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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by sjohnbruton, Jun 1, 2012.
This is looking incredible! I've been building a bass like this in my head for a few years now.
I think your build may get me off my rump
Question: When you glued the layers, you only used screws? Did you use any clamps at all?
(You may have solved my "lack-of-clamps" problem )
I see that you have already found material for your pick-guard. I've often wondered how using Formica (available at Lowes) would work....not only as a pick-guard but maybe even as a "finish" for the top.
On a construction side note: I seem to recall a dude over on the Reranch Forums that was doing some cool builds using really thin plywood like one would use for the back of a bookcase, dresser, etc. Can't remember the name...
Looking forward to more
Thanks, glad you like it so far.
My first attempt to face glue the ply panels was unsuccessful. I used some home grown press-type clamps to pressure the ply together. It didn't work out too well... The cauls were not perfectly flat, so they ended up warping the glued up blank pretty noticeably.
I then resorted to some quick research on a wood working forum and got the answer: just screw it! Since the ply core is going to be capped with hardboard, the screw holes were a non-issue. I used 1.5" coarse thread drywall screws. They grip like crazy. Only problem was that they were just a shade too long once they were really tightened down. Next time, I intend to put some effort into finding a screw (1.25" would be great) that won't make an exit wound on the back of the core.
As for your "lack of clamps," that happens to be a malady that almost everyone can claim to be afflicted by. I get clamp envy when I see pics of guitars parts clamped up with so many clamps that you can't even see the work piece!
BTW, the screw trick worked great for the body core, but I will have to clamp the front and back hardboard panels to the core.
I seem to remember seeing a formica topped guitar someplace... Can't recall. I don't see why that wouldn't work though. Give it a shot, then post pics!
I've seen some Dano style builds with all wood, too. They look great and I'm sure they sound killer, but I was intentionally trying to stay closer to the original Dano process.
Thanks for your interest!
I was hoping to glue on the hardboard top and back today, but no luck.
I did, however, make some progress with the pickguard. I used Gimp to filter and resize my mock-up into a line-type image. I then overlayed the new mock-up image on top of the TDowns Rev E blueprint to get positioning and scale correct. Like this:
Then I printed out two letter-size chunks of pickguard, taped them together, and carefully cut out my full sized paper pickguard template!
Now I need to trace it on some 1/4" MDF and sand it to shape.
Progress today! Materials at the ready:
First up: pickguard layout with my paper template. I decided to just go ahead and trace it onto the sign material. I will do an MDF template from the finished product. I figured I should allow for hand fitting before I spend time making a permanent template.
Beware of Dog!!
After rough cutting on the band saw. Sweet!
Two pickguards. Hmmm... Looks like I'm gonna have to make another one...
Next up: Gluing hardboard front and back to the body core. First, I cut some of the excess material from around the hardboard panels.
Glue on the back of the body core.
Put in position and glue applied to the front of the body core.
Lastly, apply all my clamps around the edge and wait. Impatiently...
Is the Dog sign material going to support the pots enough? I'm thinking there might be some flex there, if it's like similar signs I've seen.
I think it's gonna work fine. It is, however, a tiny bit thinner (and more flexible) than the single ply back cover of a Strat tremolo. I'm not gonna worry about it.
I've trashed 3 selector switches and broken one volume pot on my "Old Blue", other than a few scars, my dog sign is still intact (though the screws have been in and out so many times the holes are kinda squashed;and I've lost count of how many toothpicks have been glued in the body holes )
Good to know. Thanks.
Since I'm sooo patient , I took the clamps off this morning before work. It came out great!
One thing is for sure: it's gonna be light! Especially compared to my main two guitars (a Carvin TL-60 neck-through in maple and koa & a mid-eighties Epiphone Genesis is all mahogany).
Maybe I can weigh it later today, but I'm not sure I'll have time. I'm about to go out of town until Sunday.
I forgot to mention earlier that I did a Strato convertible once around 1995. I had scored a real Dano convertible at the flea market and wanted to build something similar but more contemporary. I used pine or poplar for the frame with white shower stall hard board you get at a home center for the top and back. I used fabric store vinyl and contact glued it on the sides. I believe I made my own 3 point bridge with fretwire too. One lipstick pickup, one tone, and one volume. It came out nice but didn't have that stellar a sound. The shower stall stuff wasn't as scratch resistant as the formica was on the dano either.
Large kitty litter containers usually have large areas of plastic for pickguards depending on your needs.
Sounds cool. Got pics? I'd love to see it.
I really like the concept of a Tele body and Danelectro p/ups and guard. Just a question, why do some have soundholes and is the p/up adjustable? I'm not knocking anything, just really curious.
Yes, the pups are adjustable on a Dano. Most of them I have seen adjust from the back. Same idea as Fender, but the screws are on the back...
As for sound holes, just design I guess.
No, After a while it was just another guitar I made, so there isn't much of any record of stuff I built. I was just happy to sell it off and break even. If I recall, I think I used my first paddlehead neck on it.
If he is talking about the "convertible", that was a "hollow body" guitar and sold without the pickup sometimes. You can see it in old sears catalogs. They had metal covers where the screw holes would be.
Here's a pic of one with the top off:
Pretty sharp overlay of your blueprint on op of the TDowns schematic!
What'd you use to do that?
Build looking gooooood
Thanks for the positive energy! It really does help.
I use Gimp (freeware photo manipulation software) to do all that type stuff. It works every bit as well as Photoshop for my needs.
It's not too hard. I isolated the pickguard from my mockup, used an edge-detect filter (which makes all the lines "glow" on a black background), reversed the black/ white of the image, and took away everything except the line itself. Then I imported it on top of the TDowns blueprint, color corrected it to match, and fiddled with it until I got it scaled right. Simple right?
I'm back from the rainiest golf weekend ever. We managed to get two out of three rounds in and ate at some of the best restaurants in Baton Rouge and New Orleans. A great trip by any standard!
So here is where I am: The body after coming out of the clamps.
Looks like I left a bit too much material to safely rout.
So it's off to the band saw to trim her down.
After routing around the sides of both top and bottom, I realized I needed to remove some material from the cutaway area. Nothin' the trusty old hand saw can't handle.
Cut to an acceptable depth and SNAP! Hardboard breaks very easily.
Finished trim routing. It's a little hard to read, but the caliper says 1.718"
A light sanding to clean up the feathery edges of the hardboard and I'm done with this step. Let's take it inside to weigh!
It may not be the lightest guitar ever, but it's on the right track!
Next step: body cavity/ sound hole routing. When I make time...