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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Dasher, Jun 13, 2015.
Oh, that would look, super cool in shellac and tru-oil.
Beautiful work with those other 2.
Hey, those are REAL nice! This new one's coming along great, too. Love the body shape.
+1. They look really sweet
Stunning work Dasher! Have a play with Minwax Poly-wipe. It's easy to use and I think it glosses up a bit more than Tru-Oil.
Dave do you apply the wipe on poly with sand paper and steel wool, or just a rag and then steel wool in between coats?
Wow .. That's some amazing work
So excited to see this wood take shape. Great work on the others.
Your wood choices are stunning! Great job so far.
Sorry for the late reply, have been off air a bit and not really keeping up to date. The poly wipe I usually just use a cloth, but I have also done Tru-Oil by applying the first 2 or 3 coats with some 320grit + is the grain is a bit deep, seems to act as a bit of a filler. I'm pretty sure the current build will be Poly-wipe maybe just some TO on the fretboard, I don't really shoot for a super gloss finish because they tend to show all the finger marks.
Looking good mate!
If I ever get this thing finished I will hit it with some blonde shellac and then give the wipe on poly a try in the interests of keeping this build different from anything I've done before. I'm still nervous about the set neck on this build.
It's looking awesome! My experience with Shellac is that it takes time to cure to the point of putting a non-alcohol based finish on top of it and poly will seal in gasses... I think Either one would be great - the shellac will likely bring out the depth in that grain more but will take 3-5 days to get to the point of being able to handle once you are done. Wipe on poly takes hours - assuming thin coats on whatever you go with.
I would generally stick to shellac, if I was not using lacquer, because it is easy to remove, but wipe on poly is pretty awesome for getting a great finish with little effort and time needing 0 experience.
I've used wipe on poly to raise the grain with a medium coat, wait a day, then level it with some 220 grit, do about 3 light coats, level with a razor, then do a final coat all with a lint-free rag. The finish is still as light/thin as TO, but dries to hard in less than a day.
I have started the neck with the intention of using Victorian Ash also known here as Tasmanian Oak. Typical with the generic names of Australian timber, it's neither Oak nor Ash!! It's Eucalyptus. Just a different type from the Blackbutt.
Anyway, I've decided on a scarf joint. This will be a thin neck 19mm plus a 6mm board. Dual action rod, Gibson short scale length.
The scarf joint was cut on the table saw. I made a jig which holds the blank. Important to get this square (der, no kidding Sherlock). Once cut, I planned the surfaces to ensure a gap free joint. Glued using the clamps as shown in this sexy clamp photo.
I'm using a Stewmac dual action truss rod. Not much to show but it's fitted.
Because this is going to be a set neck (in a way I've not tried before) the heel will be double thickness and will run right to the end of the neck pickup rout. In the photo you can see the 16th fret marking which is where the neck will join the body. I've also marked the end of the fingerboard as well as the end of the neck. As you can see, enough timber to ensure a strong stable joint.
Thanks Mojo. The reason I wanted to use Shellac is because the top in particular is very figured and I want to bring this out as best I can. I understand the gassing out process with spirit based shellac. Do you think the wipe on poly alone would be good enough to bring out the flame? Maybe all I need is to give the shellac base coat a week to gas out?
I've done french polished finishes before but I want the added protection of a harder finish.
Perhaps just go for a thin shellac finish for the challenge, level and buff that out. Then, level it and put a harder finish on after the challenge. Wipe on poly is not hard enough to really offer much protection unless perhaps someone sprayed on about 10 coats, but then it's about as much work as lacquer...
Unfortunately I have to pull out of this years challenge build.
I'm in the process of moving house which is a complete PITA! The bad news is I wont be able to have my workshop available over the next 6 weeks. The good news is I will have a seriously kick bottom workshop in the new place. It has a third garage which I will dedicate to my shop.
I will put this on hold and post the rest of the build when I get to my new place.
Good luck to everyone
Moving sucks but it sounds like it'll be worth it in the end! I'll subscribe so I can follow the build later.
I feel your pain dash!
I'm waiting to get into my new place I just lucked out that my mother in law is ok with me working in her garage. I think the build is what's kept me sane during the whole selling and then buying process.
Looking forward to seeing this completed!
House shifting is such a pain! I shifted 19 times when I was first married, so I know exactly what a PITA it is. Lotsa Luck!