are cut. I find that the case every time with shielding or noiseless pickups. Never tried that suhr thing whos name i don't recall, s i can't speak to that. but i have yet to hear any other noise solution that doesnt cut some high end. some may not hear it. some may like it or feel it's not enough to matter. To me, i hate it and not ony do i not shield my guitars but go as far as to remove any shielding that comes with a guitar. The classic vibes are shielded with cavity paint, and my CV strat is the white one with the aluminum guard. that guard cut noise noticeably and till i put a regular guard on it i'd have sold had that and unshielding the cavity not helped. I unshielded the cavity by removing the wire that grounds the paint and also scraped the paint off the body where it comes up over the edge and makes contact with metal grounded parts like the bridge and control plate. the result is more chime and clarity. When u shield it cuts highs and by doing that some of the high harmonics. Sounds dull to me. Did this to my CV tele too.

    Anyways, others may like the results, i don't. Gotta try it yourself to know.
     
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